rc4mike
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Posts posted by rc4mike
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I had a glass guy glue my window in and the angle ended up being a little off. I was able to use some washers between the window frame and the piece that slides on the rods. Adding a washer to either the top or bottom hole will change the angle in or out a little more.I did the same on my bolt in 70 glass. Used a thin pc of rubber sheet to make shims. Still have to tweak it but seems to be the way to go.
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Mike, what year are the spindles? If they are 1970 Mustang disc brake spindles, I am interested! Can you give me the part number?Jw. I have set of 70 disc spindles brakes arms...the entire assembly including steering links that I would sell.
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Mike, quick question re the rear susp- Did you use the FAB 9 housing or the original? If the original housing, did you narrow it?No. I used the stock housing and welded attachment points to it. It's stock width as well.
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I looked into this kit pretty hard before I decided to build my car back to stock but using roller perches. Since then I bought a 69 Mach, this one being an unmolested clean original. Now I'm reconsidering the build on the "sportsroof" car, since I have a nice stock version already. Any thoughts on your kit? How was the install? It seemed like a great option to bring the car more up to date in several ways, eliminate bumpsteer, bigger brakes, rack ...etc. Any info to share? Thanks ,BrianMy fatman kit was the first sold about 3 years ago. Car is not driving yet, so tough to get an idea of how it performs. They did get me new lower a arms to fix a few issues i found. Also had to add support to the rack to stop some movement in the rack that was making noise as i turned. My engine is lowered to allow my trick flow R efi intake to fit under the hood, so i needed to modify headers to fit steering and modify the oil pan to fit around the k member. I think for a stock vehicle it would work great. Mine being modified took a little head scratching. I think when i start driving it will work great...hopefully very soon!
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Well my front wheels fit as well. although suspension has not settled back down. Plenty of room up front. Rear appears to be off center about 1/4". easy to fix with a four link. Will have to roll rear fenders slightly or raise ride height.
One problem on fronts. Valve stems are behind spoke and they hit calipers (13" rotors). Even rub without valve caps. Stems are 1-3/8
long. Wonder if i can find shorter stems...like 1"?
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Thanks for the response. Love these as well. I'll get more pics soon. Front wheels go On tonight.
Wheels are raceline gt-240 (dealer says they are discontinuing these)
Rear 10x17 w 6.5" bs nitto 555. 285/40
Front 8x17 w 4.5" bs nitto 555 255/40
Rear susp is TCP g-bar 4 link
Front is Fatman fab 95 model strut system w an escort power rack
Rears are very tight. Need to roll top part of rear fenders. May even raise suspension little to give more room. Fronts should fit no prob but will see tonight.
Engine is a 408w with late model efi system making about 450 to the tires. Still have to do some tuning. I've done every part of build myself in garage including paint. Engine work was beyond my skills, however. Should be on the road soon. Can't wait to finish. It's been a 4 year labor of love.
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Tight fit, but they will work w a little "massaging"
17x10 Raceline 6.5" BS
285/40 Nitto's
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I wondered the same as mine has that as well. I figured it was normal and went ahead and painted the car. Looks normal to me at this point
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I had the same issue w my 70. Ended up finding a guy selling his original door harnesseses which included the original conduits and grommets. U can buy a new door repro door harness....but they were expensive.
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Actaully I was referring to the motorized equipment. I bought the Electric Life kit that most people claim is weak and underpowered. In the Cuda, windows would go down at nearly a free-fall speed. It was just a matter of adjustment though to get these working properly. Hope the Mustang set I purchased will install and operate ok.Yes mine are electric life. Not impressed w their power. Even w no felt they are still slow to lift. I can't find a bind so I'm either missing the problem or they lack power.
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Are those factory windows or after market? I bought aftermarket to put in my car and like my Cuda, am sure will be issues getting the up and down speed balanced.Yes the worst window was aftermarket. However my other door is orig glass and still drags but not as much as the new glass did.
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I pulled the door trims off my mach1 last night and like you said it did not have the brackets. It does have the holes for them but they appear to have never been used. So in answer to your original question I have no idea how to help. Sorry!BTW did you get it sorted out?
Mine has those holes as well. I ended up shimming between glass and the brackets that bolt to the glass. I needed to tilt the glass away from the inner felt. This has helped a bunch. Still need to tweak but appears this is the solution. Thanks
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Stiff hoods hings will lead to that as well
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Hmmm I have deluxe panels. Never seen these adjusters. Wonder where u get them? Do deluxe panels use these? I don't see these in my assembly manual. What car are those photos from?
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Got mine from cj. I wonder where umcan find the 4mm felt? I'm temped to us felt from my orig door panels
I think there are two different sizes of felt available and me be thinking yours is too tight. I think it is 4mm or 6mm.Failing that one trick I use is silicone spray on the glass where the felt runs to loosen it up.
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So I have power windows and they worked fine until I installed the window felt. Obviously too much friction between windows and the inner felt piece. The felt is not original. Any tricks to this?
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My waterpump pulley is a butterfly's breath away from the crank pulley so I would say it's normal.My pulley is similarly close to crank but I have overheating issues at high speed w a new alum large rad. I have A/C and it really overheats fast w ac on
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I'm ready to get my 315's as well for my 70 Mach 1. I have a g-bar rear end so hoping gives me just a little bit more room.
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I spoke w classic yesterday about gauges. They (adam) never mentioned a 70 bezel. He did mention another company making a 3" combo that might fit the two side openings. That way I can have 6 gauges in the 4 holes. Supposed to get me that info Monday
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Does the factory scissor window assembly work and clear the speaker magnets?Oh forgot...added power windows but had to really be careful so speaker magnet doesn't hit one of the window glass mount bolts.
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I just installed 5 1/4" speakers in doors. I have delux interior so just cut holes in carpet where factory option had them. Then bought new quarter panels w a 6" pod for my rear speakers. The panels don't fit well but eventually I got them to work.
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well i got my din deluxe panel in today . just like the rest of my new plastic trim....this is crap. no chrome, extremely thin, and no where close to matching the original deluxe wood grain. guess ill send it back and get a regular bezel and hack it up to fit the din radio.
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My din bezel is being shipped so I can get u photo soon. I wanted a double din nav but really didn't think it would fit. I'd love to see those photos as well.
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He was talking about the trapdoor and not the rear quarter panels. I have no clue how the rear quarters fit.jaday, the panels you linked to are from the same company as the one I linked to on ebay, just that the ebay ones have the speaker spot.
Well I installed the speaker pod panels. Fit like crap and took several hours to get close to working. Finish is way off. Much thinner than original. Guess I'll run with these for awhile. I can always hack up my original panels! Now I need to get new door panels as mine are cracked up bad.
Interior quarter trim panel w/ speaker pod
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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I bought some 6 months ago. Not the best match w original panels. Texture is diff. Much thinner as well.
I'll look tomorrow to see if I can find my papers.