I'm getting nowhere fast here..

[*JackBurton* 0]

ongoing no spark problem with my 69. I ran a jumper wire from the + side of the battery to the postive side of the coil. Left the white wire to the module connected to the the I terminal on the solenoid. I go to crank the system and I get no spark. red wire is still connected to the brown wire.

 

ok so I replace the coil. Run the same setup and I get no spark. thought I had something for a second but nothing. I really have no idea what's going on here. I've checked the duraspark harness between the dizzy and the box and signal passes through it. Shouldn't I get something by running positive straight off the battery?

 

Is the module dead? If so how do I figure it out? (Yes I've read the troubleshoot on autozone but its rather greek to me)

 

Every writeup I look at has a different wiring diagram. Some put the white wire on the s terminal. Some take the red wire from the module and run it to the another wire coming from the ignition that then goes to the coil. Some say you can use the resistance wire (pink) others say no.

 

This is what I'm using right now:

 

should I go with this?

 

Any help would be great.

[BAMF69 11]

The second one is correct, that's how i wired my car. Try that and if that dosen't work check your coil wires and how you connected them since you have no spark.

 

This is the same one but with less complicated drawings.

[*JackBurton* 0]

I went down and ran a new wire where the pink wire used to be. Then connected it and the red wire from the module together and routed them to the + on the coil. end result nothing. I have power running out to the positive post in the coil.

[BAMF69 11]

Ok, I used this to give me an idea of how to wire the car and what are the original wires i need to re-route. it's from a 68 mustang but should be the same wiring for a 69 on the ignition side. I think there is one wire on the duraspark module that goes to the starter side but let me do a search and see what i find.

 

Ok, so when you turn the key you should have power turning on and off right?

 

 

http://www.hammar.dyndns.org/wiring/1968/E5.jpg

[BAMF69 11]

I just notice that the two diagrams have the starter solenoid wires mixed up. One says to connect the white wire to the I and the other to the S..

[*JackBurton* 0]

I saw the same thing but most of the write ups talk about I terminal being used for 12v crank source -- I went with I. As of right now with the exception of the white wire running to the I terminal I'm wired as the second diragram.

 

I've got full lights turn signals brakes interior lights you name it. When I turn the key the motor cranks but I get no spark from the coil nor any sound clicks from the duraspark unit. I do have power to the duraspark unit and coil.

[BAMF69 11]

let me troubleshoot this...

 

DURASPARK BOX > DISTRIBUTOR - PRETTY EASY STRAIGHT WIRING

 

DURASPARK BOX > COIL - WE KNOW THE GREEN GOES ON THE - OF THE COIL

 

I think i got it by looking at both diagrams...

 

Black/yellow stripe goes to the battery or the + terminal on the starter relay.

 

Blue/red stripe wire goes to the S on the the starter relay.

 

White wire goes on the S on the starter relay too.

 

Red/Green is disconnected

 

Brown is connected to the + on the coil

 

Red from the durspark box is connected to the + on the coil too.

 

Try this and let me know if it worked.

[BAMF69 11]

Yeah the I terminal is used for a mini starter found on the newer fox body mustangs. The problem has to be somewhere between the wiring to the coil, the coil itself, or the wiring to the distributor.

[*JackBurton* 0]

let me troubleshoot this...

 

DURASPARK BOX > DISTRIBUTOR - PRETTY EASY STRAIGHT WIRING

 

DURASPARK BOX > COIL - WE KNOW THE GREEN GOES ON THE - OF THE COIL

 

I think i got it by looking at both diagrams...

 

Black/yellow stripe goes to the battery or the + terminal on the starter relay.

 

Blue/red stripe wire goes to the S on the the starter relay.

 

White wire goes on the S on the starter relay too.

 

Red/Green is disconnected

 

Brown is connected to the + on the coil

 

Red from the durspark box is connected to the + on the coil too.

 

Try this and let me know if it worked.

 

Ok I've got the following:

 

Black/Yellow is connected at the battery side of the solenoid. I cleaned and reattached.

 

I've got blue/red at the "s" terminal it works the motor cranks.

 

White is not on -since it only helps with retarding the timing. I figure get it out of the loop.

 

green/red is off: this is the old + coil wire off the '69 harness its the product of brown and pink-resistor wire merging.

