etel64

I am using the Painless Fan relay kit. It is fed by a 30a breaker located near the start solenoid. In the installed pix you can see the 175 degree thermal switch in the thermostat housing. This 351w used to run hot in NJ and now I am here in TX and am surely going to be running the AC, I dont want to run into any issues.

Sorry for delay mike. But here are th pix of the brackets I made to mount my rad rad.

:yinyang:Well, here it is. THe twin fan setup on the wider rad is the key. In business now except for the stainless braided tranny cool lines to be added. I just didnt like the way the stock SS hardlines line up.

85% of the crap we worry about never happens. All is installed and the hood has plenty of clearance. I would recomend the twin fan setup since they are off the centerline of the WP pulley. I have an 1" clearance between the WP and the fan. Mike, I have pix of the brackets I made of 3/16 aluminum if it helps.

Good suggestion Stangnet33. will do . And buckeye, and how is it you have so many awesome pictures to help us all out? your the man when it come to pix man !

here is the part number that fit perfectly in the Champion Rad. 359279-S FITTING, TRANSMISSION COOLER LINES, 2 REQD, NOW SOLD AS EACH! CORRECT BRASS FITTINGS THAT MOUNT IN RADIATOR TO CONNECT COOLER LINES

oops. started poking with an awl and found the holes that where covered with about 1/4" of new foam. Thanks for looking.

Sooo in agreement with Lemon. But then again it is our inginuity that sets us apart from the rest of the knucklebusters. I installed mine with the jack stands way to the rear of the shock towers. This let the body flex down so the holes would be closer. they where at least 3/4 of the hole misaligned. Loose at the firewall helped a lot. Then with an Alignment pin I pryed into align. I dropped the grade 5 bolts in and snugged them. I didnt have theshock braket to make things worse since I had a TCP coil over setup. Just my 2c worth.

Original door panels had a inner plastic shell and the door handle cups had one rivet on the end holding them in place. My new repro panels are all foam. What did you all do? Omit the rivet and just let the door bracket hold it in place?

Thanks yall. I cut 3/4 x 3/4 sticky side foam and pushed them over the pins. THis sealed the holes and gave the embossed ridges something to tighten against instead of the paint. BTW. the stuff you think will be breeze winds up being the most difficult ! these assys are a serious POA ! ! !

After many stops and dumb looks, all pointed me towards Napa for these. I even called the Rad mfr (Champ...)and they couldnt tell me ! Uhhg. So, called NPD on a last ditch effort and low an behold they have them. They are on the way !

I am installing the boomerangs around the rear quarter windows, is there a sponge/gasket that goes between the trim and painted body? Im afraid if I tighten the nuts too tight or during vibration it will start to chip the paint.:sweatdrop:

:eek:Can anyone tell me what fittings to use on the tranny cooling line to radiator connections? Are these AN fittings? I have determined they are not NPT for sure and not in bad way. Where do I get these buggers? I do know the female fitting on the flared line has a 1/2-20 thread and the female thread on the radiator is a 3/8-20/24? So close to adding fluids for fisrt starting I can taste it.

I have considered doing the same but then again there are newer type antenna that can be dash mounted rather than fender mounted. I just have not determined which type to go with. I thought about the shark fin antennas look really cool.

:confused1:Ok, whats the deal with the radiator expansion tanks I am seeing on folks rides? Is this just a preference thing or what? I have put alot of attentention into my baby and its the details that make a huge difference to her. IS it just to keep any coolant from leaking on the shop floor or driveway? All thoughts will be appreciated.

Has anyone installed a Champion aluminum radiator? Besdies mounting this the lowest I can there seems to be an issue with the bottom hose interferring with the diagonal cross member if I need to go lower. I dont have the hood on yet and it looks like it may be a little high. Champion says its a direct fit and from previous lessons on stuff like this I have found "direct fit" to sometimes be not so true. I have removed the saddles (top and bottom) and have fabbed brackets and all there is no problem. This is a CC379 with dual fans and I have plenty of clearance to the WP. 1.50 top on pass side and the 1.75 bottom ont he drive side.

I investigated this too and most pointed towards the size motor and size tires I was planning on. I have the 351w small block and am plannign on standard tire widths. Big blocks and wide tires are the factors for the PS version R&P. I havent set the TCP ont he ground with the tires and weight so I really cant give first hand experience. Good luck and post your results for the next. Thanks

My best guess is that most adjust this when the new gasket is installed and then over time the gasket gets creased and gives a little bit and then the lid drops a bit. I would much rather notice a bit of mis align than a leaky deck lid. I had to keep reminding myself during the build that these cars came with minor flaws too.

I figured out the locations now but still have an issue with the diameters not matching up. The trans modulator tube is 3/16" but the vacumm tree nipple is 1/8" ......... Does a reduction in the ID affect the vacumm? Anyone ever reduce this ?

The weights in the distributor are balanced along with the springs as such they will advance the distributor timing as the shaft rotating speed increases. This is consider a mechanically advanced distributor. This was balanced & setup by a machine shop years ago and was told to never hook vacumm to it. Where would I find the references to race motors only that you refer to?

Thanks 69Boss408. As you can see they have a clarification on these headers but do not distinguish this on the 6901s. And yes, I told them all I wanted was headers that fit ! Was not looking to put the blame on anyone. IT was their approach in handling this issue that scewerd them.

[ATTACH]10137[/ATTACH] Yes I do my friend ! And it was the hard way. First I would not have been able to connect to the collectors and the flanges would have worn a hole in the floor boards ! They still deny their is any issue with these fitting even though the engine dimensions dont lie. 1.30" higher deck height and wider block. My approach to dealing with a unwilling to help a customer stance that Hooker has is to speak with my check book and not use their product. In this case, Hooker has earned that place. Even their own website forum has instances like mine. I went with a different manufacturer and a short length header to prevent any issues.

THanks b. I had to modify it a bit but it works. yep, thats a fabbed extension fo rthe throttle. Love ot see pix of your gt.

Thanks for the advice. CHECK ! Larger port does go the PCV. SO what do you think of the other (full monifold vacumm that supposedly goes to the air cleaner and/or air pump diverter?

I have a 600cfm hHolley that has (2) small vacumm ports. Meter block port Holley Instructions say (timed spark vacumm source) to connect to the Distributor advance on the Distributor. I have a balanced Distr with mechanical advanced timing on the it and was told not to connect any vacumm to it. Do I block this off? THe other vacumm port is in the carb base. (full manifold vacumm) and is presently/previously blocked off. DO I keep this blocked off?