indianfiremach
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Posts posted by indianfiremach
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Hi all, I'm doing a full resto on my '70 Mach 1, and came across the Electric-Life power window kit with a chrome double console switch. My car is a former Ford Exec car with AC, PS, PDB, Tach, Tilt, AM/FM stereo, Fold Down, Intermittent Wipers, Shaker, Deluxe Seatbelts, and a few other options. Seems like Power windows would round out the options list. I also have a 1969 console and could mount the switch where the cigarette lighter is, can order door panels without the crank holes.
Anyone have experience with the kit? Think I'm better off leaving well enough alone? My 1970 Corvette has power windows and I really like them.
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Coupon still works, but how did you find anything with a discount? Seems like 95% of items are "discount exempt."
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That's great they're making the clock panel. A long needed part. I wonder if they will start making the '70 instrument bezel as well?
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Here's some pictures of the 351w shaker:
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Thanks for the replies. If I do any road racing on those T/A's, I will be in a ditch long before the T5 gives out. I'm tempted to run with the T5 I have, but I'd rather not do the transmission swap several times if the T5 from the GT doesn't hold up.
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Hi all, I'm looking at putting a 5 speed in my '70 Mach with the stock 351c 4v. I had considered a TKO/3550 but I understand there are driveline angle issues that make the shaker sit incorrectly. I have found locally a complete changeover from a 1993 Cobra (T5 is still in the cobra) for $700. That seems fair and I can drive it before he pulls it out to go AOD.
Anyway, does this sound like a trans that could work? As I understand, it's the strongest of the factory T5's. The 351c is pretty much stock, and I'll use a stock clutch with 14x7 wheels and BF Goodrich Radial T/A's. The car will be only for street use and never see the dragstrip. I have a stock T5 already from an '89 GT, but have gotten mixed comments on whether it will work or not.
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There is no part number on the 1969 351W shaker base. I have one that I'm not going to use that's in really nice shape. I sent you a PM and would be interested in a trade.
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Hmmm, bulk rate... I have one that might like to tag along for the ride.I have collected a few links over the years:
http://www.tonysautoclassics.com/index.htm
http://qualitymustangs.tripod.com/
http://www.stevesrestoration.com/
http://www.instrument-specialties.com/
You can delete "quality mustangs" and "Mr. G's" from that list. The phone number on Ray's site doesn't even work anymore (goes to some other person) and Mr G's stopped rechroming bezels.
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I have a '70 mach 1 and got the distinctive industries seat covers for the front and am using my original rear seat (under the fold down). The comfortweave on the distinctive covers is a lighter gray color. I wish I had paid the extra $ and bought TMI covers. I'm sure these will be fine, but I just wasn't "wowed" when taking them out of the box.
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I bought a lot of parts ($3k) from CJ's over their end of year / 30% off sale. Not all parts were that discounted, but I compared prices to NPD and others so only bought when I was getting something below the going rate everywhere else. I also like that they have free shipping, no sales tax for me, and since you earn $ back, I got a decent amount of free parts to boot. If you're not in a hurry, wait for their sale. I bought enough parts to keep me busy for at least the year until their next big sale.
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351 Windsor shakers are a rare beast and can bring a pretty penny. Why not sell it buy the correct one for a 351C and pocket the rest of the money or put it into another area of the project.I'll be doing just that to offset the cost of the 351c shaker I already picked up. I ended up with some extras from snagging a few good deals along the way.
351w shaker (with a 428cj snorkel, and sitting on my 351 cleveland, it's all confused!)
351 Cleveland shaker (sitting on the 351w I took out.. One of these days I'll get it right!)
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I love those wheel covers and almost went with a set on my car. A good set of covers are hard to find these days, so are the 14x7 wheels. Did you go with 245 BFG's? They look wide. :thumbup:They're 225 70 series tires. I had the wheels sandblasted and then epoxy painted them. I think they'll look good, my dad think's I'm crazy.
lorenejo60 reacted to this -
Update - Car is gone!! Ok, well in a good way. The body shop picked the car up today to replace a bunch of sheet metal and repair the accident/rust damage.
Car leaving for the shop: (thought too late to snap a better shot!)
In the 2-3 months while the car is away, I'll have plenty to work on, and already started on some pieces. I got the dash panels together over the weekend, and the only repo parts here is the Di-Noc for the passenger woodgrain (perfect match) and the clock lens.
Got the wheels mounted, a controversial choice. Original 14x7 steel wheels and mint "new take off" Deep Dish Wheel Covers as original. I almost went with Magnums, still probably would if I hadn't bought the tires. But when was the last time you saw a set of these on a car? Let alone a mint set like these.
Shaker mania! I never met a Shaker I didn't like (or apparently, buy..) Trying to figure out which is the best/correct one. Left is for a 428 CJ, center is from a '69 351 windsor shaker, and right is the correct one.
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I did exactly as you did with the fiberglass but used a small cutout of fiberglass mesh to reinforce it. Came out very strong and not noticeable except from the back.
