prayers1

Yes, I knew that the 69 is dash mounted and the 70 is a steering column mount. However, are the connections into the ignition switch the same, or would it be obviouis that you can't fit a 70 connector into a 69 ign. switch. I would also guess that the 70's style would have a much longer wire bundle going to the ign. switch. Is there anything else you might think opf besides the ignition switch.

I was on such a high this morning, couldn't wait to get to the car and solve my eletrical problem. I first, got access to the Ign. switch and engine harness wires. I found burnt wires at the base of the switch and a telephone wire spliced into the yellow wire at the switch. "I'll have to replace that Ign. switch" I said. I then found the PINK Res. wires and thought this is going to be easy. I then proceded to the fuse panel, pulled everything off and brought it in front of me to work on. Boy, did my mouth drop!!!!! The harness had melted and brunt wires all over. What a way to ruin a great day. SEE PHOTOS. Luckily for me, a few days ago, I bought on eBay a whole dash wire harness, that's suppose to be in very good shape. When I was searching for the headlamp harness I came across it. Should be here in a few days. One thing I'm concerned about, the discription on the eBay selling page said 1969-70 dash harness. Is there a difference between the 2 years if both are NO Tach and NO A/C. How would you tell if it's a 1969?

OK! I haven't seen the Ing. switch as of yet, but in my mind I'm seeing: 1,Wire from © Ign. switch, tie into brown (262), go out of the firewall to (I) on the Solenoid. New wire from © and new wire to (I), should be what gauge? Any in line fuses? 2,Either start at (I) and run a wire to positive side of coil. or, tap into (262) outside of firewall and run to positive side of coil. Use same gauge as above? Questions: 1, What to do with the new wire harness wire (262), that will originate at engine side fuse panel. 2, What do I do if I find a damaged, cut or disconnected green/red wire (904) at the inside of the fuse panel. 3, What do I do if I find partcial brown wire (262), still connected or damaged to inside fuse panel side. I can't say enough of how appreciated I am of everyones time, help, patience and attention to my concern. Thank You! It was very hard for me to explain and understand my own problem, this was a great learning experience. And Thank You as well Mach1Rider!!!!!!!

I believe this is the Non-Tach colored wire diagram.

On the old harness the brown sol. wire came from the engine side fuse panel, through the main trunk, then pass the rad. support and towards the solenoid. I suspect it is the same sequence on the new harness. On the blk/wht dia. the red/green wire from the pos. side of the coil goes to the engine wires. after it by passes the firewall it breaks up into one brown and one pink wire. The brown wire then goes directly to the fuse box. The pink the goes to the key switch, pink for no tach & red/green w/ tach-then it attaches at the C on the key switch. My brown wire from the engine harness inside the the dash has been cut, see photo. I will have to trace from fuse box to see if any brown wire is left? Notice the fuse box photo, I can't confrim it for now since I'm not at the car, but it looks like a green/red wire hanging around and on the diagram it shows that wire going to the key switch C as well. You mentioned: "Start with brown wire on sol, trace it back thru firewall to end. What is it connected to? It should join the red/green wire from the eng harness plug which came from the coils + side inside the main harness" Are you saying, trace the brown wire from the solenoid to the engine side fuse panel, from there go from within the car and locate the fuse panel brown wire, that wire should run to the red/green wire at the coil wire. If you look on the wire diagram the brown wire does not flip over to the same pin location on the opposite side of the fuse box. Is that OK? As noted above, my brown wire has been cut at the engine wire side, I still need to trace it at the fuse panel. Does it require a constant 12v to the coil? Yes, then replace the pink wire with another 14ga wire. Yes, it will require 12v. Do I take a 14ga wire, start at C, then tie into brown wire at engine harness, this will by pass the firewall to the solenoid directly, since I'm using mech gauges, no need for factory engine wires. Will I still have to run a brown wire and a green/red wire to the fuse panel. Boy, this is like studying for an exam. Thanks!!!!!!

