StephenC
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Posts posted by StephenC
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With the amount of money I would end up spending on a Watts link, caltracs, leaf springs, shocks, and all the other misc parts it would come out to be about the same price as a 4 link which is better ride quality and I like the fact that is has the height adjusting coil overs. Is a watts link with a good set of leaf springs and caltracs comparable in handling and control to a 4 link?
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How do you plan to use the car?Mainly street it will see very little strip time, but I really want it to handle great under hard turn and launches. I was checking out TCI has a new triangulated 4 link which is pretty well priced
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I can see that could be a problem, check out the pics on this link, they all definitely don't look the same.When I picture Acapulco blue this looks correct to me. Good luck!
YES! That is the Acapulco blue that looks correct to me also. Maybe slightly lighter but that is close enough for me to settle with. Thanks for that man! Got to go get some samples tomorrow.
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Ahhhhhh OK because I thought the car looked Winter Blue when I got it but then all the tags said Acapulco Blue. Do you or anyone else know if PPG 13357 Acapulco Blue is a good match or is there another brand that has a closer match? I read on VMF that PPG 13357 is darker than original Acapulco Blue?
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So I am really confused right now with trying to find the correct PPG color that my 1969 Mustang Fastback originally was. On my Ford 999 report it says it was Acapulco Blue my data plate has color code 6 which is Med. Blue Met (Brt.) This is the only picture I could find of the color it was when I got it. What color does that look like to you and does anyone know the PPG code for either of those colors?
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I think the amount of welding involved isn't too different between 3 or 4 link systems.Most 4 link systems I have been looking into require no welding, the only reason I want a 4 link or a 3 link is because I will be having to install it laying on my back on my garage floor and the torque arm of the 3 link would be easy in that position. I was looking at Rod and Customs 4 link as well as TCP the TCP does require a little welding on the diff but thats something I could handle. If you know of any other manufactures who make a quality rear suspension in my price range let me know.
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What is a good triangulated 4 link that is cost efficient and will handle well? I am looking to spend under 2k on the rear suspension. Not really interested in the 3 link systems just because it seems like so much work to have to do without having access to a lift to really get under the car.
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Is it original Ford tooling?
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I need a good passenger side dash cove plastic piece. I am looking for the plain black base interior piece, no clock, no emblems. I would settle for the black one with the clock or delete panel also, just no woodgrain.I need two of them.
I am in west central florida.
Help!
I have 1, I will have to check it out as far as condition goes. Its black, standard no clock or emblems.
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Great, good to know, thanks! It looks like a fun job! I went with this kit http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/140-11071/10002/-1. It was really to install, looks great and works with my Magnum 500's.Those are the exact type calipers I was looking at except for the rear. What size Magnums are you running?
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So I finally made a decision and went with a nice Wilwood front kit set up and I have rebuilt my rear drums for now (budget's getting a little tight with what I told the misses it would cost). Rear discs to follow down the road. I also have decided to upgrade to power assist, so I have the booster with pedal headed this way. Question, can I mount the power pedal to the current bracket or do I need an entirely new one to mount to the firewall?Nope you can mount the pedal to your existing pedal assembly no problem. I dont even thing you will have to take it out of the car. What Willwood brakes did you go with? I am currently looking at a set of discs from them for my rear and once I get money ones for the front also.
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Are you going to be installing the MII or are you going to pay someone? Personally I went with the MII so I can drop in the 4.6 Mod motor. But if you are already going to have the shock towers out and planning on upgrading the suspension I would just go with the MII setup. Better ride quality and its fairly close to what you are looking to spend to get basically stock replacement parts. I bought my MII setup from Speedway motors. Its the same exact kit as TCI and Heidts selld they just use there own crossmembers so its alittle cheaper. For mine with coilovers 5/8" narrowed tubular UC and LC I paid around $1800 but they have just bassic kits for around $1200 if I remember correctly?
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For the lengths between mounting holes http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=10809
And I'm pretty sure 69/70 are the same.
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Wondering if I can use 2.54 offset brakes when my axles are set for 2.5? .04" wouldn't seem like a big deal to me?
