manley
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Posts posted by manley
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Many years ago, when I had my 73 coupe, I got pulled over and given a seat belt ticket because I was not wearing the shoulder belt, which is detachable from the lap belt. The officer told me since the car was equipped with it from the factory, it was required to be worn. This was in Ohio.
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One of mine is off so bad that I can't even wiggle the scoop in at all. The other side, I'm able to get the scoop in, but can't get it high enough because the bracket is welded on just slightly too low. I imagine Buckeyedemons's results will be similar to what I have to accept on my car, as well. There probably isn't much we can do about this, unfortunately.
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I'm not sure... I can't get them to line up well enough at the moment. I think BuckeyeDemon dealt with this same issue. Hopefully he chimes in soon.
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I'm using Dynacorn Full Quarters and original Ford scoops.Were having a hard time getting the side scoop to relax against the body panel.
I'm doing the same and have figured out that I will need to cut the flat part of the mount off and weld again in order to aligned the bolt holes correctly. These are not correctly welded to the brackets attached to the quarter itself.
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If not, I would start looking to the Mustang yards for a piece cut from a parts car.
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I thought you could buy like a 12 inch section?
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They pinched them quite a bit so that people could easily get a socket on the manifold/header bolts. It seems to be all about ease of access. This is my biggest problem with real headers, tiny bolts that come loose all the time because ignition wrenches seem to be all that fit.Also, you have to remember that the heads these bolted to were far from champs at flowing on the exhaust side. These things flow OK for the crappy factory heads, but anything aftermarket the ports on the heads will be bigger than the tubes on these headers.
Makes sense.....thanks for the insight.
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Agreed. Those things don't flow worth a damn.Any idea why Ford didn't design them to flow better?
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Ah hell, it appears only the third picture loaded at home. NevermindI was wondering how you missed that, but I didn't want to be the jerk to call you out on it. lol :1eye:
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I don't see the Mach 1 side stripes, so I doubt it is one. Closer inspection would help (and the door codes).My car didn't have any signs of the Mach 1 stripes ever existing. A lot can happen in 40 years. The chance they pulled the fender emblems off and filled the holes is not as likely as getting rid of the stripes due to a repaint. But yes, the codes are the determining information.
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Pretty sure they don't make the resistor. We discussed this in another thread not long ago. Unfortunately, the one in the link above is not correct, I believe.
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Corrugated cardboard maybe? I think I would install some factory speaker grills to improve the cosmetics a little. But that would kill the budget if you don't already have them.
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It looks like it is a Mach 1.... no emblem on the fender. However, it looks like the quarter emblem is missing too. Could be either. Value depends on many things. There is potentially a big variance.
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Why not get a set of 71-73 Mustang spindles? I've never understood the fascination for Granada spindles.
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Take an experience Mustang guy (or three) that has restored a car to look at the car with you. Every set of eyes is looking for something different due to their own past experience. It's amazing what one person misses and another catches.
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The rust holes on the C pillar and below the rear window concern me. Everything can be fixed, but this will test your skills, wallet, and commitment to your dream. This is not going to be easy or quick if you want to do it right. The damage you *can't* see is going to be worse than the damage you *can* see. Get the car up in the air, on a lift and check for rust everywhere. I have a feeling this car is going to be a pretty big project.
On the positive side, parts for a 66 coupe are among the cheapest and easiest to acquire! And if you like working with you hands, there is a lot of fun to be had! The price sounds fair, too.
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Get some snips(http://www.wisstool.com/) and start cutting a little at a time. Test fit frequently. Trim a little more, test fit, repeat. Personally, I like to cut the new piece more than the original metal. Just take it slow and it will come together with some patience.
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Other than the ribbing not being correct on any of them, I have never read any negative comments about any one piece floor pan in the years they have existed. I personally bought one at a swap meet for the cheapest price I could find and it was excellent.
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Do you have any pics? The more the better so we can help determine if the conversion was done properly. It's a huge safety issue if some things were not upgraded.
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I have ordered most of my parts from NPD. I have always received great customer service and only have one complaint about a part a bought.... which we finally figured out here on this site awhile back. They were selling 67-68 monte carlo bars as 69-70 monte carlo bars. Good thing they are cheap.
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Here are a couple pics that might help you visualize what you are working with.
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That looks like the framerail extension/floor support. They are cheap and it should be easy to replace the whole thing. It is spot welded to the underside of the floor and overlaps over top the frame rail. Grind, cut and drill till it comes off. Drill holes in flanges of the new one and "spot" weld it into place. You could possible also patch it, but I think I would replace the whole thing.
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From what I can tell, there are two designs for the torque boxes, one is designed to be installed without touching the toeboards in your car. You wasting your time buying torque boxes already welded together. As latoracing said, either buy the 2 piece setup, or cut the one piece apart. this is a MUST, in my opinion.
Depending on what you buy, you may have to modify them more by cutting off sections that are sandwiched between the toeboard and the framerail. One version of the torque box is already designed without this tab and another version has the tab(which is actually what you want if you are replacing the toeboard, too). Other differences will be in how the flanges are bent. They need to be bent in order to allow you access to weld them to the car. Depending on what you buy, you may have to bend these the opposite way... it should be kind of obvious, I think, once you start test fitting the pieces.
Don't be scared to weld them in very well! And don't leave any bare metal to rust all over again!
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How do your firewall extensions/toeboards look? When I replaced my toeboards and torque boxes, it appeared no paint was ever applied to the "hidden" surfaces of each, which caused them to rust away. The condition of the toeboard is going to determine how you tackle this issue and which torque boxes to buy.
70 Vert Potential
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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You really need to get underneath it and check the floor, frame rails and torque boxes. Structural integrity is more important than most of what you listed and will determine the value since it isn't a big block car or anything rare.