BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted February 6, 2010 (edited) Table of Contents provided by Mach1Driver 3M Rust Fighter, door seam, pg28 alternator, DeadNutsOn, pg17 angle grinder, pg7 backspace, pg41 backup LED, pg31 balancing tires, pg15, 41 bellhousing/spacer plate, pg15 blocking, pg5 brake lines and flaring, pg22 buffing trim, pg28 buffing, pg37 calendar cover picture, pg51 caliper kit, CSRP, pg7 CalTrac pg6, 8, 45, 47 cam specs, pg6, 16 cam, pg2 car dolly, pg5 car show, pg44 carpet, pg25 cart, car, pg3, 5 cleaner/zinc, lower dash, pg10 clock cluster, pg34 clock, quartz, pg30 clutch, pg47 compressor size, pg 37 console/gauges, pg12 cowl, pg35 Dan & Dad, pg44 dash, pg11 deadeners/sealers, trunk, pg13 DFLP and 32586, pg30 door weights, loaded, pg5 drag tuning, pg45 dragstrip, pg45 drive line angles, pg1, 31 driveshaft loop, pg25 driveshaft, pg21 Dynaliner, pg9 Dynamat Extreme, pg9 Dynamat usage, pg 36 dyno testing, pg6 dyno, pg14 emblems, pg12 engine assembly pics, pg9 engine costs, pg7 engine crossmember, pg1 engine final, pg14 engine specs, pg6 engine update, pg8, 10, 11, 12 engine wire harness, pg17 engine, 1st run, pg21 engine, 418, pg8 engine, pg7 engine/trans assembly, pg16 engine/trans install, pg20 engine/trans, how to install, pg16 epoxy primer, pg39 Evapo-Rust, pg9 exhaust pics, 3”, pg30 exhaust, pg22, 24, 29, 32, 33 fan blade, pg1 fastener kits, pg44 filler neck fit, pg20 fire extinguisher positions, pg43 first car, pg10 flashers, pg30 flocking, pg12 floor support crossmember, pg8 flywheel/clutch, pg46 fold down seat, pg28 fold down seat, pg29, 32 FPA header problems, pg24 front fender extensions, pg5 fuel filler mod, pg 21 fuel filter, pg9 fuel gauge sender, pg9 fuel line mod, pg25 fuel line, pg9, 17 fuel system update, pg34 fuse terminals, pg30 gauge light tuning, pg 31 glass install, pg31 glass, pg26, 28 gotchas, pg20 guide coat, pg5, 7 gun bluing, pg6 header finish, pg5 headers, pg1 headlight/fender extensions, pg33 headliner, pg24 heads, pg6 heater box repair/paint, pg10 heater control bezel repair, pg11 height, pg43 hood paint wax test, pg38 hood trim, pg41-43 instrument regulator, pg22 Instrument Specialties, pg29 insulation, back area, pg26 insulation, pg25 interior quarter panels, pg12, 38 leaf spring addition, pg 46 leaf spring perches, pg 33 LEDs, dash, pg24, 25, 30, 32 license plates, pg24 line lock/rev limiter, pg12, 22 lug centric rims, pg15 Mastercool flaring tool set, pg23 Media blasted, car, pg1 milling intake manifold, pg13 mono-leaf springs, pg47 motor mount, pg47 mufflers, pg6 Mustang emblems, pg11 oil pan clearance, pg20 oil pan install, pg23 oil pan mod, pg23 overflow can, pg27, 28 paint booth filter, pg17 paint booth ventilation, pg13 paint booth venting, pg37 paint booth, pg5 paint colors, misc. parts, pg21 Paint Defender, pg45 paint guns, pg37 paint stripper, pg9 paint, A-pillar trim, pg25 paint, A-pillars, pg25 paint, anti-sway bar, pg6 paint, battery tray, pg6 paint, body mount locations, pg8 paint, body primer, pg5 paint, body, pg17, 18 paint, calipers, pg7 paint, Caltrac bars, pg6 paint, coil springs, pg6 paint, color test, pg3 paint, console, pg12 paint, dash outer and inner caps, pg11 paint, dash parts, pg9 paint, dash, pg10, 30 paint, doors/hood, pg14 paint, driveshaft, pg23 paint, EM brake, pg3 paint, engine and parts, pg10 paint, engine bay, pg8, 18, 19 paint, engine enamel, pg3 paint, engine, pg6, 15 paint, fan blade, pg3 paint, fiberglass panels, pg17 paint, fold down seat, pg29 paint, hood, MTF, pg41 paint, hood, pg34, 38 paint, jack, pg17 paint, leaf springs, pg6 paint, lower control arms, pg8 paint, misc. small parts, pg8 paint, outer dash trim, pg21 paint, pedal assembly, pg4, 5 paint, pinchweld, pg19 paint, radiator, pg8 paint, rear end, pg4, 21 paint, scattershield, pg7 paint, seat frame, pg17 paint, seat tracks, pg11 paint, shaker ribs, pg4 paint, shaker, pg3, 4 paint, spring perches, pg3 paint, spring stripes, pg7 paint, steering box, pg11 paint, steering column lower cover, pg21 paint, steering column wire cover, pg21 paint, steering column, pg10 paint, steering wheel trim, pg11 paint, stone deflector, base and clear, pg12 