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Crashed my Fastback - The rebuild thread

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I'm the kinda guy that thinks those holes are there for a reason, if not other than to let moisture out for the framerail to prevent rust, so I don't really want to close them. I'm thinking more on a mount like this one pictured below, but with the bushing in place obviously:




This is from a 1970 Mustang for sale at RK Motors Charlotte.

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Last week, we got the tunnel crossmember welded in. Got a friend of mine who's a professional welder and weld inspector to do the work for me, as I've never tried to weld anything. My car's been so solid that I have never had to do anything to it. Anyway, I did get to try my hand at MIG welding on some minor stuff here, and I thought it went very well.






Today, I've been mocking up the lower dash and console to see if it still fits with the raised floor. It looks like I will have a problem with the instrument pod. In the picture below, everything seems to fit, but when we installed the transmission, we saw that the shifter was not centered in the console, so everything had to be pushed farther in. This is with the lower dash adjusted as high as it will go.




I didn't bring my dashpad, but I remembered that the old dashpad from the '70 Mach 1 in the background has been lying outside the workshop for years, so I ran out, cleaned it for dirt and maggots and whatnot and put it on. Everything fits. I was afraid it would get too high.



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I was staring at the pics you posted, and I thought it was a smart idea running the bed liner all of the way to the bottom of the rocker.  We usually just run it to the pinch weld, but it made me think how bad the bottom of the rockers get road blasted.  I'll have to start doing that.  Thanks. 

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Guys, you are showing poor "netiquette", and I have asked an moderator to delete posts #354, 355, 356, 358 and 359. I want to have my build thread dedicated to my project, as I'm sure you want with your repective build threads. Not trying to be an ass here, hope you understand.


Edit: All sorted out by an admin. Not referring to the thread posts that have those numbers today.

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The tangential discussion has been moved to it's own thread, feel free to pursue it here:




Continue to follow FVike's excellent fastback rebuild here. Carry on!

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Decided to go with the rear mount that followed with the kit from American Powertrain. It had  the most room for exhaust pipes. 








The bracket came a little farther back in the car than I originally thought, so the crush sleeves didn't interfere with the frame openings.




Good room for exhaust.




Put the suspension back on, to move the car. Very happy with the way those control arms turned out.




Borrowed the wheels from my friends '70 Mustang in order to move the car.

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The last post was October 13th. My kid started in kindergarden, and I've been ill and sick ever since, LOL. So not so much progress on the car until the last two weeks.



After measuring ant testing A LOT to get the console with gauge pods to clear the 1.57" higher new transmission tunnel, I decided to cut out the whole length of the concole and start raising it from the back.



So, this is the angle it will get. Currently welding up the rest of the tunnel, because the car is going to paint next week...

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'cause...BAM!!! We got color!



















Fenders, light housings, doors, trunk lid, cowl and lower front valance has been painted. 

The color is very close to the color the car had, but we couldn't find a match, the closest was from SEAT (A spanish car manufacturer - the cheapest brand in the VW hierarchy) and is called Rojo Delhi Effect. In ordinary light they're the same, but the new color pops a little more red in sun light.

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Thanks guys. I'm real pleased with the color. It's deep and "full".. changes a lot with light conditions. I think it will look tremendous in sun light.

Anyway, the transmission tunnel and hump is now fully welded, and the inside of the car is primed, sealed and painted. It's just color, no clear on it. I'm not overly worried about the finish inside the car. It's gonna be Dynamated anyway. Just wanted color there. Pictures below.











Tech tip: My painter said it's important to put the sealer on after primer, NOT before, or else it will rust if the seal is not tight or cracks. He sees it every day on new cars. Rust on bare metal under the sealer.

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Yeah, I'm not sure yet about the trunk. I think I'll dynamat it too, get some carpet of some kind. not sure yet.


Anyway, all small parts and the hood has now been painted.







Blackout has to wait unthil the car is assembled and the stencil is in place.


Also, before the car is painted, flush fitting the rear bumper has to be done. Top side is almost done, but there's still work to be done on it towards the valence.







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