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ksquared

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Posts posted by ksquared

  6. Posted · Report reply

    My 69 is a big project for me. Ultimately I want to put disc brakes on the rear and a lot of other stuff I won't cover here. Thing is I need to do what is needed now to get it on the road. Later enhancements come later, so to speak. Otherwise I fear it will take forever to get it rolling. The car has not run for years (probably since the late 80's). I haven't taken a close look yet but the brakes all look like poop. I suspect the pistons are frozen in the calipers. The rotors are quite rusty. I guess what I'm struggling with is do I just replace the front brakes with original single piston calipers & stock rotors or do something like a Wilwood Dynalite 4-piston kit? The Wilwoods will cost about $275 more ($300 vs $575). Forget the multi thousand dollar Baer stuff. Every time I think about something else, I hear a cash register ring :-)

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I have the original factory disc brakes up front. What's the consensus on them? Good enough? Replace with Baer, etc? Car will be a 550hp 428 when done. I don't expect to see much past 100mph but I do enjoy spirited driving at times. I recall that the brakes seemed ok back in the 80's when I last drove it (351W 4v). Cost is certainly a factor. Thoughts?

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Nothing to add about the crank but I suggest you ditch the Edelbrock Performer and get an Edelbrock Performer RPM. I had both in my shop a while back and was curious how they differed. I couldn't get a satisfactory from Edelbrock. My example is for a 351W but I bet the same design is used on the 302. I created the following pic to show the flow paths. See why the RPM is superior? I don't think the Performer flows any better than the factory iron manifold. Yes you'll save a little weight. Like one guy said, "good for a van that never goes past 4500 rpm."

    both.jpg

  11. Posted · Report reply

    My project is finally starting to move. I got my 69 Mach I in May of 1982 for $3,500. It was a 351w 4v with a 4 speed. The 351W is out (going to be a 408 for my 75 Bronco) and a 428 CJ is going in. Yes it's an actual CJ engine. I guess it will be a 428CJ restomod. At first I was going to do the standard 4bbl Holly thing but I caught some kind of bug and ended up with what you see in the following picture.

    Those are Weber 48IDF carbs on a blue thunder manifold. Other parts as follows:
    Moly coated TRW forged pistons
    Shot peened rods
    Moly coated bearings
    Chet Herbert CGH2 solid roller cam .050 Int-Exh: 240/240 - .640 lift
    Morel roller lifters
    Hooker headers
    ARP fasteners
    Crank scraper
    Harland Sharp rockers
    Smith Bros. pushrods
    Canton 7qt oil pan
    FPP oil pump
    Survival Motorsports FElony aluminum heads 2.20" intakes
    Original Ford dual point distributor
    MSD 6AL ignition
    Aluminum radiator
    CVR Proflo Extreme 55 gpm water pump
    ATI damper
    Hurst Competition Plus shifter
    4 speed top loader

    So far my calcs tell me I have the engine weight down from 758lbs to 626lbs. A 129lb savings. My goal is to make the car a very good accellerator and a really good handler. Can't wait to spank some BMW/Porsche/Audi clunkers. I know I won't beat them all but I hope to at least surprise them and maybe even get a little respect (thanks Rodney).

    I think I need to make some kind of checklist to get this car done. Otherwise I fear I'll flop around from one thing to another and take forever to get it done. As things now stand, the body and paint are done and the doors and trunk are installed. The glass is in. The seats are upholstered and the door skins are done but the interior is empty. Here is a list I threw together. Kind of a what to do and in which order list just to get it running. Look reasonable to those who have gone before me?

    1. Clean trunk
    2. Clean interior
    3. Fix door windows
    4. Install door handles
    5. Install door locks
    6. Install trunk lock
    7. Replace gas tank
    8. Replace gas cap
    9. Install tail lights
    10. Install headliner
    11. Install carpet
    12. Replace rear shelf
    13. Install dash/instruments
    14. Install seats
    15. Finish interior
    16. Install headlights
    17. Install grill/bumper/scoop
    18. Install engine/trans

     

    mockup.jpg

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Aha! Wasn't obvious to me. I assume one on each side? This brings up a thought/question. Is there a parts breakdown available somewhere for the Mustang? I remember the parts guys at the dealers used to be able to look up everything on microfiche back in the day. I have several classic Honda motorcycles for which parts pictures & numbers are available on the Internet. Sure makes life easier trying to figure out how stuff goes together.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Well I picked up my Mustang & parts from the shop that closed up. Good news is the body and paint are good. Bad news is almost everything is apart. Looks kinda like a kit with no instructions. I think I have most of the important pieces (stuff hard or expen$ive to get). The upholstery is done. Gonna need a gas cap, door handles, window cranks, carpets & headliner. Probably lots more before it's done. In the process of doing an inventory, I found something not familiar to me. I think I have 3 or 4 of them. Anyone know what it is? Hah, it might not even be for the car. Dunno...

    what.jpg

  22. Posted · Report reply

    I'm approaching a point where I have to decide how to finish my exhaust system. Engine is a moderately warm 428 making hp in the mid 500's with a solid roller. Trans is a 4spd. 90+% street driven with a little autocrossing. Not looking for a quiet Lexus. Don't want the dreaded drone either. Thinking about Magnaflow's or whatever. Question is should I exit out the back or side pipes just ahead of the rear tires? Probably running 2.5 to 3 inch exhaust. Don't know what's available or wise yet. Suggestions? Warnings?

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