paint, strut rods, pg10 paint, trunk, pg13 paint, undercarriage, pg8, 35 paint, upper control arms, pg6 paint, wiper motor, pg9 panel gaps, pg1, 4 Parkerizing, pg4 phenolic spacer test, pg35 phosphate and oil (P&O} durability test, pg9 phosphate finish, pg4, 5 pressure plate, pg16 primer, K36, pg7 primer/blocking final, pg14 Quiet Ride Solutions, pg25 radio conversion, pg44 rear end, pg4 rear gears, pg2 rear lights, pg24 rear springs, pg6 red oxide, pg8 remetalized clock cluster, pg 29 residual valve, pg22 Rimblow Buddy cost, pg28 Rimblow/line lock, pg11 Rimblow Buddy, pg11 rubbing compound and polish, pg37, 38 rust remover, chemical, pg9 sail panels, pg26 sealer, inside cabin, pg9 seam sealer, pg35 seat belts, pg36 seat fabric, pg13 seats, pg34, 35 shaker fit, pg38 shaker trim fit, pg44 shaker, pg2, 3 sheetmetal replacement, pg1 sheetmetal thickness, pg37 shock extensions, pg47 shock tower reinforcement, pg22, 48 shocks, pg45 side scoop caulk, pg38 sleeper engine bay, pg20 Slide On Application Gel, pg42 sound deadener SF, pg9 sound deadener, inside cabin, pg9 sound deadener, pg26, 35 sound deadener, rear wheelwells, pg8 sound deadener, roof, pg8, 9 sound deadeners/sealers, trunk, pg25 sound deadening on quarters, pg38 sound test, pg37 space saver spare tire, pg43 spark plug looms, pg49 Spectrum Second Skin, pg13 splash shields, pg26 spray gun, pg12 Ssnake Oyl, pg36 stabilizer bar fitment, pg23 stance, pg26 steering impression, pg40 stripes, pg42, 43 subframe connectors, pg1 suspension install, pg19 tach mount, pg 22 tail light bulbs, pg24, 30 TFS hi port heads, pg3 TIG, pg36, 37 timing mod, pg24 tools, sheetmetal forming, pg7 trailer tie downs, pg39 trap door, pg28 trunk catch, pg23 trunk finished, pg25 trunk, pg32 upper control arms, pg6 valve covers, pg6, 17 venting, fuel tank, pg49 video, 1st time on street, pg39 video, drag, pg46 video, drive, pg40 video, driving, pg32 video, in driveway, pg31 video, rear suspension, pg46 water pump, pg9 water shield, pg38 Weatherpak connector, pg23 weight, pg47 wheel/tire combo, pg47 work table, pg37 z-bar, pg1 z-bar rework, pg23 zinc phosphate, hood hinges, pg7 zinc phosphate, hood latch, pg7 i had posted this on another forum (non-mustang) a few weeks ago and it seemed only appropriate that it should really exist on a 69 mustang forum... here is a summary of what has been completed over the course of the last 1.5 years.... i had just finished making the rotisserie and moved the car off the temporary dolly. i was pretty nervous the first time i flipped this car around! after a lot of structural metal work, i media blasted the car made my own set of subframe connectors. nothing on the market was what i wanted. replaced more sheetmetal. both sides, outer wheelhouses, trunk floors, quarter panels, not to mention all the patch panels... finished fitting the doors, trunk lid, quarter extensions, valance. then glazing, sealing and fill priming... i've been working on mocking up the engine, transmission, cooling, etc. TFS high ports, scattershield and a victor junior have created a challenge. finally finished up the clutch linkage, modifying the headers (had to completely relocate two tubes. i've sliced up the shaker and have finally have a legitimate plan to fit it under the hood and retain the vacuum system and external appearance. it's about 1/2" high in the picture. Edited August 23, 2018 by BuckeyeDemon adding TOC 8 premix, JamesTodo, stephanienl69 and 5 others reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted February 6, 2010 (edited) i had posted this on another forum (non-mustang) a few weeks ago and it seemed only appropriate that it should really exist on a 69 mustang forum... here is a summary of what has been completed over the course of the last 1.5 years.... i had just finished making the rotisserie and moved the car off the temporary dolly. i was pretty nervous the first time i flipped this car around! after a lot of structural metal work, i media blasted the car made my own set of subframe connectors. nothing on the market was what i wanted. replaced more sheetmetal. both sides, outer wheelhouses, trunk floors, quarter panels, not to mention all