Daves69Coupe
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Posts posted by Daves69Coupe
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yea thats what I have
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sprayed some starter fluid down the carb and it sounded like it wanted to turn over more but never did. Think I have to look at spark now. Are the red and black wires from the ignitor box supposed to be terminated on the ignition coil or just ground? I have both wired currently.
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have gas a carb, I don't have a fuel filter on the car right now.
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my coupe with 17x9 all around. 275 tires in rear and 255 up front. 1" spacers also all around.
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try a shot of started fluid. See if that allows it to run. If it does, then you have spark and timing. If it will not run on starter fluid, you probably do not have spark. Are you sure the ignitor box was installed correct? If it was not done correctly, you might be able to get the car to run a little bit, but it could ruin it if not done correctly.I followed the step by step instructions that were included and double checked everything a couple times. Im gonna double check the fuel line again tonight, make sure theres fluid in line between mech pump and carb.
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I recently ran the car out of gas while starting it the garage one day and now that I've re-filled the car with gas Im not getting full ignition. Just getting lil puffs out the exhaust, Im not getting a backfire out the carb or anything like that.
The only thing I changed from when it was out of gas til now is I installed an Ignitor box in distributor.
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Front and rear seats out of 69 coupe. Seats are red and come with tracks. $50 buys them + the cost of shipping.
Need them out of garage
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I guess Jersey laws are different, in just about all of New England any old car has to at least pass a basic safety inspection, if it's registered it has to be inspected. Even without that for sure if a cop was even just a few cars behind and saw those brake lights come on full strength like search beams with no refracting he would probably pull you over, just saying FWIW.I plan on using nightshade to darken lights so hopefully thatll help with brightness. Ill have to see how bright they are when I finish two more lenses. Ill do a side by side comparison of mine vs the factory to see how much brighter they could be
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do you have any daytime pictures of lights. I just wanna see how flush they are compare to panel. Im trying to make them flush without using the stock trim, just a lense.
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so ive been working on alot of lil things to finish up the car and also making some of my own personel touches to make the car different.
im currently working on making flush mounted taillights, installing front splitter supports from joes racing products, and installing all the door weatherstripping and door cards.
I plan on adding a small spoiler of the back of the trunk maybe an inch or 2 tall and angled. Gonna be made of steel and welded on. I know theres carbon fiber/ fiberglass options but there to big for my liking. I also plan on making my own radiator grill cover http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/GrillParts/grill_masks.htm
Future plans:
T5 trans swap from C4.
Roll cage
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I don't know if this is just a mock up so far or what but I think using regular clear plexiglass might be illegal no matter how much red tint you throw on it. You really need to have something with refracting angles on the inside like an original lens, like say on a panel from a drop ceiling fluorescent light for example.legal? its a classic car thats never gonna need inspection so it shouldnt be an issue. If so I pop them out and put stockers back.
thanks for the link to other guys build. Its crazy how used parts of the stock taillights and trim ring. Came out really nice but im looking for something more flush with no trim rings.
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So I decided i wanted to take on this project to make my car a lil different from other 69s.
Im re-using the taillight housings but ditching the factory lenses. Heres a couple pics of the progress so far.
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what part usually fails in the mechanism that causes the brake to not release. I've seen refurbished mechs on cjpony parts so there must be an at home fix I can do to make in function properly.
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according to modern driveline site, you can use the cable type with long tubes but its not covered under warranty if it breaks.
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I plan on using hydraulic clutch. I talked to bruce at modern driveline yesterday.
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Im looking into doing a T5 swap and I wanted to make sure that there wont be any issues with the long tube headers hitting the external slave cylinder or anything else.
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is there a trick to installing these rubber pieces into the mechs holes? See pic
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mines to lose to stay on, guess I need to replace it then
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I need the part that attaches to arm to here.
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what keeps the arm from the door mech to the back of the door lock on?
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Dave I was wondering whose serpentine belt system you used?.Mike.
wow I had to go back in ebay archives to find this info.
heres the alternator bracket
pulley kit
power steering bracket
theres a couple kits online that have the alt and PS brackets together where you can save some money. My pulley kit was only $90 but I havent been able to find it for that much now
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LOVE the color!
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wow I cant believe I havent updated my build in almost a year. So since my last update, the car is running, brakes all work, lighting is done, still have some elec fan wiring to complete.
Just need to finish paint, insure and register to get her road worthy. Then begins the process of upgrading her. Manual swap and possibly dropping the 390FE in it that i picked up last year.
heres a pic of how she currently sits.
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no takers on this stuff? Im gonna junk it if no one wants it, need the room
Picked up another stang
in The Garage
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Bought my first modern stang over the weekend.
2012 GT Premium package, Shaker system and 6 speed.
This is my first manual car and its a ball to drive. Alsready ordered an axle back exhaust from Pypes for the car. Cant wait to throw it on.