Daves69Coupe
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Posts posted by Daves69Coupe
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heres the new lines.
Do I have to bend the last new line on the left. As you can it doesnt exactly have the bends of the OEM one next to it.
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i believe the intermediate line connects to middle of block as shown in picture. Not sure about the rest of connections
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Anyone have a diagram of how the block and lines are connected.
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got at tach finally gonna try this out tonight.
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ill attach pics later
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NO- DON'T BEND IT. Look on the back- you'll see small cutouts. You put the "wire" side of the clip in the molding, then squeeze the other side down (bending the wire- its springy-) into the molding (line up the non wire side of the clip to the cutouts). Then slide left or right to get the bolts to line up with the hood holes. I did mine wrong- I can't recall if I put the wire up or down but it didn't line up exactly; took the clips out, flipped them over and it lined up better. It'll take a few mins to get this figured out; but I think if you bend the molding you will be sorry. (my guess is you'll be buying another one) It will fit w/o bending the molding itself.ok the wire one should be easy. What about the clip with the sqaure fitting? Did you just slide that it on through the end of the molding?
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did you guys unbend the back of the molding then rebend it once the clips were in the molding?
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Having some trouble mounting the new grill molding. Ive tried first sliding bolts into molding then mounting on buckets but I cant even get the bolts to slide into molding. Anybody know the easiest way of installing these?
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so I got the nuts to thread on the out tie rods. And (1) nut to thread on the inner tie rod before it stopped after about 5 threads or so. And the last nut wont thread at all on the other sides inner tie rod.
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I believe I have but ill check again later, that could be it.
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Anybody else install these on there car?
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hotchkis/515/1612/10002/-1
I bought them and went to install them but the lock nuts wont thread on. The adjuster sleeves threas right on the inner and outer tie rods but the nuts dont wanna thread.
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I havent went any farther then in the pics. Im thinking I may just paint it and throw it all back together so I dont get to far and get stranded by there not being any rebuild kit. Nothings looked like it needs replaing, Just a bit of rust in booster.
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anyone know how I get the booster further apart?
See pics.
I believe i have to somehow turn the part in pic 1. Correct? How can i turn it?
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nvm found bolts on inner fender
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how do your remove the distribution block?
Have all lines unhooked and I dont see any bolts holding block on.
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I ran into this with my fenders and I found out the company that was making patches for 69s stopped making them so I had to fix on my own.
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sweet ill give that a try
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how do I remove the 3 clips on the intermediate brake line?
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Can you get it to idle when it is not in gear or drive? If no then do not worry about getting it to idle in gear. Get it to idle not in gear so you can set you dwell angle, timing and mixture screw settings first. THEN you can worry about getting it to idle in drive.If you don't have a tach don't worry. You can set the idle in gear by feel. If it sounds like it is idling high out of gear and it gives you whiplash when you put it in gear, it's probably too high. If you put it in gear and it stalls then it's probably too low. I am sure you have driven an automatic before and should have a reasonable idea how it should sound and feel. No need to make it harder than it is.
the car isnt idling in park right now.
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Some timing lights have a RPM option, so you can use it for timing and setting idle speed. What I do, is make sure the timing is set good first as it will effect idle (advance increases idle.) Then, I set idle at 1000 rpm in park, then put it in gear and see what it idles at, then put it back in park. If it is say 500 rpm too high, I then lower the idle 500 rpm in park, then put it in gear again.I usually don't have someone to help by sitting in the car with their foot on the brake while it's in gear. If I have someone to help, then I just warm up the car, then have them put it in drive and set the idle.
Sounds like I have to get my brakes working before I can set idle in drive lol.
How can I get the car to stay running while still in park tho?
Timing? adjust carb?
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what do you hook the tach up too?
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since my car was factory auto do I have to hookup an external tach somewheres to do this?
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Right now my car only stays running if im pumping the gas and will die if I dont pump. I know you set the idle speed when you have the car in drive but how do I set initial idle to keep the car running with pumping throttle.
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Congratulations for sticking with it and getting it all worked out. :cool2: :thumbup1:thanks.. the frustration was all worth it.
Drum brake assembly
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
Whats the correct order to assemble drums?
Do I have to hook up ebrake cable first or last?