69gmachine
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Posts posted by 69gmachine
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You can also weld a bung on the back for the factory brass fitting. It may be a bit extreme to some, but tha't what I did to keep it stock appearing.
You're going to need a PCV port anyway, ad that's how I would use the Atomic rear vacuum port.
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if you turn the yoke both wheels should turn in the same direction no matter what. if you are able to put an axle in one side and turn, the other side will turn opposite if its a non trac lock.With no load on the wheels an open rear will turn in opposite directions as stated by 02Lightning.
EDIT: Re-read post by ramair. Sorry, I missed the detail about turning from the yoke versus from a wheel. Although I haven't checked it myself, I will give you the benefit of the doubt.
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To respond to the first question...Yes, the Magnum 500s were an option on the 1969 Mustang. There were 467 Fastbacks built that year with the Magnum 500s. In 1970, there were 2,634.Source: Mustang...by the Numbers (1967-1973) by Kevin Marti
Bt
Since there were a total of 2485 Boss Mustangs produced in 1969 (302 and 429 combined) which of course were all fastbacks, 467 is a reasonable subset that came with the optional Magnum wheel.
In 1970, Boss 302 production went way up (I didn't bother to look it up) so again, the optional Magnum would be a reasonable subset of the total Boss car production.
I don't have a copy of the Mustangs by the Numbers book, but everything I've ever read indicated that it was a Boss only option.
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I believe the number 1 consideration is how you intend to use the car. It doesn't really matter if you lose 45 HP at 5500 RPM if you almost never actually drive it at 5500 rpm.
The long stroke will give you a ton of torque at low rpm, so I don't think you have to worry about it being a dog just because you don't go with the recommended intake. If you intend to mostly just cruise around town, I would go with the air gap. You will still be able to have a blast at the drag strip whenever you do go. Will it really matter that you "only" went 10.8 instead of 10.6?
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The advantage of aluminum is primarily lighter weight, so lower rotatiing inertia, faster acceleration and more torque to the rear wheels. The down side is more expensive, relatively easy to damage by road debris and cannot be rebalanced once damaged (at least that's what I was told by a DS shop). The OEMs have been using aluminum for years now especially with lighter/lower powered cars.
The main advantage of regular steel is cost and easily repaired.
Then there's chrome moly steel, which is almost as light as aluminum but much more resistant to damage and can be repaired. The downside is of course cost, but that's the one I picked.
In the end it's a judgement call that only you can make.
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Well you clearly have your combo well sorted out. With the same size engine, similar size heads and a cam with about the same lift and duration but a greater LSA, I would not want mine to be any more radical than it is.
I went with the Torker II primarily because it allows the shaker to fit without resorting to the kind of fabrication Buckeye did, but I don't think I would try the taller Vic Jr anyway. I guess some part of "streetable" is subjective, but clearly you have a great running car that's fun to drive and that's all that matters.
Awesome videos!
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Ray,
I'm also in Southern Maryland. I can stop by and help you troubleshoot sometime, just send me a PM with your particulars like address and phone. We just need to trace the power with a multimeter to see where you're losing power.
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I'm not sure what you mean by "seat all the way", but the threads should stop just below the top of the opening, and the rubber boot should just have a little compression on it.
It's possible they gave you the wrong kit, perhaps for a '70 instead of a '69 which has the larger tapers.
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In 1969 (and '70) they only came on Boss 302 and Boss 429's. They were not optional.I think what you meant is that they were not optional on non-boss cars (except as a dealer installed option). They were only optional on the Boss cars. As a dealer installed option, they wouldn't show up on the window sticker.
In '71 they were available on just about any V8 Ford there was, although most were the 14x6, not the 15x8 that came on the Boss cars.
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The cam you've picked out requires screw in studs, so that means you would also need to either remove the heads and have them machined for screw in studs since they came from the factory with press in studs, or buy aftermarket.
If you just wanted to pick up a few extra ponies, the cam is a good place to start as the factory cam was anemic. However, you need to limit lift to .490 or less or you risk pulling out the press in studs. It's a lot of work and you will probably get no more than about 270 HP if you install a cam, intake and 4 bbl (and that's assuming you still have decent compression).
Rear end gears will usually give the best performance feel when the budget is limited.
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A couple more tips:
Start at one end and only bend a little at a time. Make several passes to prevent bending the rest of the panel.
The other thing I did was to cut a couple of notches in the horizontal lip, not all the way to the outer edge, just enough to get the bend started without having to beat like hell.
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If you do decide to go for the 302 Clevor, I'd stroke it to a 347 to get as much useable torque a possible.
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Unless you have a really big cam, that sounds pretty high for idle. I would back it down until it idles around 650 if you have the stock cam.
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I was watching an episode of All Girls Garage the other day when they showed an app that makes your smart phone a very accurate digital level. Pretty cool!
I think the concept of the show is great; 3 cute girls who wrench on cars. Unfortunately, they desperately need a technical consultant to keep the girls from saying and doing stupid stuff.
They set the initial timing on a '69 Camaro to 35 degrees BTDC. That could have worked if they explained how they revved the engine until all the mechanical timing was in first and they were setting total timing.
One girl explained how the ring on a coil over shock is used to adjust the spring rate rather than ride height or corner weight.
Another girl told the audience that "aluminum is very porosity". Even if she used the correct form of the word, she should have qualified the statement that cast aluminum is very porous. But I think what she really meant was that aluminum is relatively soft as she was telling the audience never to use a wire brush on aluminum that has been used to clean steel as it will leave steel particles embedded in the aluminum.
Still, I'd rather watch 3 cute girls with wrenches than any 3 guys.
