rchappelear

steering column cover and rubber insulator grommet SOLD

Seat backs and hood hinges SOLD

more photos

additional photos of parts for sale

additional photos of parts

-Black above glove box delete panel $40.00 -Strut rod new (CJ sent me the wrong side and didn't return in time for a refund) $30.00 -steering column cover and rubber insulator grommet $30.00 -ash tray assembly non console car w/light wire assembly $40.00 -headlight buckets and trim $40.00 -new scott drake ignition switch $10.00 -hog rings w/ pliers $15.00 -seat backs $30.00 -deluxe interior door panel cups plastic $10.00 -original hood hinges blasted and painted $40.00

truck light bracket and wiring no cracks or cuts in insulation $40

here are a few pictures of the wiring harness

i have a new pad and trim piece that i will through in with the deal

here are a few pic of the brake assembly it works fine, just need to clean/blast and paint

So i purchased the classic auto air perfect fit kit. I have assembled the main controls per the instructions.... Just read and verify before drilling some errors on the instructions! I go to install the controls in the lower dash and the new "slide" controls on the back side are rubbing on the fram of the lower dash. Not only that but one of the controls hangs below the lower dash. I have to really push on the control panel to lay flat with the lower dash face to screw on, thus putting pressure on the slide control rods. I did not see any information on the installation of this on their instructions. Do any of you guys have suggestions from past experiences? ryan

I have an 1969 mustang parking brake assembly with the "Brake Warning Light" This includes the following Parking brake Wiring harness in really good shape, no cuts attached is the light assembly it does not come with the following chrome bezel w/lens. ryan make offer

I bought it from CJ Pony Parts their are other suppliers out there though. Just do a search on New Vintage USA the cj pony part number is New Vintage USA: 67408-01 and runs around $770 currently They have another gauge set up but is around $1200 The wiring directions are much much better than the installation instructions, plus it comes with all the compatible sensors (oil, tranny, water temp sending units) A+ on this part. D- on the installation instructions

yeah i can see the glare/halo being an issue, will be a better gauge once in the car. Also the supplied instructions say to not use the factory lenses, probably due to this .... just looks cleaner with the factory lenses

Please let me know if you have any comments, edits, additions photos, or questions for me

Rotate assembled bezel w/gauges Place hand on one of the gauge mounting cups, rotate the mounting cup till the gauge is in the desired position. The tighten down the #8 32 Brass nuts... I really only used my hands, i did not want to distort the Plastic cup with the torque a wrench would apply. *this is how i assembled my gauges, i am not sure if this is how the factory wanted these installed, but again no real clean installation instructions, photos, or mounting hardware. I hope this aids you in your assembly and please be careful with the unit, their is a lot of expensive part here!!!

-slide on your lens onto the alignment bosses on the bezel -install your modified factory gauge spacer -align your NVU gauge assembly on the spacer. -measure out the gap between the assembly and the bezel screw hole. -cut your nylon spacer to size. -Take your #6 1" screw, washer and nylon spacer and screw the assembly onto the bezel (leave some slack) -Repeat the last step on the opposite bezel screw hole. -Align the gauge to the bezel, then tighten screws with equal pressure to retain desired gauge alignment.

The side gauges are next. This requires modification to your stock Gauge spacers. Their is two flat alignment tabs that are going to be cut so the new gauges will fit flush to the spacers. I took nibblers or cutters to cut these tabs off. You may need to take a file afterwards to make more flush.

I installed the Spedo and Tach assembly first. Lay the bezel so the back side is facing up install the lens through the location pins install the gauge spacer (factory original spacer) Install the speed/tach assembly face down, with the top tabs aligning with the top holes and the bottom outer holes inline with the bezel holes. don't worry that these holes do not touch the assembly, that is what the nylon spacers are for. -Screw in the factory original screws (#6 1/2") w/washer at the top holes of the assembly (do not over tighten leave some slack) -Press down, gently, on the bottom portion of assembly to measure out your space between assembly and bezel screw holes. -cut your nylon spacer to your measurement -take a #6 1 1/4" screw, washer and modified nylon spacer, screw in the bottom outer bezel screw holes. -now tighten down each screw with equal pressure to align assembly properly with your bezel.

this is the first thing i did, does not mean you can do other steps first. -Take the instrument gauge and tach, slide onto the supplied NVU plate. -on the reverse side slide retainer cups over brass studs -install washer, lock washer then brass nut -hand tighten only. over tightening can cause distortion in the retaining cup and possibly affect the operation of the gauges. Need to keep these hand tight so you can visually align the gauge later in the installation process.

So I purchased the NVU gauge kit for the 69 mustang and was disappointed in the lack of directions and installation hardware. I wanted to share with everyone on here what i ended up doing to install the gauges to the instrument bezel. Needed: #2 Phillips head screw driver Nipper / cutters #6 sheet metal screws 1" long 4ea #6 sheet metal screws 1 1/4" long 2ea Factory instrument screws or 1/2" #6 sheet metal screws 2ea #6 washers 8ea Nylon spacers (other material is fine, just easy to cut the nylon to size) NVU supplied kit instrument bezel gauge spacers gauge lenses

i was thinking of removing the rubber on the stop, and replace it with the rubber dip you can by at a local hardware store. They call it plati-dip???? i guess its used to rubber coat metal handles on tools. Though that would be a good replacement if needed. Mine seem to be in good shape and decided to leave it alone. i would say its an option down the road if needed

The tint shop here in town said they would not tint till the windows were installed. They say that you could scratch the tint during installation... i believe them after installing the glass

more photos

So i am planning on tinting my windows on my car. I noticed when installing the window stops into the doors the "L" shaped stop felt was in poor shape along with sharp debris stuck in the felt. I purchased 3/4 wide self sticking velcro strips as replacements. I used nibblers to roll back the metal from the existing felt on both top and bottom. I removed the old felt (leaving behind the black rubber buildup stuff). I cut about 1/8" off the 3/4" felt to fit snug into the metal channel. place the new felt in the channel and used the tip of a needle nose to re-roll the metal to lock the felt into place. Double check the felt area to make sure their is no sharp edges sticking up that could scratch the tint or glass when installed. Took about 30min to do both and a little soar fingers from the tools.