Jump to content

snafu

Members
  • Content Count

    45
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by snafu


  1. 19 hours ago, danno said:

    From VIc's idea, maybe a monster shop vac?   thy with the hood up and flat.  Flat will require removing it. 

    Or maybe that expanding foam sealant. Fill all the holes with it?  

    Or go have a beer and be thankful you have such simple problems!

    I bet the shop vac would get it if you taped over all the holes.


  2. From WCCC: " C8AB-7630323-A Usually these will not have knobs. Plan on purchasing new knobs. Ask about our B grade knobs that will have some pitting or lusting issues. This is the correct "shorty" crank for a 1968 Cougar front window crank. It is the same length as the rear 1968 - 1970 but uses a center screw instead of a side Allen set screw. The 1969 - 1970 crank (with AM or no radio) looks the same but is longer. These shorter cranks were also used in conjunction with the factory door speakers used in the 1969 - 1970 so as not to rub on the tops of the speaker grilles. The portion that attaches to the splined shaft on the window regulator protrudes from the back 3/16" and will not clear the 71-73 rear interior panels properly. Ford part number C8AZ-7630322-A. The casting number seen on the backside commonly reads C8AB-7630323-A."

    https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/19wicrus.html?attribs=87


  3. I cut a repro bezel to fit. I had some more pictures of the process but imageshack lost them. Anyway, what I did was cut the opening wide enough for the din and filled the gaps top and bottom with some black plastic. I had to mill the sides of the bezel a little to squeeze the head unit through. The cage will not fit through at all so I cut the front of the cage at an angle to match the back of the bezel. With everything assembled its nice and tight.

     

    dscf0006bw.jpg

     

    dscf0007ch.jpg


  4. Do you have a way to view your choices together, like at a show or other car event?

     

    I had the same problem. I have two colors that I really like and I don't think either one would be a bad choice. I'd see a car in color #1 and say "that's the color!", then I'd see another car in color #2 and say "what was I thinking, that's the color!" Individually, I like them both, but when I see the two colors together, its obvious which one I prefer.


  5. I've got the same engine as you, pertronixII and flamethrower2 coil, and run a 570 Holley street avenger (electric choke). Car runs great, super throttle response.

     

    I haven't tried putting anything bigger on it, but haven't felt I needed to!

     

    +1 on the 570 Avenger. I have a stock 351W with 2V heads, Edelbrock Performer manifold, Pertronix and dual exhaust. The 570 Holley Avenger works great with nice throttle response as Flanders said. Starts good cold or hot which my old carb had trouble with.

     

    I don't know what cfm the original 4V Autolite carbs for these engines had, but I'm pretty sure it was less than 570.


  6. I really like this one from late 70's early 80's Mustangs and Capris. Its just a little smaller in diameter than stock but the grip is thicker and it feels a lot nicer. They're available in leather and vinyl. You just need to make sure you get one with a horn button as some Ford's had the horn on the turn signal back then!

     

    Leather wheel I refinished.

     

    dscn0284mv.jpg

     

    Vinyl wheel in the car.

     

    dscf0006jz.jpg


  7. Pak, thanks for showing the install in your gallery. Your method seems the simplest of all I've seen and I'll probably copy it.

     

    How did you handle the 1/2" side-to-side spacing difference? My first instinct is to just put 1/4" into each side, but I wonder if there would be any benefit in shifting the seats inboard or outboard 1/2".

     

    Also, do the Fieros seats sit further back than stock seats with your installation?

×
×
  • Create New...