 

I've got red coming from the duraspark module. If I leave brown on it will deliver 12v crank to the coil from the I terminal on the solenoid. In my harness in order for brown to make it to the coil green/red must be hooked up.

 

I found a troubleshooting manual from ford I'm going to test the module and pickup in the morning. <-- I hope.

[BAMF69 11]

It's a pretty basic idea, depending on the position of the switch it should open and close the circuit. Get a test light and test each wire with the postion of the switch. The wires that should be connected are the black/yellow and the red/blue wire to S on the starter relay, this completes the circuit when you turn the key.

 

The white wire is used to send a signal to the ignition box to retard the timing so this has to be connected to the S on the starter relay. The red cable has to be connected to a hot in start and run source so this is either the brown or the red/green . Use a test light and check that you have power when you turn the key. Once you connect these it should give power to the coil and it should start up. If it dosen't maybe the ignition box is bad or the coil is bad.

 

You can run a wire from the ignition switch to the ignition box so you can bypass the resistor wire and give 12v directly to the ignition box when the key is on the on position.

[*JackBurton* 0]

It's a pretty basic idea, depending on the position of the switch it should open and close the circuit. Get a test light and test each wire with the postion of the switch. The wires that should be connected are the black/yellow and the red/blue wire to S on the starter relay, this completes the circuit when you turn the key.

 

The white wire is used to send a signal to the ignition box to retard the timing so this has to be connected to the S on the starter relay. The red cable has to be connected to a hot in start and run source so this is either the brown or the red/green . Use a test light and check that you have power when you turn the key. Once you connect these it should give power to the coil and it should start up. If it dosen't maybe the ignition box is bad or the coil is bad.

 

You can run a wire from the ignition switch to the ignition box so you can bypass the resistor wire and give 12v directly to the ignition box when the key is on the on position.

 

I went back this morning and looked again. I went with straight 12v out to the duraspark from the ignition and into the coil as well. Switched modules and still got nothing. I guess I'm looking at a bum dizzy at this point. or mag pickup.

 

quick fyi when I have a timing light on it. I just get a faint strobe in relation of the motor turning over?

[BAMF69 11]

You are using the blue grommet module right?

 

Did you put a test light on the coil? If you did this did you have a constant light or a flashing light? It should flash...if not it's the module. Maybe both are bad? who knows at this point.

 

I don't think it's the pick up on the distributor, they don't get damaged easily and im sure it's wired right to the distributor since it's only 2 wires and a ground.

 

 

look at this link for some info..

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/DurasparkII.html

 

try looking at the bronco forums...

 

At this point i would take the whole ignition system off and test each part even the starter relay.

[*JackBurton* 0]

Ok started doing a test and made what I think is a discovery. While getting ready to do some tests I had left the battery connected while I made lunch.

Came back down and had the coil blow up. Oil and smoke everywhere. Detached the battery. Only damage was to the coil batterythe rest of the car, house, and myself check out. I'm wondering if the motor isn't grounded? I'm going to check my ground strap after it rains but i've got to wonder. The dursapark grounds through the dizzy and the back of the module.

 

Anywho onto the test results.

 

Old Coil that didn't blow up:

Primary coil test + - .8 -1.6 ohms = 1.4 OK

2ndary coil test + to coil tower 7.7k -10.5k ohms = 9.4k OK

 

Stator Test:

Between Orange and Purple at dizzy connector 400-1300 ohms = 680 OK

Between Orange and Purple at module connector 400-1300 ohms =660 OK

 

Ground Circuit Cont. At

Black wire to dizzy base less than 10ohm = 2 ohm OK

 

So dizzy and old coil check out. The wiring between the module and the dizzy check out. I've got a ground to the module from the dizzy.

 

I'll do more once the rain stops and after I clean up my car.

[BAMF69 11]

I'm pretty sure your going to be like wtf it was just the ground strap on my engine. Get some sand paper and clean the engine ground strap. A bad ground would cause all kinds of headaches so im thinking is that. I just use logic and try to find the simplest explanation because sometimes just a little lose screw will take you hours and days to figure out, double check, triple check if you have to. I fix computer too so i have to troubleshoot them all day, it's anoying but it pays the bills.