CarZombie
-
Content Count
82 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by CarZombie
-
-
sleek98,
you may beat me to the punch. I am very busy at work right now and work is where I usually make my phone calls and check stuff on the web. Thank you very much for mentioning the bracket.
I will let you know what I do, please do the same.
-
sleek98,
Here is the link to the Old Air underhood performance kit for the 69/70 Mustang: http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=50-0020&x=20&y=11
You will note the catalog says this for 302/428 and it provides the price. I never found this on line. I called them and they gave me the 50-0020 part number and said it would work for the 351C. I called all of the Big 3, Vintage, Classic, and Old Air, and explained I had factory air and only needed the underhood components. Vintage does not have an underhood kit. So it is between Classic and Old Air.
sleek98, let me know what you decided. I hope to get mine ordered very soon.
nymustang1969, Thanks for the feedback. That is what I was looking for.
-
sleek98,
Here is the link to the Old Air underhood performance kit for the 69/70 Mustang: http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=50-0020&x=20&y=11
You will note the catalog says this for 302/428 and it provides the price. I never found this on line. I called them and they gave me the 50-0020 part number and said it would work for the 351C. I called all of the Big 3, Vintage, Classic, and Old Air, and explained I had factory air and only needed the underhood components. Vintage does not have an underhood kit. So it is between Classic and Old Air.
sleek98, let me know what you decided. I hope to get mine ordered very soon.
nymustang1969, Thanks for the feedback. That is what I was looking for.
-
I had Holleys during my younger days. I never, never, never, had any luck with them. They all ended up crapping out and causing all types of problems. I went back to stock from Pony Carbs (link: http://ponycarburetors.com/). I can not say Pony carbs/stock is the best, and alot of people like Holley, but for me never again.
-
I had Holleys during my younger days. I never, never, never, had any luck with them. They all ended up crapping out and causing all types of problems. I went back to stock from Pony Carbs (link: http://ponycarburetors.com/). I can not say Pony carbs/stock is the best, and alot of people like Holley, but for me never again.
-
The AC (factory) compressor in my Mustang (1970 convertible/ 351C engine) died last fall. For many reason, it is only now that I am able to replace it. I am going to upgrade to the Sanden compressor with 134a refrigerant. My plan is to go with engine compartment upgrade system from either Old Air Products or Classic Auto Air. Both have a kit that includes the compressor, condenser, hoses, drier and expansion valve. The only difference I see is Classic Auto Air wants $789 for its kit and does not list a compressor safety switch in the kit. The old Air Kit is priced at $580 with a compressor safety switch.
The question is this; does anyone have any firsthand experience with these kits and companies? Any feedback would be appreciated.
-
The AC (factory) compressor in my Mustang (1970 convertible/ 351C engine) died last fall. For many reason, it is only now that I am able to replace it. I am going to upgrade to the Sanden compressor with 134a refrigerant. My plan is to go with engine compartment upgrade system from either Old Air Products or Classic Auto Air. Both have a kit that includes the compressor, condenser, hoses, drier and expansion valve. The only difference I see is Classic Auto Air wants $789 for its kit and does not list a compressor safety switch in the kit. The old Air Kit is priced at $580 with a compressor safety switch.
The question is this; does anyone have any firsthand experience with these kits and companies? Any feedback would be appreciated.
-
I maybe missing something here, but if it is power brakes, then you have a booster between the master cylinder and the firewall. If it is manual brake, then the master cylinder is attached straight to the firewall.
As for bleeding, I think you are better off to bleed the whole system once you have it back on. You should be able to remove it with out bleeding the whole system. However, you may want to fllush the system and refill with fresh brake fluid since your removing the master cylinder.
Frankly, I would not remove the master cylinder just to paint it. To me the pain in the ass vs gain ratio is not worth it. I would would be worried about getting the air out and would take it to have it power bleed to be sure.
-
I maybe missing something here, but if it is power brakes, then you have a booster between the master cylinder and the firewall. If it is manual brake, then the master cylinder is attached straight to the firewall.
As for bleeding, I think you are better off to bleed the whole system once you have it back on. You should be able to remove it with out bleeding the whole system. However, you may want to fllush the system and refill with fresh brake fluid since your removing the master cylinder.
Frankly, I would not remove the master cylinder just to paint it. To me the pain in the ass vs gain ratio is not worth it. I would would be worried about getting the air out and would take it to have it power bleed to be sure.