the patch panels... finished fitting the doors, trunk lid, quarter extensions, valance. then glazing, sealing and fill priming... i've been working on mocking up the engine, transmission, cooling, etc. TFS high ports, scattershield and a victor junior have created a challenge. finally finished up the clutch linkage, modifying the headers (had to completely relocate two tubes. i've sliced up the shaker and have finally have a legitimate plan to fit it under the hood and retain the vacuum system and external appearance. it's about 1/2" high in the picture. Edited March 13, 2010 by BuckeyeDemon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted February 6, 2010 (edited) and just to add a few more pics during the process.... previous owner sliced out the transmission tunnel and crossmember, to probably gain access to the shifter. they used pop rivets to hold metal in place. finished shaping, welding and grinding. i had to fabricate the transmission crossmember not shown in this photo cutout the front crossmember, lower part of the radiator support, inner front rail and strut rod bracket and battery inner apron. replaced inner front frame rail. this piece started life as a reproduction rail. unfortunately the shape was wrong, the holes were in the wrong location, etc. i had to reshape it, fix the ends to make it look like the original, relocate the holes and make the two divots in the edge. the toe board, upper and lower torque box as well as the front floor support and frame rail were in bad condition. cutout the cancer in the frame rail. the firewall to floor was the only metal hold the front end together on that side. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh270/buckeyedemon/Forum%20Photos/IMG_3022.jpg made patches to the front frame rail and again heavily modified a repop front floor support to weld in. welded in a new toe board after welding in the torque boxes and repair of the inner rocker and apron. this repop piece was for a 67/68 mustang i had to make the contours work. winter was approaching and enough structural metal was replaced to warrant placement on the rotisserie for media blasting. i masked off a small area so i could later paint match the color. once the rust, paint and grime is gone, its starts to look a whole lot better... did the inside as well. media blasting the car was the worst three days of my life. but worth it. this was just some of the fabrication involved in making the subframe connectors. i had to relocate drain holes, recontour ribbing and move brackets as part of the prep. these are made from 1/8" steel. a lot of plug welds tie these things to the floorplans. i counted over 200 plug welds involved in replacing one rear quarter. Edited March 13, 2010 by BuckeyeDemon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted February 6, 2010 (edited) and another... drivers side inner quarter area. i had to fabricate and replace the end of the outer rocker, fabricate two different inner wheel house patches, patch the trunk drop off and weld in the outer wheel house. the repop outer wheel house just didn't want to fit right without a lot of massaging. i stripped the metal, including the inner side of the quarter pain and sprayed epoxy throughout. just a picture of the car back up on the rotisserie after quarter replacement to finish the undercarriage detailing. if you've never seen a car upside down here you go. i've sanded every inch of this car inside and out to remove any imperfections and pitting from rust. i had no finger nails for weeks. the door gap was inconsistent and a little large for my liking. i weld in 1/8 rod to the door edge (welded on both sides) then ground flat. the edge is ground to the contour desired. same thing to the trunk lid. i litterally had to jump up and down on this thing to get it close to matching the contour of the rear window crossmember. after grinding flat had to grind and weld/grind to many locations on the lid. these lids never fit right even from the factory. Edited March 13, 2010 by BuckeyeDemon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
