55Mach1

Can you post few photos showing the fit? Are both of your fenders original? Not ready to sell shaker stuff yet.

I might not be able,to run my shaker any longer and may consider a new repo hood with a boss 429 bolt on scoop Any real feedback on these hoods? Do they need a ton of body work and bondo skims to look good?

Im talking about ditching e mechanical z bar set up or cable set p for a fully hydrallic set up with a mini master cylinder that directly attaches to the firewall where the clutch pedal rod goes through already. To be honest i am happy with the mechanical design and feel and have has newer cars i modified fail many times with the hydralic slave. Only consideration is if i go hydrallic i have much more room for custom long tubes. Post photos if you can

I know everyone does this on a 5 or 6 speed comversion but i havent come across any feedback on guys doing this to a 4 speed. Curious to know the results

I sent a ton of stuff to be powdercoated months back and now that my car is in final assembly parts seem to be missing like eyelets, grommets, clips etc. I need accurate photos of every single component to see what is missing and required to purchas69/70 Toploader

i can not respond as your account wont allow PM

I have everything im flawless condition, the shop building my car has the fold down seat complete listed on ebay go do a search or PM me.

Guys we got the glass out but ita obvious my door was dented somewhere in its life because we had to force the glass out as bending the door back wasnt happening. We did end up chipping the paint very minor not a huge deal because once my car is finished and fine tuned i am having it repainted anyway by the end of this summer

Guys does the door latch ods need to be removed as well? So I will try again tomorrow to get the back of the glass out of the rear of the door. Il report back. Does anyone have photos on pulling glass out so I can see how to orient the glass assembly position

We did n the lower glass plates there is a cast L on each one preventing this assembly from easily sliding up and out. Such a pita. We are going to try again tomorrow. Any tips on which way to get the glass out, does the rear slide out first?

My drivers door has a glue in assembly while my passenger door was bolt in go figure. I am now making the drivers side bolt in. Just having an impossible time getting the glass out since the glued in tracks are glued pretty darn good. The glass is getting hung up on the L shapped stoper on the front and rear part of the glue in tracks We just cant slide the glass out. Any tips i wanted to safely remove it to sell since it is an all original nice assembly.

Curious to know as i recall all my earlier first gen stangs were not except the windshield

Yeah i saw but they dont specify fastback somi wanted to kmow if these parts carry over between body styles, some on ebay are from a Cougar

I need to aquire a drivers side bracket assembly front and rear, the two metal pieces that bolt to the glass itself I see repo kits but i am looking for used originals Are these brackets the same for coupe, fastback and convertible?

Guys can someone post a photo,of,your original quarter glass or comcour correct repo with logo so i can see it. I am not sure if the glass that came with my car has any logo onmthe side glass.

Thanks for posting this link. I def want to explore this now. So did every piece of glass come with the Carlite logo? I have only seen this on windshield and back window never on side glass. Anyone confirm? Also for you guys who bought glass from ECS what was the cost versus the stuff i recieved from NPD?

Can you post contact info for ECS. Did you get glass with date codes and carlite logo? I really would like that

Def not coming off its baked into the glass before tempering i just found out. Does anyone know if you can buy new glass without this logo? I Mean i wouldnt mind an authentic carlite logo,but this is bright white and in a very visible location that it bothers me.

I just got my full assembly from NPD since for the money it made more sense to buy this as a complete unit the quality if beautiful but there is one thing that annoys me that may prevent me from installing this there is a Tempered DOT logo on the glass and i dislike the way it looks. it is not etched but it seems like it was painted pr printed on the glass. do you guys think this can be removed safely with a paint stripper and razor? i know nothing about glass to know what to even try. but if i can not get this off i am sending these back and just buying the glass hoping that it has no markings.

So you mean the glass has to be unbolted from the brackets that attach to the regulator? Last year i pulled the entire glass assembly from one door and it was hell. I basically had to remove everything from inside the door and struggle to get the glass out through the slot because the track brackets kept getting caught. I had no idea that you can leave the brackets still attached to the regulator and simply unbolt the glass pane itself.this sounds much easier

I am heading over some time tomorrow to yank the door glass since i am off from work. The door panels are already removed. The glass is bolt in style I have always had a hard time with door glass on any car i worked on due to lack,of patience and fear of breaking something. Wanted to know what is a good procedure doig this alone or is it best to have a second set of hands? Much appreciated on any tips or tricks

My gripe is the glass itself cost $200 and the complete frame with glass is $119 Im just fraifmifmthe repo frames dont fit right. I know 15 years ago i bought repo vent window frames for my 65 and they fit horrible so i sent them back and coughed up alot of dough to replate my originals My original frames were rechromed as they are flawless I also have not come across the part number for the rubber that holds the glass in place.

I need to replace my glass and have browsed every supplier and see that you can buy just the glass or a fully assembled repo glass and frame assembly which is actually less money. My frame and other parts are in great shape however i want to know if it is worth just buying glass and dealing with the hassel of setting it or just buy a new complete assembly. I have no idea how the glass even comes out safely if it is bonded to the chrome frame or not. I am sure someone on this forum was faced with same decision on glass

will do what the guys at the shop did is they removed the wires from the pins at the plug that goes into the firewall so there wont be any chance of sniped wires being grounded out. good thing I got a JME custom gauge cluster, no indicator lamp for me for a brake failure il keep that for my daily commuter car. it really cleans up the engine bay. i need to snap photos of how i ran my wires it looks super clean and neat.

yes it is a 70, we omitted the purple wires and the harness for the signals in the hood which i honestly never saw on a 70 fastback before. i hope everything else works by omitting these and not that those were wires in series with other stuff inside the car. does anyone know?