djs69stang

Master cylinder is fine. I capped both outlets as soon as I removed the hard lines, so I am hoping that I do not have to bleed. I feel like I have been bled enough though (:

Master cylinder is fine. I capped both outlets as soon as I removed the hard lines, so I am hoping that I do not have to bleed. I feel like I have been bled enough though (:

So, I install a new Edelbrock 600cfm carb, filter and Edelbrock 110gph fuel pump with ss braided fuel line. Varoom, starts right up! Varoom down the street, whoa! No really, whoa, stop! No power brakes! The engine runs a bit rough at idle, the rpms go up when the brake is applies. :no: I say. So, after a week of denial, I tear off the brake booster and there it is:blink:. A near 2 inch tear in the diaphragm!:cursing: Ah but just today, I found a 69 brake booster at the Ol' Mustang Corral, IN STOCK! Who thinks I will have to bleed the brake lines?

So, I install a new Edelbrock 600cfm carb, filter and Edelbrock 110gph fuel pump with ss braided fuel line. Varoom, starts right up! Varoom down the street, whoa! No really, whoa, stop! No power brakes! The engine runs a bit rough at idle, the rpms go up when the brake is applies. :no: I say. So, after a week of denial, I tear off the brake booster and there it is:blink:. A near 2 inch tear in the diaphragm!:cursing: Ah but just today, I found a 69 brake booster at the Ol' Mustang Corral, IN STOCK! Who thinks I will have to bleed the brake lines?

I had the same set up as yours when I first got my Stang. Mechanical pump is much better and more reliable. Like Bnickel said, check inside that hole where the fuel pump mounts to make sure the eccentric ring is installed. The idiot who had my car installed the wrong style timing gear which allowed the eccentric bolt to come out and nearly tore the whole engine apart. I recently installed the Edelbrock 110gph after trying the Summit equivalent. Maybe I just got a lemon but the threads for the outlet fuel line on the Summit were too thin/short and the banjo fitting always leaked. Which by the way, you will also need to order the correct fitting at the outlet plus fuel line. Go to Edelbrock.com also for good pics and descriptions. They don't sell their stuff so you will end up back at Summit for pricing. I also liked the positioning of the inlet/outlet ports on the Edelbrock vs. the Summit.

I had the same set up as yours when I first got my Stang. Mechanical pump is much better and more reliable. Like Bnickel said, check inside that hole where the fuel pump mounts to make sure the eccentric ring is installed. The idiot who had my car installed the wrong style timing gear which allowed the eccentric bolt to come out and nearly tore the whole engine apart. I recently installed the Edelbrock 110gph after trying the Summit equivalent. Maybe I just got a lemon but the threads for the outlet fuel line on the Summit were too thin/short and the banjo fitting always leaked. Which by the way, you will also need to order the correct fitting at the outlet plus fuel line. Go to Edelbrock.com also for good pics and descriptions. They don't sell their stuff so you will end up back at Summit for pricing. I also liked the positioning of the inlet/outlet ports on the Edelbrock vs. the Summit.

Is this something I can rebuild, I have not had one apart but it sounds like there is not too much to the item. Probably a weekend thing for now anyway.

I started the car with the current set up of brake booster vacuum to rear of EDL carb, warm up, idle is at 800. I disconnected the brk bstr line and plugged the back of the carb, idle is at 800. I connected the brk bstr line to the intake manifold tree on the rear, idle is at 1000, and when I touch the brake the rpm surges a few hundred, and the engine runs rough. Engine runs smooth when the brk bstr is connected to the carb and surge in rpms is greater. No matter what the brk bstr line connected to, no power brakes. I think I will rip everything off the IM, take the IM off and reseal it. I also think that my brk bstr may be shot. Stupid engine is going to be the death of me this year!!!!!!!!!!!

I put the brake booster on the rear of the carb, blocked off the previous intake port, and when I step on the brake pedal, the rpm's surge 500, and the brakes are still manual instead of power. But, I will say this, whereas before the engine would run rough upon pushing the brake pedal, now it stays smooth. When I popped off the inlet on the brake booster there was a surge of air which should mean that it is holding vacuum right? The fluid level in the master cylinder is fine.

I have installed the new Edelbrock 600 cfm barb, it idles and runs great! But when the brakes are applied, yuck, the engine runs somewhat rough and the brakes are minimal with me having to push the pedal hard. There were no problems with the brakes before the install and the booster is running off the manifold. There is a port on the back of the EDL carb, should I run the booster on that port? Nothing in the manual says to do or not to do, it just says some guys do so, if not then it should be plugged which it is.

