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dpuwookie79

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Posts posted by dpuwookie79

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Agreed with mystang - you need to take your time with pot metal. If you force it, it will break. It took me a couple of weeks of massaging to get the quarter panels ornaments to fit again after a season of being off of the car. I did not use heat... I simply went out and tightened the quarter ornaments a little more each day and eventually it conformed to the quarter panel.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    I'm having some trouble discerning differences in kits. For example, I've been looking at these two:

     

    http://www.kentuckymustang.com/product_p/6523.htm

     

    and

     

    http://www.cjponyparts.com/ssbc-front-disc-brake-conversion-kit-power-automatic-1967-1969/p/A1211-V/

     

    There's a pretty huge difference in price. From what I can tell they both accomplish the same end task, but one is a name brand kit. The video on the one from Kentucky Mustang says that those brakes are 4 piston, just as the SSBC kit. Also, both appear to use the spindles from my standard drum brakes. I've been digging through past posts on tech forum, but still having trouble discerning what's what. Which of the above do you guys recommend? Are there better choices out there? Just looking to make my driver a bit safer!

     

    Thanks!

  8. Posted · Report reply

    I know these are generally classic boards, but I've known many of you guys long enough to know you don't mind looking at newer cars too :001_smile:. I'm selling my 2011 GT to get something bigger... my wife and I are planning on adding another to our family in the not terribly distant future, so I'm going to get something more practical as a DD. Anyway, enough blabbing.. here's the listing:

     

    http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/4125698418.html

     

    I'm flexible on price, so if you're interested shoot me a PM/email/text. Thanks

  11. Posted · Report reply

    The only thing they did on the interior was get rid of the woodgrain and paint it silver to match the stripes. Everything else including the standard seats with a deluxe interior is just the way I had it.

     

    Ah, right on, my mistake. Guess I never really saw that many pictures of your interior. I do like the silver inserts, though. (If anyone has a reference to them PM me!)

     

    And pak, I believe he did have those gauges on the dash. I managed to find his youtube channel :)

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8saDkDhngI0

     

    You'll see the gauges @ ~33s.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    You can simply unplug the factory radio from the main harness and use aftermarket bullet plugs for switched power and lights. I hate to see butchered harnesses that really don't need to be butchered.

     

    Unfortunately someone butchered the harness long before I got to the car. Fortunately the leads mentioned by previous posters are still there! I tested them out and it looks like the power problem for the head unit has been resolved. Will post pics when I get the harnesses permanantly attached! Thanks for your help everyone!

  17. Posted · Report reply

    I'm trying to install a newer din style radio in my '69 vert, but am unsure about power usage through the stock wiring harness. The setup I'm going to be installing includes the head unit connected to an amp in the trunk. I'll only be using the pre-outs and remote on the head unit. Power to the amp will be provided using a separate (new) set of high gauge/insulated wiring straight from the battery. So, more specifically, my question is, will I be safe to use the stock harness to provide power & accessory power to the head unit? Thanks!

  20. Posted · Report reply

    The first photo is inside the car. You can see the convertible top switch to the right with three wires coming out of it - black, red, and yellow. The black wire is the one that goes through midway top of the firewall and attaches to a plug you'll see in the second and third photos. The connected to section of the plug goes directly into the voltage regulator harness plug. Hope this helps!

  21. Posted · Report reply

    I just happen to have the dash pad off to install stereo components which are in the mail. I know the top control lever has a few inputs to it. One comes straight from the voltage regulator, the other two are routed through the multi-wire harness, I believe. I've got to hit the hay, but I'll try and get some photos and a more detailed description up for you tomorrow evening!

  22. Posted · Edited by dpuwookie79 · Report reply

    Everyone, thank you for your replies! I have a much better idea of what's going to happen with the circuit now. Also, good point with the included wire per your chart, buening. Although, I highly doubt I'll be utilizing the full amperage output of the alternator, it's good to know that the included wiring is probably not sufficient, if you are going to be running near peak. As a side note, I believe this alternator is rated at 80 amps at idle... 140a is peak.

     

    A couple of you mentioned using voltmeters or are planning on doing so. Are you planning on putting something in your stock cluster or external to it? I'd like to maintain the original look of mine, but am not sure where to get something that will fit into the stock setup.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Someone feel free to correct me if i'm wrong, but if memory serves correct there are two different holes in that area. The one directly behind the carb on the firewall is for the convertible top switch (single wire) and the one just off to the right (several wires located towards the steering wheel) is the insturment cluster.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    This needs a bump, as I'm curious about this as well. Did you source an answer elsewhere?

     

    I have not, but from random google searches I have seen people do one of two things; unplug the ammeter altogether or update their cluster to use a voltmeter. I'm still looking for options with this. I don't know that anyone has updated their stock cluster with a voltmeter... the only ones I've seen are included in aftermarket clusters w/gauges... which are $1k plus :sad:

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