Fordrevhead
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Posts posted by Fordrevhead
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I agree with Jeep. I'm not a fan of the stripe. To much of a Burger King/Redskins look for me. Maybe if the second one had the darker stripe I would like that one.Phil69, If you are planning on keeping the car, I would paint it how you want. Enjoy the car for you not others in the future. I've kept cars stock colors and I've never gotten rich owning them. My two cents.
Jim
Keep in mind that the stripes almost never photo right, Especially with a flash, since they are reflective. If you have ever photographed one you know.
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RM for me too. I painted the Fox body I had that color too! I used DP90 black sealer underneath to darken it slightly. In these photos the paint job was 18 years old. Not bad for acrylic enamel. It was never wet sanded or machine buffed... ever.
As you can see my truck is a similar Dodge color as well.
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They basically should route straight down from the pump by the oil filter. Arguments for behind or in front of the fuel line have been had. Then they go through the holding block shown in the photo. Then they make a loop to the control valve. There must be slack for center link travel. Then clamp the lines to the control valve to prevent fatigue and bending.
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That all looks correct to me. You have a proper Mustang close ratio toploader which also has the tailshaft mounting holes for the big block shifter kit. The aluminum version bracket of the Hurst comp plus shifter mounts to the tailshaft. As long as nobody monkeyed with the shift rods you should be set. Verify that it has the bent shift handle not the straight one or you will not have enough sideways travel for a couple gears. good luck
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The studs are swedged to the drum to hold the drum in place. This teamed with rust can be bad. If the drum breaks you'll have a hard time getting the broken parts off the hub (as a press is no longer a help). So, since you're replacing the drums, find the swedges and grind them off. It's a great time to replace the studs too if you wish. Once the swedges are free you can press on the hub snout and only rust must be overcome.
Lol... If the "drum breaks." See what I did there?
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FRH,It looks like from the pics you provided it looks like the cut out for the inside door release is a larger opening. In the first pic you cant see it but in the second one you can see part of it & it looks like both pics are at the same angle.
I see that ... Yet the woodgrain inserts seem to be the same for 69 and 70. I also dont think the angle of the pic is the same. The top front edge appears different. Other sites show no difference in this area.
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Oh... So my headlights and dash lights started to dim in and out, not off, just quick flickering. I was thinking alternator, but I'm unsure. I need to check that and the battery to make sure they're hood.Any idea as to what it could be? After the car is warmed up, I'll stall when coming to a stop, as well. It kind of really sucks! Could be related issues, since it seems to happen more when I have the headlights on. Could be coincidence.
OK, If they checked the charging system and did it correctly and said its good than the voltage reg. should be ok.
As far as the stalling it may or may not be related. If it starts right back up it's probably not related but still could be an intermittent electrical problem.
That all being said I have seen the following things cause this on these old cars: bad grounds, bad headlight switch, bad voltage regulator, among other less obvious things.
I would start with cleaning grounds.
Oh, and do you have stock headlights or running halogens? Sometimes these can overdraw the headlight switch.
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I think the door cups (where you put your hand in) are different lengths.Metal ones are available so don't buy plastic ones.
...there's a good thread on this as well:
What I cant tell from that is if I would be able to use the 70 cups on a 69 panel.
Seems like since I have the 69 panels NIB, have a set of 69 donor panels, have a 69 sport mirror and bezel, that I will be using all 69 stuff. But if the 70 cup is improved maybe I should use that.
My project thread hasnt been updated since last March. Have been building shelfs and storing parts. Started a large shelf for new or restored and painted parts in the basement. Been selling off parts to make room. Also switched gears to the 64.5 for a bit. Back to the 70 chassis soon!
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I didnt realize the 69 had different shaped bezel than the 70. I would like to find a nice pair of black deluxe panels for my 70. I have a nice pair of red ones that I was going to dye but now am looking at all my options.This has come up before over on VMF. In years past they only sold one door panel and you had to cut out for the 69 remote mirror... this is what leads me to believe that they are otherwise identical:
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/486776-mirror-bezel-question.html
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Other than the remote mirror mount being rectangular on the 69 and round on the 70 on the drivers door does anyone know of any other differences from the 69 deluxe (mach 1) door panels and the 70?
Are the door latches different? I see an extra hole in the inserts on the 70's.
I have a pretty decent pair of deluxe 69 donors for the trim and inserts AND a pair of new in the box $350 69 panels from Mustangs Unlimited. I am considering using these on the 70 although my plan was just the 70 black panels as introducing the wood grain doors means I have to do the dash to match... not that I dont like it just more parts and money.
69:
http://www.cjponyparts.com/images/1000/DPD3B.jpg
70:
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Does sound like a charging issue. Could be alt, voltage regulator or crap wiring. This will definately reduce power since your spark will be crap.
Regarding the carb spacer, this will add a little low end torque due to charge velocity by increasing the runner length, aid in atomization and perhaps most importantly in the summer, keep the fuel in the carb cooler.
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7k is obtainable. Depending on cam, lifters and heads it may not pay to run much above that. Strength depends on a lot of other factors too. Hp, stroke, bore, crank, NA or boosted, piston height, rods, bolts, etc. The block and webbing is only one piece of the equation.
There are probably more combinations of parts for strokers now than there are cam an intake kits for 302s... Its crazy!
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7-8k? Better buy a dart block and have it balanced well!
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Cool, I have a local good friend that drives a BMW by day and a Fox body at the track and to shows. What gears and trans are both cars running? Final drive ratio is the single biggest factor in the pulling factor... besides engine torque of course.
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Well built car! Did you see it from the spectator angle? The sound of the crowd says it all!
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83 has the double hump pan and the dipstick is in the passenger side of the pan. More importantly, as mentioned, you need to use the longer fox body pickup tube as well!
But yes, the oil pan bolt patterns are all the same on ALL 289s and 302's.
Even more importantly you could have a crank set for 50oz external balance instead of 28. Then you need the proper balancer and flywheel or it will shake itself apart in no time and they will have a serious warranty issue! Good time to make the shop buy you some new parts! They should spin balance the entire rotating assembly with these parts on it.
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Thats what I recommended to him....I saw that, but he didnt list it as an option. :innocent:
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I have been considering a Pontiac hood tach. They were std it seems on a lot of 68-73? Pontiacs. GTO's, etc. You can find them easily for half of the Mustang one. Just have to mod the face place. :)
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Or buy a pre bubble flared length of tubing, cut the othe end off and add the std double flare on? All would work, time, money and availabilty come in to play.
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Actually, you are correct. Only my repo short pan was flanged down so I flipped it up. The two board just sits on the torque box. My before pic shows it clearly.
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If you dont find one, Perogie's has them for $150
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That kinda works with soft tubing. They do make a bubble flaring kit as opposed to the single and double flaring kit.
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My drivers short pan and toe boards were flanges down and I switched them both to up to match my 70 coupe from the factory. No clue why.
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Edelbrock makes both the Pro-Flo round and their Victor series in black powder coat. The Victor is flat aluminum the other is the typical stamped steel. Of course if you dont want any logos I would suggest just buying plain No name cheap brand and having them powder coated.
Routing Power Steering Hose
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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Mustangs Unlimited, but also CJ Pony, NPD and bluedotspecialties all have them... Many more I am sure.