The survey is over, I am going Edelbrock with the new carb. Everyone says that once they put it on, no troubles since. I even talked to some Chevy guys. Sounds like the 600cfm is the best bet also. The bigger is better "theory" sure is tempting. But everyone I have talked with says 600 cfm for the 302 unless I am producing a hp over 300 and I am not. Will be back with the results.

What is the pros/cons of overcarbing? Worse fuel mileage? If it gives me more punch/fun than the 650 sounds like the most I should go. I have looked at those Street Avengers which sound totally hot. I understand the Edelbrock has smaller fuel bowls than Holley, any times of hot/boiling gas? I like the idea of bolt and go with Edelbrock, I am tired of removing that shaker to make adjustments. Of course, with a new Holley I may not need to make adj. And the reasoning goes back and forth and back and forth.:tongue_smilie:

Holy Smokes! A friendly gear head let me borrow his Holley 650cfm and WOW. (See prev. portion of thread for why the different carb) For the first time since I got the 3.55's last Spring 2nd gear chirped! That's tight for an auto 3-speed. The engine is totally different, much more pop, response, speed (:<, oh yeah! I think I have been nursing this old carb for too long. Now it is time to look for a new carb! I will have to do some research and determine the brand (edel vs holley) and the 600 vs. 650. Now it is time for my fellow gearheads to put their 2 cents in the offering and tell me what you think should grace my engine. I have no idea what the internals are (cam, lift, compression, etc.) I can tell you it is a 302, Edelbrock 289 dual plane, undersize pulleys, tri-y headers. I do believe the cam is mildly wild. I have been to Holley's and Edelbrock's site and I know their recommendations. But what really matters is those of you who have experienced the different carbs. Fill me in Boooyyyzz!

Gazoo, got any more pics of the engine?

I have thought about this option also. But there are 2 factors that may effect the use of the Edelbrock. I have a shaker from a 351C, so the height has to be just right for the hood to fit down on the shaker; I know that the correct phenolic spacer is key to the height, I currently use a 1". Two, the Edelbrock has bowls to the sides instead of front/back so I don't know if the shaker base will fit over those bowls. Sweet ride!!!!!!!!!

I do have the timing set at 10-12 with the carb ported vacuum. I had not heard of the carb cleaner trick. Maybe I will give that a shot tomorrow (no pun intended). If the leak is on the back of the block, will the cleaner help there? There is no "valley" for it to pool in. It has run fine prior to this crack I found in the base plate. And after I fixed that it ran fine, once. After the cleaner trick and whatever it determines, I will take it off (if necessary) and check the weld. Hopefully by the weekend I will have the other carb to test.

This weekend I went to the World Street Challenge and ran into a friend who has a friend who has a Holley just like mine except it is 650 cfm. I am going to borrow it, I know that 650 is alittle too big for my set up but as you might guess, it should help me narrow down the problem, carb or not the carb? If it runs well, then the problem is the carb. IF it does not run well or change the problem, it could be the existing carb and or a vac. leak somewhere. I have been through all the other vac. components so, if it is not the carb then I am going to suspect my IM has "popped" a hole in the seal I did last Spring. I just gotta get this figured out now because we are finally having dry weather to drop the top and cruise the streets.

Checked all of those and they are good. Like I said in the original post. I have checked everything. The carb is a older 4160, Vac Sec., 4bbl, dual side hung bowls, electric choke, 600 cfm on 302.

The carb was rebuilt in 2006, only has a few thousand miles at best. In 4 years the car has only 5,000 miles. During the winter every 2-3 weeks I'd run or drive just to keep the gaskets wet. I use only premium, ouch.

I don't have a big cam, it is slighlty mild at best. Don't know for sure as I did not put together the motor's interiors. I did redo the IM last Spring but it ran great all summer. I use to feel confident in the work I did on that item.

I do have a manifold vac and ported vac port on the carb. I did not try the rag trick but I can tell you that after it is warm when I close down the choke plate it speeds up, too far and it doesn't like that.

Been through all that with the timing. Vacuum advance goes to the carb. The engine runs fine. It just won't stay running below 1000. I did find a crack in the carb's base plate by the PCV port awhile back but had that welded shut and the body fits flush on the base. If it is a vacuum leak, (whether it is in the carb or manifold) shouldn't it be "off" no matter when it is running? It "pops" fine, starts fine, warms up fine, runs fine when I am driving, I just cannot let it go below 1000.

Holley 4bbl on Edelbrock 289 IM on 302 When in neutral and I set the idle to 1100 or 1200 etc., runs fine. When I put it in gear it dies. When it is in neutral and I turn the idle below 1000, it dies. So, apparently whenever it drops below 1000, it quits. It also runs fine when I hold the accelerator in just a bit while in gear to keep it running. Everything, and I mean everything that I can think of has been checked. I have had the carb off 3x to check gaskets, lines, clearances, etc. Troubleshoot please. djs69stang