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fastback40

engine dies

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The car has mallory coil, hifire and unlite module. Talking to speedshop motor heads the ignition is ruled out cause mallory stuff either stops completely or runs fine. The car runs until it warms up then dies like turning off the key. I can wait a few minutes then it starts and runs 10 or 15 minutes then does it again. The temp gauge can go past the half mark on the factory gauge which I think is not good. Once it gets that hot I seem to have issues with the car dying course it could be a coincidense. I thought I heard something pop and then the problem started...HELP!

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yeah the unilite module is generally a go or no go deal, the coil on the other hand is not. if the oil in the coil is low or leaking you could be having a problem with it heating up and then going to an open or shorting out making it not fire. i had the same issue with my old 73 galaxie 500 and it was the coil. also if you have an external ballast resistor on your car make sure the pink resistor wire from the ignition switch to the coil has been bypassed. if the wire has NOT been bypassed remove the ballast resistor it's not necessary and will actually cause you to not get enough spark output from the ignition system, although the car will run seemingly fine. ask me how i know about that one :oops: i'd been driving the car like that for a couple of years and never could figure out why it just didn't seem to have the powe it should in the upper rpm range. then i figured it out one day while trying to diagnose another ignition problem. i was only getting about 6-7 volts at the coil and the unilite is designed to work with 9 volts just like the stock ford points style system

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Well I replaced the coil and thought it was fixed, but problem came back and when I tried to keep it running like using the clutch I had a loud backfire. Car ran like it was running on 7 cylinders when letting off the gas. I'm wondering if'n it could be a shorting battery?

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Well I'm only posting this cause it may help others. Seems I've fixed the problem. The problem turned out to be a faulty ignition switch bought at autozone for 16.00. Ford must have had issues with these or they used solderless connectors on the wire harness. One of the things it also fixed was my temp gauge it is now reading in the middle and above when at stop light. It used to ride bout quater way past the line. Guess I better look into a bigger radiator.

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