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Ive got inspiration from this forum Thanks guys

Its like a plastic card board thick version i got it from a sing shop

install block security holders fully tight the spindle screw fully tight the security holders if you want to be extra carefull I use on mine red locktight No issues been installed on my daily driven and weekend road hog for more than 6 months drives like a champ, the only issue i had is that i had a 1 1/8 sway and didnt like it, then i downgrade it to a 1 inch and i love it, maybe was the kit maybe not who knows

Thanks bro You are right I did loose some hp

first of all "read" :detective: BECAUSE IT WAS FREE ALSO

thanks man :) its been working for more than a year with no problems, the last pics were just an update for a friend thats why I took it apart my clutch pedal is a lil wierd it has a lot of holes drilled so I place it in a good level BTW my pedal effort is the same I can push it by hand also I think its because of the year of the T5 "newer version" thats why I had to buld the custom bracket

I went to a friend shop and he offered to reinforce my export brace so what the heck! I was going to change it anyway I was impressed how sturdy it feals now! now Im planing to keep it :icon_bike: gonna do the same to my montecarlo bar :icon_hyper:

I hope this helps!

was having some minor heating problems 3/4 needle at idle now the needle stays at 1/4 at idle all the time I cut the top of 200 gal a barrel reinforcement measure it buy some mending plates at walmart for 2.97 bent them VIDEO I'm in the process of buying sway bar a new gas tank & aluminum rad now my cash can go to other stuff

took my whole dash apart to hook the heater box and fix other stuff I need to do something to my gauges also the oil and amp didnt work and recently the fuel and water temp died I took everything apart I came up with some nice ideas better reflect background I had a chrome rust oleum paint can got all the gauges out cleaned the cluster paint them chrome instead of the dull white paint bought 8 red gel bulb covers painted the faded colored needles with some car paint at night this is what I see :)

I was going to cancel the radio or AC with a panel and install the sunpro gauge but I found a nice way to install it on my stang I used the screw from the steering colum to hold the gauge plate 2 1/2 inch nut one to give desired height and the other one to tight the plate black paint can cap for the pod drilled the stud holes and a hole for the wires the cap can hold the gauge just fine so you wont need the aluminum holder with this option you can install a second gauge on the other side with out the oddy looks "aluminum stud and white plastic" this is not for a resto mod IMO but for me this works just fine :)

My back tray was from NPD and started to rotten because its made from cardboard I copied & cut the plastic also drilled the speakers holes Paint it with plastic paint from rust oleum Ill post some pics installed when paint dry out

well I had a problem with my shelby drop my long headers were almost touching the floor some guys here told me to get JBA 1650-S but they are crazy expensive but I found on ebay 94 mustang headers 5.0 for 50 bucks shipped they are now installed on my mustang and I dont have any complains at all they even look if they were made for this type of car, it gives a great engine sound better than my long headers you can see hear the difference in this video

this kits work great & just paid half the price Item Description: Mustang 1967-69 Bump Steer Corrector Kit. Bump steer is caused by the tie rod ends moving up and down as the suspension travels. When Mustangs are lowered, the tie rod ends get closer to a level position and under braking can actually go past the level position which causes the tires to toe outwards. This causes the car to pull from side to side during braking. Bump steer is corrected by relocating the outer tie rod downward with an intermediate spacer block that mounts on the spindle steering arm. This is a bolt on kit which requires no welding, heating, or bending of any kind. It will also quicken your steering ratio for better handling and road feel! unscrew the spindle from the arm tight the block to grind the arm screw secure it grind it fully flat surface uninstall it and put the spindle screw tight it secure pin installed drill spindle hole install block security holders fully tight the spindle screw fully tight the security holders if you want to be extra carefull I use on mine red locktight

just passing this experience I had I was installing a 1 inch fomoco spacer when I change the carb studs on the air intake I found oil and gasoline inside the threads I read that you could have leaks thru there but not that big I put teflon tape on the new longer studs that I made when I checked the vaccum tester the needle was steady at 21 I really recommend all of you guys to check and seal those studs IMO In my case it gave me a sweet idle on my 302

I local guy is making this custom console for me I wanted something that: covered the shift area wont block my stock lighter "future vintage AC option" hold Iphone with usb charging station here are some pics of the 50% progress:

I bended the yellow stud a lil to make a soft swing If you can see I also hooked to the wheel firewall screw with this the clutch wont move the firewall here is a video link with an awful ending BEWARE IF YOU HAVE KIDS OR HAVE A HEART PROBLEM DONT LOOK AT THE VIDEO YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED

I paid for all of this 170 bucks so its a big saving got an incredible deal from High Performance Parts & Accessories - Car Shop Inc. and sold me this combo I've bought so far: wilwood hydraulic master cnc slave 7/8 clutch line I just made this L bracket 2x2 outside firewall reinforcements plate installed with pedal engine looks I drilled and taped for 3/8 screws Im planing to S.S. helicoil them in the future heim joint in ebay for 3 usd 5/16 link 3/8 link I was amazed what SELLERSRODSHOP did but I dont have the welding skills and he got some problems later on becaus the master cylinder was offset changing that linkage out to heim joints should smooth things out a good bit. as far as the hydraulic setup, i cant help with the pull slave, but i've made a few of these master setups for guys & am installing one on my car right now (c4/t5 swap) . this is a CNC master, recommended on several sites, mounted in the original hole with good clearance around the stock booster. inside, i made this bracket that wraps around & bolts thru the clutch pedal & aligns with the pushrod on the cnc via a heim joint: heres a cross section view. helps to have a spare firewall section to set everything up with :)

pictures updated

they install just like motorsports my stang is stored, once I have a trip to the storage room I'll take some they did worked awesome on my brake issues and bumps on the road

Local shop is making this kits, Im just helping him to sell them, this kits work great and you just pay half the price 160 paypal Item Description: Mustang 1967-69 Bump Steer Corrector Kit. Bump steer is caused by the tie rod ends moving up and down as the suspension travels. When Mustangs are lowered, the tie rod ends get closer to a level position and under braking can actually go past the level position which causes the tires to toe outwards. This causes the car to pull from side to side during braking. Bump steer is corrected by relocating the outer tie rod downward with an intermediate spacer block that mounts on the spindle steering arm. This is a bolt on kit which requires no welding, heating, or bending of any kind. It will also quicken your steering ratio for better handling and road feel! unscrew the spindle from the arm tight the block to grind the arm screw secure it grind it fully flat surface uninstall it and put the spindle screw tight it secure pin installed drill spindle hole install block security holders fully tight the spindle screw fully tight the security holders if you want to be extra carefull I use on mine red locktight

heres a cross section view. helps to have a spare firewall section to set everything up with :) whats the size and name of the connetor from the hydraulic master that has a nut? ====(0)