Daves69Coupe

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I dont have the condenser heres some of the pics. the fiberglass of heater box is cracked in a spot

I have a set of front (with tracks) and rear seats (and seatbelts) taking up room in my garage and would like to get rid if them to free up space. I also have the heater box, all heat/ac controls, AC pump and lines, ac ducts. Im not expecting much for these parts. Just need the space in garage more then anything. Ill post pics of parts later. Seats and Seatbelts= $100 plus shipping AC parts and Heater Box= $100 plus shipping Ship from Flanders, NJ

fender extensions? headlight buckets?

yes the stone shield thats in background of bracket photo

what are the bolt holes for on the ends of the center molding shown in third pic

Is this the hardware kit I need to attach center grill molding between the headlight buckets. http://www.cjponyparts.com/69-grille-molding-lwr-center-wide-8-hardware-only-1969/p/F3926/ how do I secure this on the back of the lock? I cant get my driver door to close because the door switch wont open, even when I mess with the mech. is this the bracket for attaching the center grill to bumper bracket?

I have extra parts from rebuild that I wont be using anymore and Im wondering if its worth trying to sell for cheap or just junk. Need to make some space in new place. I have red front and rear seats, heater core assembly, AC pump, extra tinted rear driver side glass and other misc.

So I'm very close to getting the car on the road, then the trans started leaking. See pic. I've started the very several times with no leaks. I put 2 quarts of trans fluid in bc I figured it we was low, no leak. Is or possible its to full or?

Ok so its primarily a GM thing. A guy running past my house and saw my car came over to talk to me about the car and asked if I had starter shims and I was luck HUH? He was a corvette guy tho. I switched out starter and everything seems fine

im gonna install the spare starter i have but wanna wait for an answer on the shims.

How many shims should be installed on starter so I dont damage my flywheel or starter. I was testing my alternator and tach wiring and car was runing fine, no the car wont start and theres a grinding sound coming from starter/flywheel. SO I removed inspection plate to look at flywheel and had someone click starter, flywheel didnt move and it sounded like somethng was spinning in starter. I removed starter and found (see pic) is this because of not having shims? The car had been started several times without times without issues then nothing.

Ive wired my aftermarket tach but im not getting thefeedback from tach. The tach lights up when in igniton position but not reading when I rev engine. Attached are photos of wiring pdf from manufacturer. Where do you connect the wire that actually reads revs? This is a normally non-tach harness.

i dont wanna get it out. Just disengage brake

so I had a chance to start messing with parking brake and see why it wont release. I got underneath and started pulling handle and I could see the mech sliding back and forth like it should but it wasnt disengaging the foot brake.

I was just looking for a solution that didnt involve me waiting for a part.

I believe I have a clogged brake line. I bleed my rear brake drum and went to do driverside but I cant get any fluid to come out of wheel cylinder or line. I checked the valve that sits on the diff and feeds both wheels and fluid does come out of side serving left rear drum so it has to be line. What can I use to clean line? bleach or vinegar or?

I had the single/ double flare tool but totally spaced on checking to see if they loaned the bubble flare tool out

I went out and bought some bubble flared line last night. Cut it and double flared the other end to connect to distribution block. Gonna connect everything back up tonight and see if the leaks have stopped at prop valve.

which way do you pull the brake release to dis-engage parking brake. Ive pushed the p brake down but can get it to release. Lines are new but mechanism under dash is OEM.

whats a better option? buy the bubble flaring tool buy a different prop valve that takes a normal flare or just bring lines to shop and let them make the 2 flares I need

anyone know how to make a bubble flare with a single/double flare tool?

is there any way of testing for leaks without having to install all the lines master cylinder etc. I feel like ive done that atleast 5 times now

There the fittings that came with prop valve so they should fit fine but who knows.

I tightened them to the point where you cant see the threads going into the prop valve. O yea there "fun" lol