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ForceFed70

Sometimes I hate myself.

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After messing with the steering colum last night I couldn't get the car to start. Voltmeter at the ignition switch showed +12V with the key in the "start" position, but no voltage at the starter solenoid.

 

I ended up checking every fuse, took the whole dash apart, and traced wires for a good 2 hours. Finally I gave up and decided I'd just run a new wire from the switch to solenoid. But then I realized that I couldn't do that as it would bypass the neutral safety switch...and that's when it hit me. DOH!!

 

When doing the T5 swap this winter I decided to use the neutral safety switch instead of installing a clutch pedal switch. Of course I have yet to drive the car with new T5 and so I totally forgot about it..

 

Over 2 hours down the drain and I still have to put the dash back together. :thumbdown:

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Well with you saying that,maybe you can help me out with my problem.The mustang was origanlly manual,but the owner before me decied to make it auto! now talking about the netural safty switch!! the previous owner ran a bypass wire from the the ignition switch to a hot wire from a diffrent part of the harness,basiclly bypassing something? I hooked up the original wire that was supose to go there and the car did not want to start.So what Im am thinking is that maybe the reason for the car not starting,is that It has something to do with that neutral safty switch?? maybe switching from manul to auto,the neutral safty switch has to do some thing with that bypassed wire!!

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Hmmm.. does the engine crank over but not start, or not crank at all? The neutral safety switch only stops the starter from cranking, it shouldn't effect ignition power.

 

With an auto, there is a wire connector on the firewall that went to the shifter. It has 4 wires, 2 for park/neutral and 2 for reverse lights.

 

There is a special circuit for ignition power. It's unique in that it provides +12V when the key is in both the crank and run position. Most circuits in the car only have +12V when the key is in the run position(or +12V all the time). If the previous owner tapped into one of these hot wires (only hot while in run) you'd have a very hard time getting the car to start as the spark plugs wouldn't be firing while the engine is cranking.

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