-
Got to agree with jholmes217, as Neil Young said, "Rust never sleeps." Look the car over for rust with a fine tooth comb. You are in CA you deserve a rust free car and should be able to find one. Mechanical problems can be fixed. Rust will always be eating away at your car. I know, my Mustang has the rust.
One thing about being in the LA area, there are a lot of pepole who repair or provided parts for Mustangs. The brake noise maybe the booster leaking. Last time that happened to me, I was living in Ca and sent it to a shop in LA for repair/rebuild.
Steering could be anything from the steering box needing adjustment to various worn steering parts. That could be costly or it could be a simple fix.
If the car never had A/C it can be added, it it had it and it is just down it can be fixed.
I would find out why that rear blinker does not work. If it is not the bulb, then you could be in a world of hurt with an electrical problem.
Can not say if it is worth it or not because I have not priced Mustangs in a while
-
Got to agree with jholmes217, as Neil Young said, "Rust never sleeps." Look the car over for rust with a fine tooth comb. You are in CA you deserve a rust free car and should be able to find one. Mechanical problems can be fixed. Rust will always be eating away at your car. I know, my Mustang has the rust.
One thing about being in the LA area, there are a lot of pepole who repair or provided parts for Mustangs. The brake noise maybe the booster leaking. Last time that happened to me, I was living in Ca and sent it to a shop in LA for repair/rebuild.
Steering could be anything from the steering box needing adjustment to various worn steering parts. That could be costly or it could be a simple fix.
If the car never had A/C it can be added, it it had it and it is just down it can be fixed.
I would find out why that rear blinker does not work. If it is not the bulb, then you could be in a world of hurt with an electrical problem.
Can not say if it is worth it or not because I have not priced Mustangs in a while
-
Back in early Dec of last year my turn signals and emergency flashers went out. Here are links for my two posts regarding the problems.
http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=9185
http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=9219
It was very frustrating because sometimes I would have power to the hot side of the flasher terminals and sometimes I would not. The emergency flasher finally stopped having power in the hot wire completely. The turn signals would flash once and then stop. I thought the flasher was burning out each time this happened. I spent hours trying to trace wires and looking for shorts, bad connections, loose wires, etc. On the 3rd of May, I gave up and made an appointment to take the car into a shop the following Monday. Over the weekend, I decided I would look like a real dummy if it was a bad fuse (even though I knew it was not a fuse), so I decided to check the emergency flasher fuse one last time. I had checked the fuses before, but never took t hem out of the fuse block. This time, I took the fuse out, checked it and put it back in. The fuse was good, but a little voice said, “Check the flasher one last time. I did and I had emergency flashers. So I pulled the fuse for the turn signals, cleaned the fuse holder and put the fuse back in. I had turn signals. That was on the 7th of May. Since that time I have driven the car almost every work day and put over 500 miles on it with no more problems.
In hindsight it is all so clear, the terminals or fuse holders, were dirty and just like dirty terminals will do, sometimes they would let the little electrons through and sometimes they would not. I figure when the flasher flashed the first time, it needed more juice to flash the second time and the dirty terminals would not deliver. Other problems were a result of having a bad driver side parking/turn signal light and a loose connection between the turn signal switch and the main wire harness.
No matter how many times I work with electrical problems, I always seem to forget to START WITH THE SIMPLEST THINGS FIRST, and then move to the more complex. I hope this helps someone, somewhere. It sure is nice to have the Mustang back.
-
Back in early Dec of last year my turn signals and emergency flashers went out. Here are links for my two posts regarding the problems.
http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=9185
http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=9219
It was very frustrating because sometimes I would have power to the hot side of the flasher terminals and sometimes I would not. The emergency flasher finally stopped having power in the hot wire completely. The turn signals would flash once and then stop. I thought the flasher was burning out each time this happened. I spent hours trying to trace wires and looking for shorts, bad connections, loose wires, etc. On the 3rd of May, I gave up and made an appointment to take the car into a shop the following Monday. Over the weekend, I decided I would look like a real dummy if it was a bad fuse (even though I knew it was not a fuse), so I decided to check the emergency flasher fuse one last time. I had checked the fuses before, but never took t hem out of the fuse block. This time, I took the fuse out, checked it and put it back in. The fuse was good, but a little voice said, “Check the flasher one last time. I did and I had emergency flashers. So I pulled the fuse for the turn signals, cleaned the fuse holder and put the fuse back in. I had turn signals. That was on the 7th of May. Since that time I have driven the car almost every work day and put over 500 miles on it with no more problems.
