TheMenace

I am going for a restomod show car so I am not concerned about originality at all. The car when its done will be a weekend warrior/show car and stored away in the winter so i dont need the bed liner to protect ot from the elements. The bed liner is his idea. I am not to crazy about it but he is kinda doing all of the body work for free so i am giving him a lot of input on stuff. I am leaning towards an epoxy primer. How do I go about it? After all the metal is stripped and cleaned do I just spray the epoxy primer on top or is there something that needs to go on first? when do i seam seal? Before or after the primer is on? Sorry for such basic questions, I am a mechanic for 10 years and this is my first attempt at body work and paint so I am pretty clueless about all of this as you can tell lol

i just finished welding in the new floor pans and i am just about done stripping the rest of the interior back down to bare metal. after all this is done what do i do next? i was told to either get an epoxy primer or zero rust. which one is better? would i be able to spray ZR down and then epoxy primer on top? when do i use the seam sealer? after the primer? before? the guy at the body shop is DEAD SET on spraying the floors with truck bed liner. is this a bad idea? he wants to do the top and bottom of the floors this way. what do you guys think of this idea?

little update. got the new floors, toe boards, rear seat housing installed. cleaning up the welds a little and then i am going to start on the rear 1/4s and door skins. didnt realize this till after i bought them but the rear 1/4s were for a 70 and dont have the duct cut into them. kinda sucks i have to cut up the new 1/4s but they dont sell 69 specific ones from where i ordered.

Great work. Going through all your pics is inspiring me to do some more work on mine lol do you have any more pics of the 05 mustang center console installed? i am thinking about doing this too bc i am putting a 6x9 speaker in the fresh air ducts by the foot wells in the front and it blocks any chance for me to install the ebrake pedal there. the 05 console will solve that problem to and it looks 100x better than the original one.

I have a complete unit for sale. I have everything including the vacuum plug and vacuum canister. Pm me or email at dennisriese@yahoo.com

I am upgrading to the Wilwood setup so I dont need my setup i have. my car came with factory front discs so i just replaced the parts with new ones and upgraded the car to rear discs. Everything i am selling is NEW with NO miles on it. Just installed and let in the shop. Front Setup (2) New Front Rotors (2) New Front Calipers (2) New Front Caliper Shields/Hardware Both Front Caliper Mounting Brackets (2) New Front Brake Hoses New set of Front Brake Pads (2) New Front Bearing sets Rear Setup Complete 8" rear SSBC disc conversion kit Part number A1112 at mustangsunlimited.com for $595 It comes with rotors, calipers, brackets, hoses and hardware needed to convert rear drums to disc. PM me or email me at dennisriese@yahoo.com if you are interested. i dont have a set price yet for all this but i know i wont be getting my money back at near $1500 so anything reasonable wont be turned down.

Lookong for both bucket assemblies

Gauging interest on this. I replaced all the seals, heater core, evaporator, vaccum canister, blower motor and cable. I am just seeing if anyone is interested in this bc might go with an all electric setup. Pm or email me at dennisriese@yahoo.com if you're interested.

18x10 in the rear? I bought 2 18x9 from an 05+ mustang for the rear and I was worried about fitment issues. They have a bigger offset than the 99-04 mustang. I have 2 18x9 rims from a 99-04 mustang for the fronts. I never test fitted anything yet I am hoping they all fit. Went to your album and checked your pics, I converted to 4 wheel discs too. I went with a ssbc adjustable proportional valve up front. Seems like we have a pretty similar car lol. 351w with a c4 by any chance?

That's your car in yiur sig right? What kinda rims and size do you have and any suspension upgrades? That's the perfect stance IMO.

Once the new floors are in I bought "peel and seal" it's a dirt cheap alternative to dynamat. I am doing the whole car from the firewall to the trunk. It cost me under $30 for all I will need. When you say he ran it up the tail panel, he just glued it to the metal that's back there right? He didn't make an extra board that he attached to the tail panel?

Where are you located? Did he do anything near the trunk latch/fuel filler neck?

Yea it was the best worst thing to happen to that car. It's funny looking at the before pics the floors looked decent. I think he spent more time hiding his hacking than he did actually fixing the rust. Once i started removing layers of paint/bondo the real condition of the car was able to be seen. Now that i am getting better at fabrication I am started to do some custom things. I made a bracket for the rear quarter extention so the extention will rest on the bracket as well as be held in by the 3 bolts so it has more holding strength bc I am going to hide the body line and don't want it to flex/move and eventually crack. I am still thinking of a better way to attach the headlight buckets so I can remove that body line next.

