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69 Convertible Drip Rail

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after a gaggle of googling I've come to the conclusion that only the very wealthy, the very gifted, or the clinically insane own, work on or attempt restoration on 1969 Mustang Covertibles .... I assume that 99.9% of us fall into the latter catagory .... that being said ... are there any wealthy people willing to buy me a drip rail? or any gifted people willing to share the secret of fabricating one? or (and this is where I expect to really get some help) any of you who fall into the clinically insane catagory like myself have any idea where I can beg, borrow, steal, find, buy, magically produce said drip rail?  This isn't the only part I need ... it's just the only part I need right now ... lol ... any help would be appreciated ....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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They are not that hard to make. I have never made a whole one but I have made sections of one to replace rusted out portions of a friends 69 conv.

If you only need a section. Get the metal and bend it to shape in a vise, on a brake, or on the edge of the bench.

If it is an area where there is compound shape to the thing then you option is to make a hammer form and hammer the metal over the form to get the piece you want. Or you can cut the pieces out as flat parts and weld them together at the " bends" to form the compound part you need

 

So, what do you need and how much of it do you need?

 

Bob

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I have had to make pieces like this before .Get some poster paper and trace the rusted out pieces .Cut that out and transfer it to sheet metal .You may have to make it in three pieces ,front bottom and back ,and weld them in . That is a common rusted place for all converts. That piece is not available for the earlier years either ,even though they are making convert bodies .We have talked to Dynacorn about releasing that part as a seperate piece ,don't know if it will happen.

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Appreciate y'all taking time to reply, not sure how to reply to each individual, I'm not really social media savy ... I don't do Book Me or My Face in Space or whatever the heck it's called ... but I just wanted to say thanks for the advice and for comfirming that this piece is not available .... guess it's back to the workbench with a hammer, a box of bandages, and a bottle of pain killers .... I HATE metal work .. lol ... the fingers I don't cut .. I end up smashing with the hammer .... as far as other parts ... I've had the car over 35 years ... it was just time to give it some much needed attention .... the front is immaculate cowl boxes, firewall, floor pans, rockers, all solid .... Now if I could just cut the car off right behind the backseat and attach a new one I'd be in good shape ..... thanks again for the input and advice ... if I don't reply for a while it's only because I've hit to many damn finger to work the keyboard ....  

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I had to build drip rails for a 68 convertible from the corners all the way to the ends. I can tell you a few things that might help... the originals were 14 gauge metal.  That guage is hard to work with so I used 16 guage.  If you imagine the drip rail as a "U" shape then I cut the bottoms of "U" with the same curvature as my exterior metal.  Then I cut two pieces to go up the sides of the "U" then I just clamped all three pieces together and welded like crazy.

 

david

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Built my drip rail patches from metal laying around..both my corners were gone...Now new happy metal.. no more water in the trunk...

WOW    love the video.    Is this the coupe with the 427 in your signature? What tranny does it have it seems to snatch the gears really well.

Dave

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after a gaggle of googling I've come to the conclusion that only the very wealthy, the very gifted, or the clinically insane own, work on or attempt restoration on 1969 Mustang Covertibles .... I assume that 99.9% of us fall into the latter catagory .... that being said ... are there any wealthy people willing to buy me a drip rail? or any gifted people willing to share the secret of fabricating one? or (and this is where I expect to really get some help) any of you who fall into the clinically insane catagory like myself have any idea where I can beg, borrow, steal, find, buy, magically produce said drip rail?  This isn't the only part I need ... it's just the only part I need right now ... lol ... any help would be appreciated ....

 

Sea Dragon,

 

Good to see you are still working on your car.  Did the templates for the drip pans I sent you help?  It should be pretty easy to fabricate the drip rails.  The factory parts are in two pieces that are welded together and then filled with seam sealer.  If you create two "L" shaped parts then use a shrinker / stretcher to match the radius you can weld them together on the bottom and fill with seam sealer.

 

Here is a picture of the shrinker in action to create a corner:

MG_0118.jpg

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I'm with Brian..where is a drip rail on a vert?