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The Mach1 letters are held in with little spring clips. The spring clips are retained into the dies cast panel. The letters have posts that slide into the spring clips. Carefully pry the letters off and the screws will be visible. I restored my complete set. Take your time and don't lose the clips and the small parts. I disassembled everything and then stripped the paint of the die cast panels. I filled in the road rash and small dents. I had my aluminum bright work restored by a professional.Who did your bright work?
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Great info! ThanksWas thinking that the cougar windows switches would look at home on a stang door panel. I'm guessing they would work and provide an accurate look.
The Cougar switches are hard to find not pitted up. I had a 69 xr7 convertible with pw and the system was a pain, too complicated for its own good. Lots of harnesses and assemblies that could wear our or corrode.
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Car was built 12/15/69, I'm not sure what would qualify as an early build. They do have the correct AM/FM stereo cut outs and proper color, which makes it a little bit more of a mystery. I'm not sure if there is a door tag as the whole area has been painted over. I'm not as worried about original panels to the car as long as they are solid, so these work for me. As far as the engine goes, the vin # on the back of the block did not match the Vin # from the car.
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The motor sounds good.Something I just noticed...the Passenger side door doesn't have the 5 lower holes punched out which allows easy access to the rocker panel mounting screws. Only real Mach 1's came with those holes, I think.
I wonder if your doors may be '69s or maybe early '70s. I'll attach a picture of what I'm talking about if you don't already know.
Thanks for the photo - I had never seen those holes before. It would not surprise me that the doors had been changed. Over the course of time the car appeared to have been in a few light accidents and seeing how solid the doors are, I imagine they came off another car.
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If the t5 has a tag on it you can find out which one you have. The cobra and z-rated ones are pretty tough. Were you sure you did not sell your matching number motor? I love mustangs with A/C, one of these days I will own one lol. My boss was pretty optioned out for a boss (bosses had no a/c). And it was grabber orange also. Now it is dragstrip silver. Guess they did not want to race grabber orange (it was a drag race for years). My mom saw the original color on inside of door and sez it yellow lol. What engine was that you pulled? If I remember right, the all 351 engine that is a 4 barrel were Cleveland but 2 barrels could be either Clevlelands or Windsor. I'll try to find that out. If that was a Windsor or cleveland, I hope you checked out the vin number on it. I cannot tell from picture what it was. Are you in Michigan also? Look forward to seeing your thread.The T5 tags are gone, but the case #'s and partial vin tell them to be from 1987-1990 GTs. The motor was not the original, as the car came from the factory with a 351c per the marti report. Kevin Marti has the ability to tell and the first line item in my report was "351 Cleveland Engine" The car itself was delivered new to Michigan but is now with me in Charlotte, NC.
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I picked up a few T5's for the car, both out of '90 GTs. I bought the first one for a good price and then found the second for an even better one. When spring thaw comes I'll sell one and use the other. I'm a little worried I'm putting out too much power for them. I won't race the car but am seriously considering going with a TKO instead. I'm open to feedback or comments. I have a stock 10.5" clutch and BF Goodrich Radial T/A's for the car, so I may be able to get away with the T5.
lorenejo60 reacted to this -
Next was the engine. I'm replacing a lot of the panels in the engine bay (accident damage/overall beat up appearance) so I did a 'redneck engine pull' and cut the core support.
Starting the pull
:Going:
Going:
Gone!
The motor and trans that were in there actually ran and shifted well, and I doubt had many miles on them. Off to craigslist they went and they will find a new life in '70 convertible. Since the car had a cleveland originally, I wanted to go back closer to stock. I agonized and searched and tried to decide what year/style cleveland I wanted. I had all but decided on going back with a 2v motor and starting with a core, when I came across this (click on image to see the video):
Rebuilt 351c 4v, 4 bolt block. A little warmer (Comp hydraulic cam & lifters, sounds mean) than I had envisioned, but it's hard to beat a ready-to-go motor that was in my price range. I'll be going back with an edelbrock performer intake, stock 4v exhaust manifolds, and the new edelbrock 600 I had put on the Windsor just to start it. I'm a little worried I'll need more carb than that, and may step up to a 750. The carb on the motor in the video was 1000 CFM so I'm sure it can handle more.
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It's been a while - time for an update. I've taken the car all apart, which is a good idea and terrible idea at the same time. I found the top of the floors were surface rusted, which scared me because that almost always means a leaky cowl. I pulled the dash all out and nervously stuck my flashlight up there - only to find:
Nice and solid - although it clearly has that 'lived-in' look. As in, lived in by mice.
I also found more of the original color/paint. Why someone repainted it red I'll never know.
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Pm sent on the bezels.
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Wheel looks great, how did you do it? I'm working on mine and it has taken forever.
Thoughts on Power Windows in a 1970 Mach 1?
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Edited by indianfiremach · Report reply
Your post is especially appropriate since I'm a Gen-y'er myself! Though I would think among my generation I like things more original than most. I even have the styled wheel covers on the Mach and P02 wire wheels on the '70 Corvette.