carprojects
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Posts posted by carprojects
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I have a similar issue when it's cold. Please let us know what you find. From what I have read, it's supposed to be an issue with the pump.
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I had a very similar crack I noticed when I swapped engines this summer. I had done the shelby drop a couple years back with new control arms. When I found it I drilled out the end, to prevent propagation, where I could reach and welded it from both sides. It seems to be holding. I will have to remove the lower arm to fully check it and probably finish the weld. Frankly, I was amazed at how thin the metal was as I managed to burn through in one spot with a 90 amp welder.
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bigperm2, I sent a PM.
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I am not sure what the part that is the insert under the dash pad for the passenger side is called. Mine is cracked and am looking for another one. Anyone know where I can get one? It's a large single black compound curved piece. I think on the Mach 1's there's a clock, but mine is plane. It's above the glove box.
Thanks, David
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Cool. Thanks. Does anyone know the spec on lengths?
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So I found this info on Ebay and it seems to confirm that axles are compatible:
"This auction is for a matched pair of used Mustang 28 spline axles for the Ford 8 inch or 9 inch type rear end. The axles have a 5 lug 4 1/2 inch bolt circle. The axle bearings may need to be replaced since they are probably the original bearings. The axle studs have good threads but have been exposed to the weather so they are somewhat rusty but should work ok. The long axle measures 31 7/8 inches and the short axle measures 27 15/16 inches. The measurements are taken by hooking the tape to outside edge of the axle flange and measuring to the end of the axle. These axles will work with either single track, (Open), or posi-track Traction Lock differentials. Applications for these axles are 71-73 Cougar, 70 Fairlane, 70 1/2 Falcon, 70-71 Montego, 71-73 Mustang and 70-71 Torino with the 28 spline 8 inch or 9 inch Ford removable carrier type rear differential. If you have a question e-mail me before you bid. Buyer pays shipping from zip code 47660. Full payment is expected within 5 days of auction end. Sorry, no personal or business checks accepted. Please look at my other auctions for more gears and parts. Thanks for looking. Good Luck Bidding!!!"
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Does anyone know if 9" axles are compatible with 8" housings/centers? What spline is on the 8". I have a 69 coupe with an 8".
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So I rebuilt my power steering pump with a rebuild kit and new low pressure hose and now when the rpm's are low and I turn the wheel, the pump groans loudly. I have done the process of lifting the front of the car and turning the wheel side to side, both with the engine off and on. Would it still work if I put one of the plates inside the pump in backwards or something. The turning ability is just fine except for the groaning.
Thanks,
David.
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Just an FYI, when I picked up a rebuilt 302 mild performance engine, one of the guys there was telling me that the oils are going to even lower zddp concentration. They, of course, told me to add the comp cam additive and to use rotella 10W40 for the first 500 miles.
Edit: I forgot to mention this was as of about 1 month ago...
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Wasn't an unknown engine. I got the cam spec sheet (comp cam). It shows the firing order required, but thanks for the concern!!
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Thanks. I have the older 302 style firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. When I bought the engine it was positioned at TDC, but I couldn't see well enough in the spark plug hole to see the valves were seated fully or not. The valve cover and gasket are new and seem to be 'glued' probably due to new engine paint. I didn't want to tear the gaskets yanking them off.
By the way, if I wanted to start with say 10 degrees BTDC, which way do I turn the cap?
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I used a small C clamp to grab both the tab on the alternator housing and the support arm that connects to the block. It was a bit tricky to keep it on but was very easy to get the tension. I was able to stop squealing on my 100 amp alternator.
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I'm going to install a new distributor in my engine. The engine is at TDC, so I need to know where the dist should be pointing (before accounting for timing). Does anyone know?
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I recall reading somewhere that the 8 inch axles were the same as 9 inch axles. I may need to change my axles, but don't see 8 inch axles sold. Can I use a 9 inch axle? If so, what spline?
Thanks,
David.
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I recall reading somewhere that the 8 inch axles were the same as 9 inch axles. I may need to change my axles, but don't see 8 inch axles sold. Can I use a 9 inch axle? If so, what spline?
Thanks,
David.
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I just bought a 302 engine rated at 320h HP. I have been having tranny problems for some time now and plan to rebuild when I replace the engine at end of June. What can I do to the C4 (1970 and up version) to be able to handle higher horsepower. I have seen many kits on internet, but am a bit overwhelmed....
Thanks,
David
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During the rebuild I went through the valve body. I guess it's possible that one of the pistons is sticking. I will have to check into it. I hate draining it.... such a mess. It was also suggested to dig out the modulator pin and make sure it's moving freely, still have to drain...
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I posted this on network 54. Reposting here....
It was suggested to check the modulator. I have checked the vacuum to the modulator. It's good all the way to the manifold. It was also suggested to check the function of the modulator, not sure how to do that.
I rebuilt my c4 with the badshoe video and all went well. I replaced the gaskets and seals. It ran and shifted great for a long time. Recently the shifting behavior seems to be very sensitive to temperature. When the engine is cold, the shift between 1 and 2 and hard and happens at high rpm. It takes a couple of miles before it will shift into 3rd gear (seems like when it warms up a bit). When the engine is up to temperature, the shift behavior changes to be very smooth and quite early. The shift between 1 and 2 happens early, sometimes early in acceleration. The shift between 2 and 3 happens smooth but also can be what seems premature. Just a few weeks ago I drained it and replaced the pan seal that I had overtightened. It made no difference and the fluid looked good. I even drained the torque converter and primed it with a fresh quart (pumped it in through drain hole). Sorry for the run on note, just not sure where to go from here. Could it be a torque converter going bad? I didn't do anything to it during the rebuild.
Thanks, David
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So I had my car up on all 4's as I had to change the tranny gasket (since I overtightened it :whistling:). Anyway, as I was going through the gears I was looking at my driver side rear wheel spinning and the tire and rim were wobbling. About 4 months ago, I had to buy a new rim for the passenger side as that rim was bent. These are wheels vintique 68 repros, but I'm not sure if I'm overtightening the lug nut, have bent flanges on the axles, or what. I also recently bought new drum rotors. Maybe it's those. Any thoughts? I have a spare tire I can mount and see if it does the same. That will tell me if it's the rotors or axle flange.
Thanks.
(by the way i've been on this site for a long time, just changed my username)
David.
69 coupe
Heater Core Replacement
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
I have same setup with AC and heater core in the one box. Actually, if you just remove the glove box and fire you can wiggle it out from under the dash. I've done this a few times.
Also, reproduction heater cores are weak at the point where they solder the tubes to the main part of the core. Mine started leaking when I was pulling the hose off, the solder joint holding the copper tube came off also. I propane torch / soldered it back on and it's much stronger. Just saying you may want to preemptively do this as it could save you a teardown.