StephenC
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Posts posted by StephenC
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I just installed a pair of leafs from Maier Racing with the 1 1/4" drop, I'm running 275/60/15 in the rear and from the ground to the middle of the wheel well it measures 28 3/4". Dont know what sized tires youre running but hope this helps your decision.
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There are 2 adjustment points. One between the hinge and the pillar, the other between the hinge and the door.It sounds like you need to loosen the bolts that hold the hinge to the door and adjust it in or out as needed.
Were any body panels replaced?
Tim
The adjustment on the hinge to door is already adjusted all the way in so I cant get the bottom of the door to go in any further that way. Yes Both doors were re-skinned, original door frames just the outer skin was replaced.
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I started to put some parts back on my 69 fb (doors and fenders) but I cant get the damn doors to line up AT ALL! the gap between the door and quarter is fine, the main problem on the driver side is where the door meats the rocker, the door is out further about a half inch from the rocker. The passenger side is horrible, everything it out of line. Are suggestions here? Can you use shims on the doors? Say put a shim on the top door hinge to push the bottom in some?
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9 1/2" circumference is 3" diameter. Multiply diameter by pi for circumference.Bob
I should of paid better attention in high school, I feel pretty dumb now. Lol I feel pretty dumb now.
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So I had a custom rear end made for my 69 FB project and I'm just getting now getting around to getting all the parts together. My question is I'm not sure what size axle U-Bolts it takes for the leaf springs, I looked for some references and they all say the ID of the U-Bolt should be 3.25" but I measured the circumference of my axle tube and it measured 9.5" so wouldn't I need an axle bolt with an ID of 4.75'? Am I missing something here or did the builder just use a bigger size axle tube? Any input is appreciated. Also if I do need a 4.75" U-Bolt anyone know where I can find one, I looked all over and found nothing and I doubt a homedepot U-Bolt would suffice and hold up. Thanks.
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I'm going with a fuel cell from Atomic Fabrications. But if your looking for factory I've heard Scott Drake makes a good repro.
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I'm thinking I may do a combination of both methods....finding the thick, brush on stripper for large surfaces, and clean up the edges with the abrasive methods....Thats exactly what I did. Started out with my sand blaster for the hard to get places then used aircraft stripped on most of the body panels then finished it off with some 80 grit on my DA sander. Didn't take much time at all.
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I had this same problem with my old 351W. Turns out one of the cam lobes were worn down real bad as well as the lifter. It would start up run fine for about 5 minutes it would then backfire then shutdown. Not saying its the same as your situation but if at wits end and have checked everything else that would be worth while.
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No, all 4 speeds are not toploaders. In the 65/66 cars 4 speed trannys could be either toploaders or Borg Warner T-10s. The toploader can be ID'd by the bolt-on cover on the top through which all of the internal were loaded. T-10's have a cover on the side. The top loaders are as the name implies, the cover is on the top. There should be a metal tag on the trans that reads something like RUG-AW that will ID. it. Go to http://www.4speedtoploaders.com for a chart.
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Wow man that is amazing work! I wish I had half your knowledge and could do that in my garage.
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AHA! I didn't really pay attention when I installed mine. I check and I can flip them around for more clearance like you are saying. Thanks man.
And Yeah they offer good lumbar support. I could drive in those seats for hours on end with no aches.
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Did you try swapping ends with the bracket, which bolts to the floor, under the seat tracks? It appears to have more "set back" on one end over the other. If I was home right now I would shoot a pic of the bracket for you. I'm in LA for the weekend, to attend the "Fabulous Fords Forever" show at Knotts Berry Farm.No I haven't tried that yet. Once I get the car rolling again I will have to check that out. Nice build though man it looks great! Snap some pics at the show! :clap:
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I have those same seats in my 69 and love them! The only problem I have had with them are that they dont seem to go back as far as my originals and being that I'm 6'3" it makes it alittle hard to get in and out of. Are you doing the rear seat as well to match the Scat?
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Just to let anyone know who was interested I called Classic Auto Glass Innovations today and they said they will be rolling out the flush mount glass for the 69/70 Fastbacks at the end of this summer. You can get placed on the early order list and save about $500 on your total order.
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I use 80W90 with some of Fords limited slip additive....its a small little white 6 oz bottle...Its some times called friction modifier i think.Just put that in there, and fill with oil till it just starts coming out of the hole your filling it in.
Bada Bing Bodda Bang
Mike
This ^
I've always used 80W90 LS
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They also make hood struts that replace the spring all together with which would be good for a fiberglass or carbon fiber hood. http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Fiberglass/fiberglass_hoods.htm
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My American Auto Wire kit says the wire is Tan on pin 15 of the harness for fuel.
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Cobra Disc brakes use 13" rotors. Those won't clear the 15" wheels the OP is planning to use.Ahhhhh thats right I forgot, never mind then you would have to run at least a 17"
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I am getting my Dynapro rear discs from Wilwood tomorrow, the car wont be running for awhile but I have heard good things about Wilwood from multiple people. For front brakes have you checked out mustangsteve's Cobra front disc brake conversion? I know a couple people on this forum are using the kit.
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I saw a show recently where they discussed how to do it with the factory glass. Basically you use shims to set your glass height, then bring your sheetmetal in to a gap of around a 1/4" - then this flush mount rubber gasket can be bought that fills the gap and holds the glass.I wish I could remember what show it was, but it was interesting to see how they do it.
I think I saw that also? Was it on Horsepower TV on Spike TV? I think it was Muscle Car?
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Has anyone heard of flush mount glass for 69 fb yet? I came across a thread on VMF where they were talking about Classic Auto Glass Innovations making them but checked there website and nothing about Mustangs yet. I guess they did it on a 66 but havent contacted them yet about any other years. Anyone know of any other places that have flush mount glass? I think its a pretty cool concept for a RestoMod.
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You can get AJE Racing's rear 4 link kit for a grand http://ajeracing.com/64-70Mustang.phpThere is an install thread on the VMF in the Mod & Custom section.
I would be worried about Quadrabind with that setup but its does look like a really nice setup.
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Ahhhh I see, well I already have the MII upfront and am going to put a 4.6 SVT in it which I am planning to make 600 HP with the Whipple Gen 2 twin screw supercharger, so the way I figure it is like you are saying why spend all this money on the whole car and then cheap out when it comes to suspension. But honestly I have no problem using the caltracs and watts link as long as I wont get any wheel hop, binding, wrap up, and it still shaves corners like a champ.
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5 leaf mid or reverse eye springs?
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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I agree with you 100% Mike is the best guy, I still have to get my Billstein shocks but I'm using the Maier spring plate panhard bar and leafs. The panhard bat was super easy to put in I thought it was gonna be a pain!