In hindsight it is all so clear, the terminals or fuse holders, were dirty and just like dirty terminals will do, sometimes they would let the little electrons through and sometimes they would not. I figure when the flasher flashed the first time, it needed more juice to flash the second time and the dirty terminals would not deliver. Other problems were a result of having a bad driver side parking/turn signal light and a loose connection between the turn signal switch and the main wire harness.
No matter how many times I work with electrical problems, I always seem to forget to START WITH THE SIMPLEST THINGS FIRST, and then move to the more complex. I hope this helps someone, somewhere. It sure is nice to have the Mustang back.
-
Can you give me a link, so I can review your problems? I thought they had better Customer Service when they were in New York. I suspect they were smaller then. My main grip is their answer is alway more advance in the ignition timing.
I had a Holley 600 in the mid 80's and HATED it. Never ran right, leaked, crappy gas mileage, etc. I would take a Pony Carb 4300 over it any day, but that was 30 years ago and a bunch of people swear by Holleys.
-
I have used Pony Carbs (http://www.ponycarburetors.com/default.asp) on my 1970 convertible since 1990. My engine is a 351C, 4 barrel heads, stock cam and intake, bored .30 over (rebuild), with headers. The carb is a 4300 Autolite. Trans is an FMX. The last time I purchased/had my carb rebuilt by them was in December of 2008. For a number of reasons, the car was driven very little in 2008. I drove it a good amount in 2009, over 3000 miles and about 2900 miles in 2010. In late 2010, I noticed a HUGE bog during full throttle acceleration and black smoke pouring out of the tail pipe. I have always had a little full throttle bog, but no black smoke.
I am assuming it is time to send it back for a rebuild. How often do you have to rebuild your carb or have it done? Has anyone else had experience with the 4300 Autolite or other Pony carbs? Any suggestions for an alternative carb for this engine?
-
Got this link off another forum. It not about a 69 or 70, but it is super cool about driving the Bullitt route with the original stunt driver.
-
I have been having turn signal/electrical problems and posted on them here: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=9185
Thanks to the suggestions made in the original post I have solved most of the problems. See below for full details. The two problems I have now are these:
1. I have no emergency or 4 way flashers. Today, the emergency flashers would work for a while and then stop. Then they would start again. There was no rhyme or reason for why they would start and stop. I think the most I ran them was 5 minutes and they did not stop until I stop them. Then they would not work again. I am loosing power on the hot side of the flasher, i.e., the hot wire goes cold. I have power at the fuse box, so it is not the fuse or the fuse box. When I look at the wire diagrams, it appears the hot wire should run straight from the fuse box to the hot side of the emergency flasher. I am talking about the actual flasher not the switch. When I have power, everything works. Before I have to take the dash apart to trace the hot wire, any suggestions?
2. The driver side (LH) turn signal/running light located below the front bumper will signal a turn fine, if no headlights are on. Turn on the headlights/running lights and the turn signal still works, but it is very dim. Turn the headlights/running lights off and the turn signal is as bright as the other side. Suggestions on what could cause this?
If I can get these two problems worked out, I can start driving the car again. I am not too worried about the emergency flasher, but the dim front driver side turn signal with headlights is a real puzzle for me.
And if you’re interested, here is what I found and how I solved the problems in the original post. It appears I lost the turn signals because of a bad connection in the connector holding the flasher. I was probing the hot side of the turn signal connector and suddenly got a good current flow. I wiggled the wire and it came and went. I pushed the wire hard and heard a click. After that I had a good hot wire and the turn signal started working.
I found the brake light/turn signal wire for the passenger side rear had pulled out of the turn signal wire harness connector; again a good push on the wire and my passenger side brake light/turn signal was working again.
I really appreciate all the help on the original post and the help I am sure I will get on this post.
-
:helpsmilie:In early December 2010, my turn signals stopped working, I thought it might be a burned out bulb, but found all turn signals worked when the emergency flasher was engaged. I replaced the turn signal flasher and the passenger side or RH side flashed, but the driver side or LH turn signals still would not work. For some reason (I really don’t know why) I tried the running lights and found I did not have running lights on the LH side. They are fine on the RH side. I was befuddled by this and tried the turn signals again. I found if I had the running lights on, and then tried the turn signal on the LH side, I got a couple of flashes, but the turn signal flasher would burn out. I then replaced the turn signal switch, thinking there was a short in the turn signal switch. No dice, same problem. I then replaced the headlight switch, but still had the problem with the turn signal/running lights. In fact after I replaced the headlight switch, the emergency flasher burned out after only a couple of flashes. Obviously there is either a short or a ground issue, but the thought of trying to trace out all those wire almost leaves me in tears.