 

 

I'm not familiar with drip rails on 69-70 convertibles. Are we refering to the convertible boot hockey stick moldings?

 

Or the pinch seam underneath the car?

 

I think they're referring to the metal channel under the back window on convertibles that diverts water out of the trunk when it drains down the top or back window.

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69NC,

 

     Brother my apologies for the late reply ... had some house flooding issues, some pyscho daughter issues, and general life issues to deal with the last few months ... (anyone know where I could hire a hit man ... lol) Yes the Templates you sent where absolutely invaluable!!  I would attach a picture if I knew how to do that ..... You don't happen to know if they make the piece that goes under the deck filler panel do you??  .... as you say I believe that to be more Mustang Unobtainium....

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Are you talking about the pans that are under the front left and right of the trunk lid spot welded from underneath ? Not sure what you're calling drip rails. I'm 70% through a total resto on a 70 convert and if I can take some pics or measurements for you I certainly will. regards...john

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John,

 

     Yes those are what I'm talking about ... NC69 sent me a template and I was able to manufacture a set, although it cost me a fortune in bandaids, iodine, and pain killers ... (I hate metal work) .... would you happen to know what the piece under the deck filler panel is called or if it's reproduced?

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John,

 

     Yes those are what I'm talking about ... NC69 sent me a template and I was able to manufacture a set, although it cost me a fortune in bandaids, iodine, and pain killers ... (I hate metal work) .... would you happen to know what the piece under the deck filler panel is called or if it's reproduced?

Not sure what it is called but the under piece is not available either .i had to modify the piece for a 67 coupe  to a 67 convert .The top piece is available ,at least for a 67-68 .

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Sea Dragon,

 

Good to see you are still working on your car.  Did the templates for the drip pans I sent you help?  It should be pretty easy to fabricate the drip rails.  The factory parts are in two pieces that are welded together and then filled with seam sealer.  If you create two "L" shaped parts then use a shrinker / stretcher to match the radius you can weld them together on the bottom and fill with seam sealer.

 

Here is a picture of the shrinker in action to create a corner:

MG_0118.jpg

I bought the Harbor Freight shrinker stretcher kit ,works great but buy the stand also ,mine will not stay in the vise when i have to use a lot of force bending .You can make all kinds of things with this tool.

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I bought the Harbor Freight shrinker stretcher kit ,works great but buy the stand also ,mine will not stay in the vise when i have to use a lot of force bending .You can make all kinds of things with this tool.

Yup got a shrinker and a stretcher .... I actually put the block portion of the shrinker in the vice right down to the metal guard and tightened the crap out of the vice .... I'm 6'3" 265lbs and I was pullling, pushing, cussing, straining, and it never moved once!! Initially I had only put the bolts in the bottom of the shrinker in the vice ... and it did move around then ....

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I'm in the last category, and have same issues..

 

true horror.

 

I blasted it, and rebuilt with small welding seams, and some sheet metal.

Flap-sanded, and primed. Will last for 50 more years.

The drip rail is only visible when the top is taken completely off. Function before beauty :)

post-38382-0-50032000-1424263939.jpg

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Sea, you crack me up with your sense of humor. I was once image posting challenged, but with help from this forum I no longer need therapy.

 

I was convinced to open a (free) Photo Bucket account. The PB account will save your pics when your computer dies. When you upload an image into your library, click on it. You will then have a screen like this:

 

 

Photobucket_Img_Posting_zps43e698cb.jpg

 

Highlight the IMG link and copy it. You can then click and paste it anywhere in your post you like. Preview the post if you like to see if the pic is there.

 

Good luck with car and posting pics. By the way, where do you call home?

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Photo bucket has been giving me headaches for the last couple of weeks but i load my images in the library then click on the image i want, when it opens  i right click in the image and click  copy and then click in the post window and press Ctrl and V at the same time ,the pic opens instantly. Only problem with Photo Bucket is if you delete a pic in photo bucket it will also delete the image in the forum.

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