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A couple of other details about "Windsor" 302 engines:
1) The imbalance used changed in 1981 from 28 oz to 50 oz. If you have a late (50 oz) crankshaft, then you also need a late flywheel and harmonic balancer to go with it.
2) The harmonic balancer pulley changed from 3 bolts to 4 in 1970 when the water pump inlet was moved from the passenger side to the driver side and of course the accessory brackets changed as well. At the same time the snout on the balancer was lengthed where the pulley bolts on. The snout was changed again (longer still) when the reverse rotation serpentine belt was added around 1985.
As long as you change everything together, you can convert any early block to a later configuration and vice versa.
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It's a double adjustable twin tube designed for asphalt racing, I believe they were the 37 series. They have since been superseded with the 47 series. The differences are the way the adjustments are made for both compression and rebound, which necessitated a change in the body and rod end design. The new design is much easier to access in the car. Performance wise they are supposed to be the same.
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Well that does suck.
So now I understand why it is necessary to position the shock mounts so the range is centered at the desired ride height, but that will probably also affect the required spring height.
I designed my suspension to center a shock with 6" of travel, which is enough to go rock crawling. The AFCO shocks I use aren't position sensitve either.
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Jim, you should have more than 1/4" adjustability, but I think part of your problem may be the free height of the spring. I don't know whether you're trying to go up or down, but my guess is you either have 10" or 12" springs. Swapping them out will move the adjust point on the shock and should put you in the correct ride height range. I have a pair of 10" springs you can test if you need to lower it and you have 12" springs.
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Not sure about bumperless, but i quite like this :biggrin:That's an awesome car. The NZV8 website says it has a 406 stroker with Yates heads, but the V8 Supercar series it competes in has a 5.0 L size limit (and looks like it may even be a sealed engine from Ford racing). The wheels are Atek 17x11 with Dunlop 280 spec racing tires. They also appear to have spec brakes to keep costs down and competition close. I couldn't find any details about how they fit those massive wheels and tires under the fenders, but it's a full blown race car so there's no telling. The series is headed to Austin, Tx in 2013 so if you live any where near there, you may want to start making plans to watch them run. Should be a blast.
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Ron Bramlett, the head of the 50th aniversary committee for the MCA has announced plans for a pre-50th cruise in that will meet in Norman OK, and then go in opposite directions to each show.
Not exactly ideal IMO, but much better than nothing. I think the Charlotte show is going to be the better of the 2 as some of the big vendors like Roush are expected to go to the east coast.
Sam, the head of all previous MAA tours announced he will pass the torch to anyone who wants to take on leading a 50th anniversary tour from Las Vegas to Charlotte for a small price. Not sure what he expects to get for it, but I doubt anyone wants it bad enough to pay money. Unless something develops from the MAA crowd for a true cross country trip, I'll join up with the Mustangs in Oklahoma and then head east.
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I'm not sure where you got the 2500 lb weight from, but the 2012 rule book Appendix A section 9, page 207 has a table for minimum weights.
V8s greater than 5100 cc have a min weight of 3000 lbs. If your wheels are more than 16" in diameter or in excess of 10" wide there is an additional 50 lb penalty each per section 17.4 With a 351W and 18" wheels you're looking at a minimum weight of 3050.
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Can you post pictures of what you're calling the mechanism? I can't tell if you're referring to the rod or the part that bolts to the door shell.
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The iron WP weighed in at 10.6 lbs. The edelbrock alum weighed 7.0 lbs. My guesstimate is that the Flow Kooler alum weighs 6 +/- .2 lbs.
A pair of alum heads typically weigh 50 lbs less than their iron counterparts.
A couple of years ago I made a spread sheet of all the weight I had removed, but now I can't find it anywhere.
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I don't want that "pizza cutter" look on the front. BI prefer to call it the "Hot Wheels" look :001_tongue:
Bullit wheels without spacers?
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Edited by 69gmachine
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My coil over front suspension is designed to use SN-95 or Enkei light weight racing wheels without spacers. It can fit a P275 on 17 x 9 or a P295 on an 18 x 10 wheel in the stock wheel well with only rolling the front fender lips and modifying the outer shock tower for clearance.
I use the Wilwood spindle with a combination rear steer arm and caliper bracket. Although it will fit the original upper and lower control arms, it will work best with my coil over kit which is designed for the slightly shorter (0.4") Wilwood spindle.
The shorter steering arm results in a much smaller turn radius and also a faster turn rate. I can turn with any modern car.
The spindle kit was designed to work with my rack and pinion kit, as they require less travel than the OEM spindles. The power r&p kit will eliminate bump steer and drop around 30 lbs as compared to a factory p/s set up. If you run really wide tires you will need power steering.
I have several brake packages, but the 2 best bang for the buck are the C5 and M1. Both of these use Wilwood alum hubs and hats with a bolt on rotor. The C5 is 12.72 x 1.25, while the M1 is 12.2 x 1.1. Both use an OEM type PBR floating 2 piston caliper. Even with the big rotor, the C5 kit still weighs less than the stock iron stuff. At the low end of the price spectrum I have a 2 piece iron 11.73 x 1.25 rotor that will fit inside a 15" wheel, and at the other end of the spectrum are a couple of high end race 6 piston caliper kits for 1.1 and 1.25 x 12.88" rotors.
I use the C5 kit on my car. When I last had a track day, my rotors stayed cool enough to prevent brake fade after 20 minutes of hard track time. The SN 95 Mustangs with stock Cobra 13 x 1.1" brakes had to back off the turns by the end of the session due to the heat induced brake fade. One of the S197 GT Mustangs with stock 12.4 x 1.2 brakes cracked both of their front rotors by the end of the session. I drove 500 miles back home without incident.
If you ever plan to autocross (and I highly recommend it) you will need the widest tire you can fit in the fender.
PM me if interested in any of the above.