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I haven't replaced those yet, but I would assume some RTV clear silicone would work fine.
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If you are considering getting a 9" check out Winter-Racing. I just had a Fab9 built by Jim over there and its exactly like the TCP Fab9 just at a much cheaper cost.
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I have just started my Modular setup. The Mustang II I paid $1800 for and I called around some places to see what it would cost to have installed when I wasnt feeling up to the task and they all said around $800. I ended up doing it myself which wasnt as hard I as originally thought it was. I got some prices on the motor and trans it was 7k for the 4.6 DOHC supercharged with T56 trans. The computer and harness is another $800 I got the 4.6 motor mounts from Rod and Customs. I would figure for everything needed to do the swap it would be around $12000
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Just wanted to say thanks I just got my Fab9 and everything is correct. If anyone needs a beefy 9" or just likes the looks of the Fab9 and doesnt want to pay the price tag on one of the TCP Fab9 I would get a hold of Jim Winters over at Winters-Racing.net he is a really good guy and does great work for a good price. He can build any sized housing you need with any options and can set it up for coil overs or shackles. Got to say that my experience with him has been nothing but great. Only took him 3 or 4 days to build it from nothing!
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These prices are just prices that I have seen personally which I thought were pretty good deals. Some of your parts maybe worth more or less depending but it gives you a idea of what they are worth. Btw that sucks about the rimblow those things are NOT cheap by any means.
Shaker assembly $700 (that was on a 69 Mustang though)
Headlight buckets $120 a piece (I think thats what I paid for mine same condition)
Magnum 500's maybe $800
Glass around $100
Depends what kind of diff it has but around $400 each is what I've seen them go for.
Gauge Bezel I'm not so sure about but I'd say $120?
Bumpers which ever one needs rechromed like $40 the good one $80
Hoods maybe $80-100 each
Quarter windows $80 each.
These are all rough estimates some could be high some could be low but like I said its just what I have seem parts go for on Craigslist, eBay and other places like those. Hope this helps some.
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I just installed a Mustang II IFS in my 69 FB havent gotten it on the road yet so I cant say anything for the ride. But as far as installation goes it is very straight forward. I bought the kit from SpeedWay motors. It uses all the same components as the TCI/Heidts kit just at a much cheaper cost. Mine was around $1300 w/o cross member but thats because I opted for coil over drop spindles 5/8" narrowed tubular control arms and PS. The cross member was another $399 I believe from Heidts. And it comes with every nut and bolt. They offer kits ranging from $999 - $1899 w/o crossmember. Here is the one that at bought at speedway just as a reference. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustang-II-Coilover-IFS-w-Tubular-Control-Arms,35674.html
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The distance from the tube flange to the axle shaft flange is where your brakes mount essentially. Since they are building a housing are you going with a torque arm? 31 spline axles? Anything special?OK I am having them build it to 54 1/4" thanks guys. Its a Fab 9" rear housing with truss back brace, I just ordered a Strange Nodular 3rd member case, 31 spline Detroit Locker, aluminium Daytona pinion support, and going to go get the axles and bearings tomorrow. I am probably going to go with the Mustang Steve 99-04 disk conversion and for suspension I will be using the Rod & Customs triangulated 4 link.
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So I should have it built to 54 1/4" then. That article says 59 1/4" from flange to flange subtract 5" for bare housing. But thats confusing because if its 59 1/4" from flange to flange there is nothing else on the housing that would ass 5"?
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So from flange to flange is 59 1/4" without axles and everything? That seems to big? I measure my 8" that came out and flange to flange was only 52 1/4"? So the 9" is 3 1/2" on each side?
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I am having a Fab9 rear end build for my 69 FB and need the length from flange to flange on a 9" I know the overall length is 59 1/4" but that doesn't help me much because that measurement is from axle axles I believe.
4 Link Advice?
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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So you guys think that a watts link and caltracs would be better than a triangulated 4 link? That would be a lot easier than a 4 link but checking out prices I would spend about the same amount either way so it really comes down to which is more performance based.