69 coupe radiator question..

[Max Power 74]

6 cylinders, 302s and 351s W/O air had the 20" radiator, 351s with air and big blocks had the 24". The core support is the same, with spacers that bolt in for the 20" radiators. Most everybody removes the spacers and goes with a 24". I just bolted mine directly to the core support.

[swhite832 10]

That's what I was hoping. So for my hot Texas environment, and running A/C, a aluminum radiator is better but not required? AS long as the 24 i get is three or 4 core i should be good? The 302 I have is a runner(328hp). The builder wants it to run at at 160*.

[bnickel 10,004]

That what I was hoping. So for my hot Texas environment, and running A/C, a aluminum radiator is better but not required? AS long as the 24 i get is three or 4 core i should be good? The 302 I have is a runner(328hp). The builder wants it to run at at 160*.

 

 

160 is too cool really, i'd run it at 180 personally. i ran a 160 stat in my car forever and it would overheat in traffic (also didn't have a shroud at the time though) 180 will actually have more power than 160 believe it or not, in most cases

[swhite832 10]

That is what my mechanic said..except he went with a 190* A buddy of mine who has been drag racing since the beginning of time also said 180*. The engine builder wanted 160 in his motor so thats what I am going to give him...for now. I want to be able to sit in dead stopped traffic during 102* weather with the A/C blowing and not worry about the engine temp. I am sure I could accomplish this with a $1000 budget. The trick is making it happen for less than $500. Maybe an elec. fan ,in addition, thrown in for good measure. I have yet to price those.

[Max Power 74]

Getting any car to run at 160 in 102 heat will be a trick.

[swhite832 10]

would it be worth the extra money to splurge on a Aluminum? It doesn't have to run at 160, just not overheat, whatever the definition of that is. When i see the needle approach the "H" I get nervous. Unfortunately, I have not seen a replacement temp guage w/actual numbers that would fit in the original configuration. Any body know of one?

[bnickel 10,004]

i don't think it would be worth almost twice what a regular copper/brass rad costs to get an aluminum unit but that's just my opinion. i haven't seen any actual data to confirm that that an aluminum rad cools better than an equivalent sized copper rad.

 

i've seen people run a regular 2 1/8" temp gauge in place of the original.

[swhite832 10]

I guess i need to pull the dash to see how the guages attach. I really would like actual numbers. I think I will go with the copper. If I need more cooling while stuck in traffic. I will add an electrical fan. I have heard alum. cools better, but like you, have seen no imperical data anywhere.