Has anyone had a similar problem and if so how did you fix it? I have a schematic, but for the life of me, and my Mustang, I am unable to figure out how I could use it to help me with this problem. Oh I should also note that after all this started, I lost the RH or passenger side rear brake light. No juice in the wire coming from the junction in the drive side of the trunk. Car is a 1970 Mustang Convertible.
I HATE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS!!!
-
Try some gas treatment. Years and I mean years ago, a friend of mine had multipe problems with a jet boat motor (car engine). He finally figured out it was water in the gas and put in some STP gas treatment. That fixed the problem enough that he could run that tank out. You could also pump some of the gas out into a bottle look for signs of water. Let the gast rest a while and the water should separate out.
You might want to ask the carb shop if ethonal (spelling?) in the gas could affect the carb.
-
In my 1970 Mustang I have a cardboard divider between the trunk and the convertible top well. Here are a couple of pictures of it. http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff465/GaGunner/Mustang/IMG_1114.jpg and this picture http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff465/GaGunner/Mustang/IMG_1115.jpg
As you can see, it has about had it. So far as I know it is original. I have owned the car since 1973. I have not seen this for sale. I would like to up grade to a steel or fiberglass unit. Can any one help me on this? Is there a "technical name" for it? By the way, it is not the trunk/rear seat steel dividers sold by the Mustang parts houses. I bought one of those and this is what it looks like; http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff465/GaGunner/Mustang/IMG_1123.jpg
Thanks much.
-
I have a Stainless Steel conversion that I put on in the mid-80's. My car is a 1970 Mustang with 351C. A stock Disc Front and Drum Rear Master Cylinder has a check valve in the master cylinder port for the rear brakes. The check valve keeps about 4 psi of pressure in the line so the drum brakes don't totally disengage. As I recall, Stainless Steel Brakes gave instructions on how to remove the check valve, but the last time I had to replace my master cylinder, I just bought another from Stainless Steel Brake Crop. As for your question on the power brake booster, I used my stock power brake booster as nothing change regarding it.
-
My A/C compressor has gone out. I have a 1970 Mustang convertible with factory A/C. Engine is a 351C. I believe I have the York compressor. Somewhere down the line it developed a leak in one of the compressor seals and it is now making a grinding noise when the A/C clutch is engaged. The system has R-12 in it. My A/C mechanic said when the new compressor is installed the system needs to be switched to R-134a.
I would like opinions and information on the pros and cons of the following: Can and should I just get a remanufactured York compressor, evacuate the system, install the replacement compressor, replace the drier, and refill with the R-134a. This is what the AC mechanic is saying he would do. However, I have read some reports that R-134a will destroy the seals in an R-12 system over time, and the expansion valve needs to be replaced. Of course I have read other reports that say, just do it (as outline above) and you will be fine. Any real life experiences out there?
As I see it, my other option is to go to a Sanden A/C compressor conversion kit with the R134a. I understand these are a lighter weight compressor and supposedly give you better mileage with the A/C on. That would be nice as my current A/C costs me about 1 to 2 MPG when it is running. Has some one done this conversion? Is it worth the extra money? Does it look right for the car? Again, any real life experiences out there?
Thanks much and please add any other thoughts you have on this.
-
First off, please forgive my spelling. I am exhausted, it has been a long day.
I have the radiator out of my 1970 Mustang, 351C, with factory A/C. Since everything is nice and open, I would like to replace the pulley on the fixed, non adjustable idler pulley. This is the idler pulley on the lower driver side of the car. IT IS NOT THE Adjustable or tensioner pulley. I can not find an after market complete bracket and pulley and I can not see any way of removing only the old pully to replace it. There is no bolt holding the pulley on and there is no C clip. Has anyone dealt with this? Any help would be appreciated.
-
Could it be the power booster is bad? I have had mine rebuilt twice in the 37 years I have had my Mustang. Trouble is, I can not remember what it did when it went bad.
Any value for old AC compressor/condenser?
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
I am in the process of replacing all my under hood AC parts with parts from Classic Auto Air so I can upgrade to the Sanden compressor and the R134 refrigerant.
Do the old condenser and compressor have any value? How about the original Clutch and pully for the compressor? Both have been open to the humid GA air for about 3 weeks. The compressor was leaking oil and making a grinding noise when I pulled it (the reason for the upgrade). I am thinking this all junk, but want to ask.