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rchappelear

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Posts posted by rchappelear

  1. Posted · Report reply

    So I purchased a mustang Steve brake kit part number GT2008-FT

    Everything fits like a glove but the rotor does not go on to the hub fully due to th extra length of the wheel stub knurle.

    Did anyone else have this issue? I was wondering if I replace these studs with a new set 1/2-20 w/a .625 knurel. Knurel length of say .4, would that be a better option

  2. Posted · Report reply

    .

     

    for photos you can do the following.

     

     

     

    1. type the following and include the brackets

     

    2. go down 1 line and post the url to the photo.

     

    3. type /img at the end of the url and add brackets to both sides like the one in the first line . . you need to include the forward slash.

     

    4. now delete the space between the and the url.

     

    5. hit send.

     

     

     

     

     

    Slip%20yoke%20CV5%20headsmall.jpg

     

    .

    yeah thats not complicated ... just need our paper clips

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Hi there,

     

    Any difference whether the windows are up or down?

     

    I had s similar issue and it was in fact due to window weatherstrip (the one that slides along the rear edge) hitting the quarter window when window was up. Solving it was a matter of adjusting window to door angle.

     

    G

    no i have not cranked down the windows and tried to close the windows

    i will try that tonight

    ryan

  5. Posted · Report reply

    I agree it is the door gaskets ,they are much firmer than the originals .Went throught the same thing after restoring a 67 coupe for my cousin .After a couple of weeks the doors gaskets loosened up a bit .

    they have been on the car for a few months now (gaskets)  they are the scott drake or carpetner products. they don't seem to be hard

  6. Posted · Report reply

    so i just got my car back from the painters and it has a new lock mech, rubbers seals, hinges, and striker.  problem i have is you have to really slam it to get the doors to close.  I mean really slam it like your mad.  I dont think this is right, some people have said cause its new rubbers, but i am starting to disagree. 

     

    my only though it the latching mech are not the best reproductions and this is a reason for having to slam the door shut

  14. Posted · Report reply

    called TCP twice on the big block mounts and sounds like it would be a big undertaking to do this. the Tech kept referring to use shims to drop the rack and shims to raise the engine block.

    I know i am limited on dropping the rack due to the lower control arm bracket holes.

    I know i am limited on raising the engine due to the TKO600 clearing the tunnel.

     

    I am going to try to drop the rack as much as i can ( possibly 1/8")

    if that is not enough i will raise the engine as much as i can with out the tranny hitting the tunnel.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    I purchased a new stock front suspension kit with 1" lowering springs.

    The only thing that is not stock is the TCP manual rack.

     

    After installing the upper arm, lower arm, perch, springs, and spindles did we notice a horrible negative camber when the car was set down.

     

    I maxed out the lower control arm camber adjustment bolt, which helped some, but still is ridiculous.

    Even when we added the engine for weight is didn't make much difference.

     

    The only thing i can think of is that they possible sent me parts that are not to spec???

     

    Has anyone else had major camber issues when installing new suspension parts?

     

    The only reason i say that they maybe bad parts is the front end sit up very high.... That is not what i expected from 1" lowering springs.

     

    If it weren't for the $2600 price tag on the TCP suspension kit, i would just go that route.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    I first installed my TCP manual rack into my 69 mustang. followed by my 351w motor with a Canton high capacity oil pan, with tko600 mounted to it.

    I purchased the ron morris engine mounts for both stock and the 1/2 drop option.

     

    I installed the engine and trany hoping it would fit with the stock height but would not fit, so we swapped to the 1/2 drop and the engine trans comb fit perfectly.

     

    I just noticed today that the TCP rack inner right and left boots are being pinched up against the oil pan. I have only about a 1/4" clearance between the rack shaft and the canton oil pan.

     

    besides modifying the tunnel so i can use the stock height engine mounts to make clearance, i was wondering if i could possibly take a mallet to the oil pan and add and additional 1/4" or less clearance. (of course i don't want to compromise the through of my crank shaft)

     

    what are your thoughts

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