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Vicfreg

1970 Convertible Restoration

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Thanks everyone for the comments.   Slow going this summer, have a lot going on...

Finally got my Front hubs/brakes/wheels installed.   See my post in the technical forum on my issues with the clearance between the Foose Wheels and the Cobra Rotors.  Topic on the Technical Forum is titled "Front Disc Brake Rotor Hub-Centric Alignment on Old Drum Brake Hubs"

 

 

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Finally got my emergency brake installed.  Used the stock footbrake setup with my 2004 Cobra rear disc brakes.    Used 2004 emergency brake cables and a variety of pieces and parts from the original cables to make it work.  Came out pretty good.  I will post the details on the technical forum under "Rear disc brake parking brake project"

 

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Started my wiring project.  Using an AAW harness.    Will post pictures as I go along.

My first chore was to install the fuse block.   I did not use the long sheet metal screws, as I did not like the screw protruding through the firewall in the fender area.   I used 10-24 threaded studs from Lowes, and stainless steel acorn nuts on the outside and nylock nuts on the inside.    The AAW template is excellent and the holes fit perfectly.   I drilled my holes from the outside, which I could do, as my fenders are off.  Drilling from the inside will require some patience.   

Posted a question in the Technical Forum about suggestions on where to locate/mount the AAW relay pack.  Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

 

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Vic, nice work. I will be following your install closely since I am right about to start my AAW harness install in a couple weeks on my 69 Coupe. Keep the pics coming.

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Decided to start with the back of the car, as I will be using a trunk mounted battery.   The AAW kit has a separate rear wiring harness that can accommodate all of the stock items typically found in the rear of the car, plus allows use of LED taillights, and a 3rd brake light if desired.  A couple pics showing the connector under the dash, and the wiring going through the drivers side hole, and routed through the floor channel to the back of the car.   I used nylon split wire loom to encase it.    One note - In my case, with the convertible, I have the original plus a spare power top wiring harness which I will re-use.   

For my trunk mounted battery, I purchased a raw steel Optima battery tray from Artec that was designed for back mounting.  I will use this to mount my battery accessory plate to.   This plate is 1/2" Birch Plywood sandwiched in between some steel sheet.  I plan to mount my battery disconnect switch, remote mounted starter solenoid, and some battery terminal junction blocks here.   A picture of the mock up in my trunk is below.   Everything is in primer for now.  

You probably noticed my starter solenoid is mounted upside down. That is intentional for now. I am likely going to use some MIDI fuse holders, and just playing with the layout for now.

 

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Good question. (I actually am using a Jegs high torque mini starter).  Since I have a trunk mounted battery,  I don't want an unfused wire that is running from the back of the car to the front that is hot all of the time.  With my set up, the starter wire is only hot when the trunk mounted solenoid is energized while you are starting the car.  The other wires that are hot (like the main fuse box feed) will be protected by either fusible links, or MIDI fuses.    My experience has been that the starter draws too much current to install a fuse that will not blow when the starter motor is cranking, but still protect the cable.

 

 

 

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I did a slight retreat yesterday, to make sure I had all of my anticipated wiring items identified.   Of course, I found some things I had wanted to do, so I decided to take the harness out, since I really had not terminated anything yet.   My additions are going to be in the trunk area, where I want to use an extra couple wires that are in the AAW rear harness to run some accessories in the trunk.  Namely, my power amp "turn on" from the head unit in my dash, and some LED trunk lighting that I want to tie into my door switch/courtesy light feed.  I will use the optional 3rd brake light wire and add another wire to the AAW rear harness plug so I have a nice, neat cable going from front to rear.  

After some research, I decided to wrap my harness with Scotch "88" electrical tape.  

I also sent some questions to AAW to make sure I understood which hot feeds were "key on" versus "battery hot".   They responded almost immediately, and have been very helpful.

I sourced some MIL-SPEC battery cables on Ebay that I will re-purpose for my trunk mounted battery wiring.  There are quite a few of these on Ebay, and are new, surplus parts from HumVees, etc.  The ones I got are size 0 AWG and are pre-crimped.  You can't beat the price, and for sure, the quality.  These Presolite cables have over 1000 strands of tin plated copper wire.  I will buy some size 1 or 2 cables to feed my power amp in the trunk.

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Your Mustang has come a long way since I saw it at Mike's place 11 months ago. Just a heads up/reminder that if you're using a newer stereo receiver, it needs an always on 12v source from the battery  for the clock and station pre sets. But,  you probably knew that. Keep up the good work!

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Moving on my wiring harness. Got it wrapped (used Scotch 88 electrical tape).  Tedious process, kinda like wrapping your baseball bat handle, or for those from the great white north, like wrapping the blade and handle on your old wooden Sherwood Hockey Stick.....

Anyway, spent a lot of time accounting for all of the stuff I need to wire, and where that will land on the AAW harness.  Turns out, there are plenty of power feeds available, both directly from the battery, and also "key on hot" feeds.   All are fused.   An example is the picture below that shows a connector with a tag on it.  This is an auxiliary power connector that AAW provides under the dash.  In my case, I am going to use one of the power feeds for my power top.   It was intended for power windows or other accessory, and has a dedicated 30 amp fuse.  This will allow me to keep the wiring in the car, and eliminate the OEM fusible link/circuit breaker wiring harness that is fed from the starter solenoid under the hood.

Another example is that the harness has courtesy light feeds for the fastback "dome" lights.   I will use them to install new LED lights in my trunk, that will now work off of the door jamb switches.   Cool!

Once I get my firewall pad installed, I will put the fuse box and harness back in the car, and then install my Vintage Air unit.    Thank goodness that these '69 and '70 cars have a removable dash...!   I spent countless hours on my '68 laying on my back under the dash doing this...

 

 

 

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Oh, one item that is also very neat is the relay pack that you see in the bottom picture.  It allows you to run halogen headlights, and fog lights.  The kit also supports the 1969 dual headlight setup.   You can see my writing....

LB - Low Beam, HB - High Beam, FG - Fog (driving lights), HN - Horn, IG - Ignition.

The ignition relay is only used on 1970s. It is there to allow the use of the column mounted ignition switch that was used in 1970, versus the 1969 dash mounted switch.  There is a nice pre-assembled jumper wire kit that comes with the AAW package that plugs into the 1970 factory connector.  

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Installed my "Boom Mat" on the firewall this weekend.   This is a product that I get at the local NASCAR supplier. It is made by DEI  http://www.designengineering.com/

I have used this product before, and it is less expensive than some of the other, similar products. I am pretty happy with it.

I have also decided to use some of the AAW bulkhead connectors to go through the firewall instead of using the grommets.  Most of my wires will run in the fenderwells, so that will be an interesting challenge.   

 

 

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I think it was in another bag.  I finally opened up all the bags and laid out the instructions and the parts on a big table and segregated them.  Some of them were not where I expected.   

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Got my Vintage Air setup, decided to install the underdash stuff so I can judge the amount of room left for my wiring and stuff.   Really good instructions and first class hardware.    The pictures show the box sitting on the bench, the box installed under the dash, and then a view from the firewall side.

I also started my fuse and wire tabulation.  I do this so I can keep track of what fuses I intend to use for each item, and then will create a wire list to make sure I hook it up right...!  Pics of the fuse box, and then the start of my fuse/load list that I create in Excel.

Since the new fusebox has so many extra fuses, you can see how I am matching my new electrical boxes to the fuses.   

 

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