TheMenace

Looking for the base assembly mine crack

I used the butyl tape on mine. I got mine from the BMW dealership I worked for so I don't know how much it costs or where to get it but I did have to reopen my heater box after I sealed it up and I have a little trick that worked for me. Spray windex on the butyl tape and with a razor cut open the tape. Once the butyl tape is wet it doesn't stick as much and you will be able to peel the box open without getting it all over the place.

Found them at cjponyparts. $1200!!! Yikes. I did the conversion to sport comp gauges and was thinking about selling my setup and buying this but even if I got retail for my setup I would be a few 100 short of that. Guess I will just have to wait till I hit the lottery or something lol

Where did you find these gauges? I am thinking about replacing my setup for these bc i had to add 2 gauges by the radio for water temp and volts and this like you said fixes that problem.

I am going to get the cheap one from them and paint it the color of the car. I painted a lot of things the color of the car as an accent color (engine, shocks, control arms, braided line fittings, radiator cap...) I can't even remember what else I went accent crazy at one point lol

Good work I like the way it came out. I am getting a mini extinguisher from there too!

I am going to start making my trunk and I need a few pics of other trunks to get some ideas. I am looking to build a subwoofer enclosure behind the rear seats and something behind each taillight but I don't have any ideas yet. My brother has a 69 fastback just like mine and says at shows the judges look for fire extinguers, first aid kit and owners manuals. Is this true? Are there any other things I should look to include back there?

You're right 20% doesn't look that bad at all. I am only leaning towards 35% bc at shows when I park I don't want people cupping their face on my windows to see my interior if the tints are to dark. Like your trunk release handle, looks really good. I put an electric one in my glovebox from a late model mustang.

That's a good idea I will look into them.

I personally am going for a tint. Not dark though maybe a 35%.

The radio isnt sitting completely in the bezel right now because I just installed amps so i really quickly shoved the radio into the dash and took the pics. you get the idea how it will look when i set it completely in. I also just removed the feet vents and installed 6x9s and cut the panel that goes over there and put a trim around it to make it look better. i have to figure out what i am going to do about the hole where the pull handle was. any ideas?

Yea, I am at work now but I will upload them later. The only problem I came across was the metal support the dash pad covers was in the way. I had to notch it a little bc the top of the nav was hitting it. The nav unit has to sit ressed back a 1/4" or so bc the radio opening is on an angle and not straight like most radio openings. If you don't push it back the sides near the bottom of the nav will show and look bad.

Get the repo they don't look that cheap in person. I bought one and had a DIN sized radio with a black trim ring and it looked great. I came across a double din nav unit and I cut out the bottom part and it still works. Almost a perfect fit for a double din with the side covers installed

I installed my rear end about 5 years ago and the car never moved or drove yet. I installed a Richmond ratcheting LSD and new gears. Now that the car is ready to drive I am worried that since it sat for so long the addatives for the LSD in the gear oil might be bad and need to be replaced. Should I replace the gear oil? Another question is since I have the 8" I dont have a drain plug. I was thinking about just drilling a 1/2" hole in the bottom of the housing under the rear and tapping threads and install a magnetic drain plug. Is this ok or should I pull the axles and carrier and then drill the hole?

So if i understand what he did, he got a regular filter assembly and modified the top so the shaker would sit on top but not be functional? It's an idea but kinda defeats the purpose of having the shaker.

I will take a picture of the rack holes but from what you said 69g I had the hoses hooked up right. I am just having really bad luck with this car. I will try to post the pic later but I know the high pressure hose was in the lower hole looking at the rack installed. This makes this the 4th new part I had to replace so far bc it was defective out of the box. Lucky me I just removed my booster and master bc that too was defective so I have a ton of room to take the pic to show you guys.

Just went to mustangsunlimited site and viewed their mounts for the 351w. The pic of their short looks 2 inches shorter than the short mounts I got from CJ Pony parts. I have no clue why the pics for the same part are different from one site to the other but I will try the short style mounts from mustangsunlimited and see if those are shorter. With the luck I am having with this car I wouldn't be surprised....

I built my friends 69 and he has the EXACT same everything as mine except his was an original 351 block. You think the base is different from a 302? I haven't looked into that yet but it's the only thing left I haven't replaced.

I have a 69 fastback. It was an original 302 car. I bought a 351w and the short style motor mounts. The 351w has an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 1/4" carb spacer and a quickfuel carb. I bought the small block shaker assembly from CJ Pony parts. When I go to close the hood it lines up with the shaker about 1-2 inches to high before the hood fully closes. Anyone have any ideas on what could be the problem?

I bought a rack and pump from Randalls rack a few years ago. The lines he gave me were the black ones that leaked. He sent me the braided ones that fixed that problem but the ends on them were wrong and didnt fit the rack. I called him and sent me a new set of braided lines. When I tried the new lines I had the same problem with them not fitting the rack he sold me. At this point I got frustrated and rather wait 3 weeks for him to resend me the correct lines I went to a shop and paid $100 to have new correct ends put on. I installed them with no problems till now. The rack is leaking from the inner tie rod seal. I called him and told him this whole thing and asked which hole on the rack the pressure hose went to. The only response I got was "the bigger hole is the pressure hose one". I checked the line and that is the way I have it set one. On the rack the "bigger hole" is the one closer towards the radiator and the smaller one is closer to the firewall. Is this how everyone else has theirs setup?

did not notice the MSD trick till you pointed it out. great touch, wish i thought of that before i did mine. maybe if i have free time and patience one nite i will do the same thing as yours. i have a dyno sheet for my block with the RPM on it but the sheet is all numbers. i am going to see if i can convert it to a lined graphed like the one you have on your page. i scanned it and i will post the numberic one for now and try to convert it later. looking at it my torque drops from 5000-6000 RPMS but my horse power goes up. strange.... my exhaust goes all the way to the rear valance. i have the tubing that goes over the rear axle and comes out to a downward dump chrome tip. i have the full Magnaflow exhaust installed.

xuperjoex - thanks. we have the same intake, exhaust, coil and ignition box. i guess great minds think a like huh? kllerbee - thanks like to keep my bling bling shinny

New pics. You can see i moved the ignition coil so it cleans up the harness a little more. when car goes in for body work i am having the holes taken away so it will look flush once again.

when i bought my transmission i didnt realize it till it was to late that it came with a reverse valve body. i cant return it now so i am stuck with it. my car i have the original center console and want to keep it. has anyone installed an aftermarket ratcheting shifter assembly and installed it in the original console? i am looking at either the b&m quick silver or hammer shifter assembly. any help will be great.