dpuwookie79

Agreed with mystang - you need to take your time with pot metal. If you force it, it will break. It took me a couple of weeks of massaging to get the quarter panels ornaments to fit again after a season of being off of the car. I did not use heat... I simply went out and tightened the quarter ornaments a little more each day and eventually it conformed to the quarter panel.

Good luck with whatever you decide! If you ever need a shot of grabber blue, shoot me a PM and I'll send you some "car p orn" pics of mine:laugh:

I'd also be interested in this, if the file is still floating around out there! dpuwookie9279@gmail.com, if the forum ends up not working!

I'm having some trouble discerning differences in kits. For example, I've been looking at these two: http://www.kentuckymustang.com/product_p/6523.htm and http://www.cjponyparts.com/ssbc-front-disc-brake-conversion-kit-power-automatic-1967-1969/p/A1211-V/ There's a pretty huge difference in price. From what I can tell they both accomplish the same end task, but one is a name brand kit. The video on the one from Kentucky Mustang says that those brakes are 4 piston, just as the SSBC kit. Also, both appear to use the spindles from my standard drum brakes. I've been digging through past posts on tech forum, but still having trouble discerning what's what. Which of the above do you guys recommend? Are there better choices out there? Just looking to make my driver a bit safer! Thanks!

I do not know the guy selling the car and I have not been to see it, but I figured I would post because it's a 69! On Indianapolis, IN craigslist: http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/4363552965.html

I had my stripes painted on my vert under a clear coat. They're glossy, but I think they look great. Here's the link to it in the build thread: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showpost.php?p=98751&postcount=86

Bump for reduced price. Motivated to move this sucker!

I know these are generally classic boards, but I've known many of you guys long enough to know you don't mind looking at newer cars too :001_smile:. I'm selling my 2011 GT to get something bigger... my wife and I are planning on adding another to our family in the not terribly distant future, so I'm going to get something more practical as a DD. Anyway, enough blabbing.. here's the listing: http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/4125698418.html I'm flexible on price, so if you're interested shoot me a PM/email/text. Thanks

http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=537810

http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=537810

Ah, right on, my mistake. Guess I never really saw that many pictures of your interior. I do like the silver inserts, though. (If anyone has a reference to them PM me!) And pak, I believe he did have those gauges on the dash. I managed to find his youtube channel :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8saDkDhngI0 You'll see the gauges @ ~33s.

Looks like they redid quite a bit of the interior too.... RIP BigSecz! Hmm... i would like to know where they got those white door panel inserts, though.

Unfortunately someone butchered the harness long before I got to the car. Fortunately the leads mentioned by previous posters are still there! I tested them out and it looks like the power problem for the head unit has been resolved. Will post pics when I get the harnesses permanantly attached! Thanks for your help everyone!

Alrighty, thanks for checking into it Cayenne!

Hey LilMike, I live near Greenwood... so we're pretty darn close! Send me a PM about your project & etc. I'd be interested in meeting up some time.

Did you use the stock "accessory" line? If not, where/how did you wire in a new one? Thanks

I'm trying to install a newer din style radio in my '69 vert, but am unsure about power usage through the stock wiring harness. The setup I'm going to be installing includes the head unit connected to an amp in the trunk. I'll only be using the pre-outs and remote on the head unit. Power to the amp will be provided using a separate (new) set of high gauge/insulated wiring straight from the battery. So, more specifically, my question is, will I be safe to use the stock harness to provide power & accessory power to the head unit? Thanks!

Eh, just because it's original I'd be tempted to order a repro and drill that. Keep the original in the basement, incase you decide to go back!

PM sent regarding the 302 valve covers

The first photo is inside the car. You can see the convertible top switch to the right with three wires coming out of it - black, red, and yellow. The black wire is the one that goes through midway top of the firewall and attaches to a plug you'll see in the second and third photos. The connected to section of the plug goes directly into the voltage regulator harness plug. Hope this helps!

I just happen to have the dash pad off to install stereo components which are in the mail. I know the top control lever has a few inputs to it. One comes straight from the voltage regulator, the other two are routed through the multi-wire harness, I believe. I've got to hit the hay, but I'll try and get some photos and a more detailed description up for you tomorrow evening!

Everyone, thank you for your replies! I have a much better idea of what's going to happen with the circuit now. Also, good point with the included wire per your chart, buening. Although, I highly doubt I'll be utilizing the full amperage output of the alternator, it's good to know that the included wiring is probably not sufficient, if you are going to be running near peak. As a side note, I believe this alternator is rated at 80 amps at idle... 140a is peak. A couple of you mentioned using voltmeters or are planning on doing so. Are you planning on putting something in your stock cluster or external to it? I'd like to maintain the original look of mine, but am not sure where to get something that will fit into the stock setup.