prayers1

Well just got back and was able to take off the front and rear drums. The front was able to come off after backing off the adjuster. For the rear, I couldn't find the adjuster, so I had to pry the drum off a little at a time with 3 screwdrivers, tons of PB Blaster and wacks of the hammer. Lucky for me that the rear was hard to get off. I found a cracked wheel cylinder, the adjuster star was in pieces and the brake pads fell to crumbs. Since I just replaced the master cylinder, I was just going to bleed the brakes, throw the drivetrain in and go. Now I'll have to do an entire brake hardware, wheel cylinder and pad update. This will give me an excuse to paint the backing, drums and suspension. Thank you RacerX and to all who replied. I'm sure during this build I'll be posting more help questions. Have a Happy & Safe 4th of July!

On a budget for now. Just got the motor and trans rebuilt, next body and interior, so specialty items will have to come last. RacerX, very good idea. I'll give a wack at it when I get back to the car. Thanks for all replys!

The motor and trans are out. I tied a strap to the car and pulled it around the yard (I have a few acres of land) and thought that would unfreeze the drums. Afterwards, the drums rotated free. I thought since they spun easy that I didn't need to mess with the adjuster. It's been a while since I last worked on drum brakes. Also, I replaced the master cylinder yesterday, but could't open the 1/4" bleeder screw on the left front. It appears the prior PO stripped it and it's almost impossible to get at. I'll more than likely will need to replace the wheel cylinders. Time ran out yesterday, but I assume with front drum brakes since it's been ages since I've done something like this that I'd have to pull the bearing & drum off to get to the wheel cylinder???? I haven't had any of the drums off since owning the car (4 months) I'd like to replace all wheel cylinders, pads and if needed brake hardware. I just gotta get those drums off. It'll be a few days before I can attempt anything, I'll use the above ideas and if anyone else has some thought , Please advise. THANKS!

Bought the car after it sat for 4 years. I went to take the drums off and it wouldn't budge. I tried soaking it with PB Blaster, wire brushing around the axle and drum so that the PB can do it's thing, I even tried a sledge hammer to the drum. The axle to drum looks like its one piece but I know it's not. I don't have a torch, just basic tools and I live in a rural area. I haven't tried the adjusting nut, however the axle turns easy on both sides and I can't get both sides off. What to do?

69gmachine, That's the info I was looking for. Thanks! I'll go check it out!

I thought the nose cone had something to do with it. If I bolt on the starter I have while the drivetrain is out, is there a way to determine if it is the right one?

Anybody want to give this a shot?

FYI: 69 Fastback, 289, Large Bellhousing, 164 tooth flywheel, 4spd toploader. The drivetrain is currently rebuilt and out of the car. I gave up assuming that the PO had all the right parts. I do have a starter in the boxes of part received, but how do I know if it's gonna fit before putting the motor in. I've read that there are 2 types of starters with different noses. Not sure on which one I have. Thanks!

I should of thought of it myself. Thank You! I was able to figure out the shifter rod positions and discovered that the reverse rod is too short and that the PO had it botched up. It's one of those universal rods with a 3" open adjustment that broke off at the end. I can either get a 3" section welded or try to locate another, I already posted on this site as well as VMF. I searched the web as well as eBay, it seems that I'll have to get the rod fixed. In the mean time. I'm gonna rebuild the shifter. Thanks!

I should of thought of it myself. Thank You! I was able to figure out the shifter rod positions and discovered that the reverse rod is too short and that the PO had it botched up. It's one of those universal rods with a 3" open adjustment that broke off at the end. I can either get a 3" section welded or try to locate another, I already posted on this site as well as VMF. I searched the web as well as eBay, it seems that I'll have to get the rod fixed. In the mean time. I'm gonna rebuild the shifter. Thanks!

I have a 1967 4 speed Toploader I'm using in a 1969 Fastback. The Hurst shifter mount mounts on the trans tail. I need the reverse shifter rod or a set of rods. Thanks John

I have a 1967 4 speed Toploader I'm using in a 1969 Fastback. The Hurst shifter mount mounts on the trans tail. I need the reverse shifter rod or a set of rods. Thanks John

When adjusting the shifter linkage. I know to keep 1st & 2nd in neutral and to place a 1/4 bit in the shifter linkage to line everything up, but what about the reverse lever on the trans. It moves right to left or vice versa as with 1st & 2nd gear you know the center of each lever is neutral. So, when I adjust the shifter linkage what position do I put reverse in? Also what color paint are you painting the trans. Thanks!

When adjusting the shifter linkage. I know to keep 1st & 2nd in neutral and to place a 1/4 bit in the shifter linkage to line everything up, but what about the reverse lever on the trans. It moves right to left or vice versa as with 1st & 2nd gear you know the center of each lever is neutral. So, when I adjust the shifter linkage what position do I put reverse in? Also what color paint are you painting the trans. Thanks!

Sounds GREAT! What size tire, rim and backspacing do you have in the back?

Sounds GREAT! What size tire, rim and backspacing do you have in the back?

FYI: The 3rd hole is for the power steering bracket. They sell a crush nut that expands in the 3rd hole and leaves a threaded hole like your 1st & 2nd hole. I found this out, because the guy I bought my car from busted the bolt in the 2nd hole and tried to drill it out and destroyed the entire hole leaving a 5/8 size hole. For now I have to use an expanded wing nut until I can take the car in town to get one welded up. Just thought you'd like to know what that hole was used for. Glad to hear you got your problem figured out.

FYI: The 3rd hole is for the power steering bracket. They sell a crush nut that expands in the 3rd hole and leaves a threaded hole like your 1st & 2nd hole. I found this out, because the guy I bought my car from busted the bolt in the 2nd hole and tried to drill it out and destroyed the entire hole leaving a 5/8 size hole. For now I have to use an expanded wing nut until I can take the car in town to get one welded up. Just thought you'd like to know what that hole was used for. Glad to hear you got your problem figured out.

Thanks for the pic. Nice interior an A/C to boot! Some day I hope mine will look as good.

Thanks for the pic. Nice interior an A/C to boot! Some day I hope mine will look as good.

Mach1Rider, Photos are perfect. Thank you for taking the time to get'em. What shifter to you have, Comp Plus or Street Shifter?

Mach1Rider, Photos are perfect. Thank you for taking the time to get'em. What shifter to you have, Comp Plus or Street Shifter?

I have a 1967 4 speed Toploader that just got rebuilt. I cleaned and painted the rods & levers a few weeks ago and placed them aside in order of installation. Unfortunately, the wife moved things around and now I can't remember how the linkage is set up. A picture showing the right set will do. Thanks!

I have a 1967 4 speed Toploader that just got rebuilt. I cleaned and painted the rods & levers a few weeks ago and placed them aside in order of installation. Unfortunately, the wife moved things around and now I can't remember how the linkage is set up. A picture showing the right set will do. Thanks!

To all who might be interested, the correct color is Semi-Flat Black. Source: Lance A. Morgan, Registrar 1970 Mustang Grabber Registry