Sorry Mach1Rider, I posted before I read your comments. I don't want to sound stupid, but I'm on a learning curve. Also, no tach. When you were talking about the brown wire I thought you were referring to the small cut wire under the dash that ties into the engine coil wire. I now see, that you are referring to the solenoid brown wire. On my vehicle, there is nothing wrong with that wire. You state "If you open the main harness behind the inst cluster, you will find the brown wire and the red/green (which goes to the coil +) wire joined at the end of the pink wire. The other end of the pink wire will change color to red/green near the plug for the ign switch." When I find the brown & red/green wire and if it's still attached, do you want me to remove it from the PINK? I don't know if the PO already done this. Hopefully I'll be going to the car (at another location) and I'll take the panel off and look. Unforunately there is no web access out there so I'm trying to get as much info now as possible. Thank You to all!

I think I figured out the wire harness connector block position. If you turn the 69 HeadLamp Harness page clockwise, you can see that the wires line up with my original connector on the car. So, I'll just follow what I have on my connector instead of the wire diagrams listed above. In regards to my questions regarding the resistence wire & short brown wire to coil wire. I thought it would be important to advise that I will not be running a stock Dist. and would this resistence & brown wire still be needed. I have a Mallory Unilite Distributor and a Mallory Promaster e-coil that has never been used in this car. The dist gets wired like this: Red goes to pos. side of coil, Green goes to neg. side of coil, blk to engine ground. The Key Switch goes to Pos. side of coil. Where is this KEY Switch wire? Does that brown wire "start sol for ign+" have anything to do with this type of ignition. OR How would I get power to the coil? Thank you!

How's this diagram. I can't make heads or tails on the harness install. Someone get me straight before I attempt this project. The headlamp diagram shows the green/red wire on the 2nd row from the top and 1st to the left (10). The Black/white dia shows the green/red at the 4th row left 1st to the left. My harness connect has the green/red at the 1st row 2nd from the rt. Here's the Headlamp harness dia. Now, getting back to 12 volts to the coil. I see in the diagram that the short cut brown wire behind the gromet that feeds the engine wires is part of the coil wire. If I locate the other end where is connects to the main panel, would I be able to splice a wire inbetween to get 12 volts. Whats this about "remove and replace resistor wire from ing switch". Why do that? Also, where is the reststor wire on the dia below. Anyone install a new wire harness anything I should be aware of! Thanks again for all of your HELP!

I made a mistake calling pic #5, 2 into 1, when actually it's 4 wires. One red wire makes a loop back into the plug and the other 2 red wires run together in a black plastic sleeve. Is this the backup / neutral safty wire. Here's a pic of what I'm taliking about. Here's what I think your calling the engine wires. White sheath (red/white stripe) = oil White wire = water Red/light blue stripe = Positive side of coil Any tips on installing the harness connection at the firewall. Here's the diagram I'm trying to follow

Mach1Rider, You mentioned: The cut brown wire is from the start sol for ign+ Are you referring to pic #6, 4" brown wire inside and under the dash? The taped up wires at the 4 plug is the backup lamps/neutral saftey Are your referring to pic, #5. It has 2 small red wires that go into one thick black wire, or is that the 2 into 1 coil wire. In pic #5, there is a small female plug. Next to what I call the 2 into 1 wire. What is that for? If I understand, I should replace the 2 into 1 coil wire. Then do you think I will have 12 volts to the coil? Thanks!!!!

I appreciate everyones time and attention regarding this mess up. It's way beyond my technical experience and with all ofthe other items in need of repair, I'll never get the car on the road. The funniest thing happened to me today, I was speaking to a man about my concern and he told me of an elderly gentleman who has 3 warehouses of early Mustang parts, plus a few part vehicles right in my town (Yeah Right!) Now you have to understand, I live in a very rural part of the country, with about a population of 12000. So, I decided to see for myself if this is true. That's right, I found the jack pot! This guy had everything you could imagine to rebuild early Mustangs, even tons oem parts. It was like walking in a candy store and he had a new wiring harness made by Scott Drake for $205, so I bought it! I will be putting the harness in sometime soon. My question now is: Once I put the replacement harness in, I'm going to need a Voltage Reg and the original type alternator, also I'll be running aftermarket mechanical gauges. Will I be able to get 12 volts from the wire where the engine wires (oil & water temp) are coming from to the coil. OR Is something I'm missing or something else I need to take care of to get 12 volts like the stock set up. Thanks for your patience!!!!

