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miketyler

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Posts posted by miketyler

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Sorry - just saw this. I cant find my pics on the shifter rod but can take some if you like. Was pretty sure I posted some here. I did use aluminum rod first to make a pattern as it was easier to bend than the stainless. If these guys made their original work then you can always go that route. I may have said before but be sure to check your pressures before you take it for first drive.

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Hookers are notorious for bad fit. I bought a set of new ceramic Hookers and nearly destroyed them to get them to fit everywhere but the biggest foul was clearing the pitman arm at full right turn.

     

    Despite all that modifying, the drivers side hung too low to be practical (4" drop) and I removed and installed Sanderson shorties. Those headers cleared everywhere. It was a night and day difference in fit.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    I don't think there is one end-all, be-all type source. Most of us buy whats available and reference it. The Osborn guides are probably your best bet if you are looking for an assembly book with illustrations. Its a collection of drawings that Osborne has apparently purchased reprint rights for from Ford. It is not the most complete book but does cover a lot of information.

     

    There is also an "exploded view" book that has a good collection of drawings that has some value. The MPC is very cheap and good for part number ID. It's available on CD but may take some time finding things as it catalogs many different models and much of it is many pages of line items.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    That metal work looks very straight. I don't blame you for not wanting to cut it up. The rear wheels on my car are 17x11" and I believe have 6.75" backspacing. Yes, they are crazy close to the springs but they don't rub. Inner fender lips are rolled and the forward lower section of each wheel house had to be lightly beat in with a BFH.

     

    The drop on the car is 4" all the way around with rear springs de-arched 2" and 2" blocks added. The front I dropped by doing the Arning/Shelby drop and cutting 1.5 coils off the springs. I don't scrape but if there are high spots or low spots in the road I try to avoid them. I don't carve corners with the car either. Its purpose-built for looks, comfort, and reliability.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    I think I read that it senses differential pressure at the junction block although it wasn't clear to me what that meant and how that was a signaled defect in the brake system.

     

    I assure you all the lamp housing is/was repo'd. I wish I had saved the picture. It was like new with a shiny zinc-like coating. Maybe someone on VMF remembers seeing them on eBay. Seems like they ran that auction for a month or two with lame sales.

  18. Posted · Edited by miketyler
    fixed typo     · Report reply

    I haven't heard any bad comments on quality but there was one guy on VMF that had a customer service qualm with him. Personally I would use him or one of the others in a heartbeat if I needed the service depending on reviews and pricing.

     

    All that aside, cosmetics are expensive. The cleaning, stripping, plastic welding and repairing, plating and final detailing costs time and money. When I was looking for someone to do my panels I was quoted anywhere from $450-$700+repairs for chrome and paint detailing on the instrument and clock panels only.

     

    The 69 repo panel is a good value to avoid much of this expense and all you have to do is paint in the argent. Many on here have done it with good results and can share techniques and their experience. I see no sense in paying $50+ for lens polishing when you can buy a new repo set of lenses that are crystal clear with no fogging for $40.

     

    Instrument repairs however require skills and equipment that few of us have and outside of possibly a quartz clock conversion are probably best left to professionals.

  21. Posted · Edited by miketyler
    found link     · Report reply

    I got the car back today. I disconnected all cables and carb accelerator arm operates smooth with the normal resistance when it gets close to the WOT position. What is causing the binding seems to be the Lokar AOD cable.

     

    You can hear and feel the spring binding up on the cable housing when pulled thru to the end of travel. I remember a post where someone had this same condition and they shortened the spring and cut the cable housing back at the transmission end though I am unsure whether it was here or on VMF. Anyone experienced bonding on a Lokar AOD cable near the end of the travel?

     

    EDIT: Found it:

    http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/660179-aod-fine-tuning-advice.html

  22. Posted · Edited by miketyler · Report reply

    I have bought a few now and other than minor paint trimming have been pretty satisfied. You do have to be careful when masking the chrome. Here's a pic of a standard gauge cluster that I have for sale now and it came out great. I did notice the chrome trim around the pods on one of the newest ones I have puchased seems to have been molded flat resulting in a slightly thicker and more bold trim ring. Still its a great looking panel.

     

    00q0q_2eq7h1z2qzj_600x450.jpg

  24. Posted · Report reply

    I would like to put HIDs in my car but haven't had the time. I like projectors but they don't look right on an old Mustang. I would have to get the proper reflector for HID bulb and retrofit the reflector and the bulb into an H4 housing.

     

    Many take the shortcut and just put HID bulb's in halogen housings. This wont provide the light cutoff needed and spreads the light differently than the HID is designed for and can blind oncoming drivers. What I cant stand are the colored halogen bulbs in blue or purple that I think decrease visibility. In my area these are usually seen in the large SUV's with 26" wheels.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks Prayers. I will have to see this for myself. I argued that the AOD should go into passing gear with a sudden throttle increase (say 3/4 travel) and shouldn't have to go to full WOT. Regardless I need to investigate the throttle bind. Cant believe I have 300 miles on it now and it hasnt been going to WOT.

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