Famous last words... Story of my car in short form. My father bought the car from a friend and it needed LOTS of work. At least 80% of the car was rusted. He worked out a deal with one of his friends to do all the metal and body work. When the car was nearly done and primed, ready for paint, my father passed away and in the words with the guy that worked on the mustang "the deal died when your father died". The car sat for about 8 years and I started getting it back together this past year. Dropped in new engine, tranny, brakes, electric and interior. I know little to nothing about body work so i brought the car to a shop and told the guy the story. He said he will help me finish the car and teach me body work in the process. According to me the car "just needed a little body work". 4 weeks in and I have replaced both front torque boxes, drivers side frame rail, piece of the passenger side frame rail, pieces of the rear torque boxes and frame and some of the cowl. I just ordered both rear quarter skins and both long floor pans to install next week. Most of this stuff was replaced by my fathers "friend" but not installed correct or more importantly safe. The floors the guy cut ONLY the rust holes out and layed the complete replacement sections ontop of the existing floor so now in some sections there is 2 floor boards sandwiched together. He secured these by rivets and then seam sealer!!! I had no idea what was under the car but I am piece by piece replacing all the hacking done. I am taking progress pics as I go along the way and I will start a thread specific for that but I just wanted to vent/share my experience with this car so far

mine is a restomod to so i am not worried about looking original. did you do the work yourself or have a shop do it?

SM69 - love what you did. This is close to what I want to do. Where you put the Mach 1 on the back side of the trunk, I am welding in 2 compartments, one to hold the owners manual and other documents and the other to hold a little first aid kit. I was talking to my brother and it turns out those things plus a fire extinguisher are required for judges. Who knew?

I was thinking about mounting the amps on the back of my rear seats (non fold down) and then make a rear wall for the trunk and mount the 2 10" subs so they are facing you when you open the trunk. Then on the sides behind the tail lights make walls with a compartment on each side and on one side put a first aid kit and the other a small tool set with scissor jack.

I think those rapid brake lights will be really annoying and probably have a cop pull you over. i wouldnt get them. the dakotadigital ones are WAAAAAY over priced. the MU kit looks good, only thing i am worried about is how far back do the lights sit from the red lenses? i am thinking that if they sit to far back if you stand on an angle and the turn is on you might see the middle light shine threw on the inner or outer one depending on which angle you are looking at it. get what i am saying?

I have a really good setup of 2 amps and 2 10" JL subs from my friend that is sitting around. I was thinking about either selling it or making a custom trunk and installing everything in my 69 fastback. My question to you guys is, by doing this does it kinda make the car look cheesy as a whole? i am going for a restomod show car but i dont know if doing this will be too much. I already have a double din nav/dvd player in the dash with 4 6x9s in the interior so i dont need the 2 subs in the trunk for the sound quality. I would hook them up and make the subs fully functional but i would turn the bass ALLLL the way down so they are just there for looks. whats your guys opinion on sub enclosures in classic mustangs?

I called the company and asked them about it. They said the setup is the one wire way and the module ties into the turn signal output from the steering column so it won't effect anything dealing with the brakes. They will sequence with the lighter filement not the bright one. For $64 shipped for both sides it wasn't a bad deal. Plus off eBay last year I got my led tail lights for 100 shipped and it came with the LEDs built into the red lenses with the 3 stainless steel around each lens. 164 for a complete new tail led sequential light assembly minus the buckets, I reused those.

That is pretty close to the kit I am getting. I was thinking about the wiring and I figured it out. I have to wire it up with the one wire Setup bc our turns and brakes share the same bulb so the kit has to only splice into the turn (less bright wire) so when the brakes are applied they light up normal. Now I am worried how these modules act when I apply the brakes and have the turns on?

The kit does splice into each bank but there two sets of instructions. One set shows you just cut one wire per bank on the tail light and splice it into the control module and the other instruction you cut all 3 per bank and wire right into the module. I don't know which way to wire it up.

I bought a set of led tail lights off eBay a few years and I want to upgrade them to sequential. I found a kit on eBay that you just splice into the led wiring and it will turn the sequential. The instructions show a 69 Camaro though so I am worried the wiring might be different. Anyone use a kit like this?

Hmm I might have to give them a call. Anyone want to buy an original 69 cluster with 4 auto meter sport comp gauges and the Shelby center console pod with 2 extra gauges for 960? Lol

Does it come with the black gauge panel or just the gauges? Also Do they make them with red LEDs instead of the blue/green in the pic?