While reading this, Please keep in mind that I was recently informed by the PO the following: He bought the car 10 years ago, it already had no Volt. Reg and was set up with a GM alternator. Afterwards he could only get 6 volts to the coil, therefore he had to tap into the radio wire and use a MSD igniter to get 12 volts. This now leads me to the problem of trying to make the charging and starting systems back to normal. Main Goal: 1, I would like to run a 1 wire alternator. I was given a good working 140 amp Power master (I already read the bad reviews). 2, I would like to get 12 volts to the coil. I think it has something to do with the engine wires coming from the center of the fire wall Today, I was able to unwrap the electrical wires going to the solenoid. I enclosed a hand drawing of the same. Starting from the Radiator support (passenger side), I found a small dia. 4†cut black wire (see pic); this is about 2 ft. from the Solenoid. Further up that bundle, I found a cut green/ red stripe wire totally wrapped in electrical tape. All of the other wires further up are self explanatory as shown in the hand drawing. I then found the engine wires (Oil, Water, etc.) pulled ½ way inside the dash. I was able to push the grommet through the hole and took a pic for your view. Next to the 3 engine wires sticking out, there are 2 wires that become one thick black wire, that wire is cut off and taped. Then on the inside of the firewall with the same bundle wires and just before the grommet there is a small 4†brown cut wire also seen in the photo. Next, at the main harness connection in the engine bay and next to the master cylinder there is a 2†frayed bare wire (I think it has something to do with the brake idiot light?). Next to that wire is a frayed green / red stripe wire that runs within the harness, note within the pic & bottom of the hand drawing. 1, Can someone can tell me if I was able to identify any of the Volt. Reg wires. 2, what is the 2 into one wire at the engine wire (Coil ?) 3, Is the 2†frayed wires at the main harness for the brakes. 4, does the green/ red stripe frayed wire have anything to do with the starting or charging system. I know this is a lot of thinking, but I’m stuck and need your help. Thanks!

Here's a picture of the clutch fork the PO used. So, I guess if he used it, it must work. Thank you!

I have a 69 Fastback, (1968) 289, 4spd toploader, large alum. Bellhousing. The clutch fork that came with the car is 10 1/2", it's after market no part number on it to cross reference and it has no spring clip. It rides on the clutch fork bracket within the bellhousing. Keep in mind, that the drivetrain was out of the car, so I have no idea what the correct set up is. I discovered when viewing MUSTANG TEK that the 69 Mustang small block had a similiar size clutch fork, C8OA-7515A 68-69 Mustang 302 10 1/2, but it had a spring tab on it. Also, the clutch fork bracket that goes with that spring clip style has a slot in it to except the fork spring clip. My bellhousing bracket can only be used with a fork that rides on it, it has no hole to except the spring clip. I don't want to put the entire drivetrain together, then find that the clutch alignment is off. If the factory set up uses the spring clip style, then I would get the correct fork and bellhousing bracket. Or, am I being a little to cautious and what I have is just fine. What do you say! Here's a picture of the correct clutch fork Thank you!

I understand. I would like to close this thread. Thank you for your help.

Thanks for the reply. The car is at another place, it should a few days before I can look at it. I'll report then. Thanks again!

SunnDogg, Thanks. You nailed it!!!!!!

Is it either: Old ford Blue or Ford Blue

Thanks Angel. Someone told me that the wires going to the soleniod have to cross in front of the firewall, then down the pass apron to the soleniod. I guess they were wrong. Wow! I was contemplating a new harness $$$$ If you look at my pictures of the soleniod, I'm trying to figure what wire feeds the Voltage reg. Apparently, the previous owner took it out and may of did a 1 wire 2G alt setup. But who know's?? You can also see in my pic the wires below the soleniod has one loose wire. I don't know what thats for either. How about you? If anything let me know where you think the volt reg wire is. I appreciate your help!

I know. Money is tight everywhere. I'm in the process of getting the engine rebuilt & 4spd looked over. In addition I need body work and etc.... You know the story. Just trying my best to keep above water.

In need of the engine bay wire harness. Do you have one for sale? 1969 Fastback, no AC, no Factory tach. 289 4spd.

OK have fun and send some pics of the FEST.

Just found out how bad my engine wire harness is. My bay does not have wires coming from the fire to the alt. solenoid, someone rerouted the wires and wrapped together in one stran. Please check the pics below. If your noticing something I didn't catch please take the time to tell me. I'm needing a picture of the engine side wire harness showing the firewall, right and left aprons and radiator support. Or any picture that can help. Thanks to all!!!!

Oh! Thanks for the explanation.

Sorry, but what do you mean by Post 18 Danno?