468stang 11 Report post Posted February 6, 2010 Looking good, your frame connectors are mint. Did you post a pic of them a while back? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jkskinsfan 19 Report post Posted February 6, 2010 Awesome job, BuckeyeDemon. I am so envious. Keep the pictures coming. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angel 24 Report post Posted February 6, 2010 Those subframe connectors are really something to be proud of. Very clean. Looks like it came that way from the factory. Great job. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted February 7, 2010 thanks for posting the pics, looking good! I'll be there soon enough! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted February 7, 2010 Deamon, I have the same problem with my New trunk lid, it fits really nice on the outaides but in the middle its higher than the rear window X-Member. What the secret...Really jump up and down on it? LOL I dont want to have to add filler to the X-Member to make it match the trunk, but was considering it. Also where did you get the 1/8" rod that you welded to the doors and trunk Lid....This is something I would like to do also, as my door gaps are a littler larger than I like, but they are within spec...I use a Paint stiring stick, which I have found to be just about the right size for gaps, but I want this car to be a bit tighter. You got yours looking GREAT. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted February 7, 2010 (edited) What do you think about weldng the rear valance to the quarters on both sides, and filling it in to make it seamless in that area? That is one area I have always seen a gap in that I think needs to be corrected, Even the expensive Stangs have the valance wither too fare in or too far out, or the gap is huge. Also did you take the body of your car down to bare metal? If so what do you find is the Fastest and easiest way to get it down with out having scratches that are so deep in the metal that a good high build primer wont fill them. I have considered using a good stainless bristle Cup brush which seems to knock paing and bondo of with ease. Also, are you migging or tigging those rods into the doors and trunk lid ? What ever your doign looks great, I see the picture of the trunk where you have the rod welded on and then a completed picture. What im wondering is did you keep tacking the rod until you had a complete bead down the entire length of the lid, or did you just grind the welds down and put filler in it. Mike Edited February 7, 2010 by MikeStang Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmarks 20 Report post Posted February 7, 2010 Awesome work. Great job on the subframe connectors. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unfrozen1969 11 Report post Posted February 7, 2010 Very very impressive, I am amazed at how clean the car looks, you have a lot of skill and talent, and it shows in the work you are doing. Great photos, and thanks for showing us your progress, you have set the bar really high, keeps the photos coming.. Bill from Canada Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted February 7, 2010 (edited) thanks for the comments on the subframe connectors. that was a labor intensive process, but indeed wanted something that looked like what the factory would have designed. trunk lid. yep, mine was sticking up in the middle. i did litteraly put the lid on the floor and jump up and down on the side to flex it flat. because the lid didn't have the skin welded, it flexed quite easily. i still had to do a lot of hammer and dollie work to the edge to get it true. the lid was so flimsy that it would loose it's shape when i would open and shut it. after welding it was much more solid. i also tack glued a new piece of weatherstrip in to make sure the fit was right with the weatherstrip. i didn't want any surprises after paint. i buy 1/8 flux coated arc weld rod. i chip off the flux (then media blast or wire wheel to get the remaining residue off). i tack weld the rod down the edge. i completely weld both sides using small tacks, cooling after each tack with compressed air or a damp cloth. i grind the the surfaces flat. i skim coat the panels when all the metal work is complete. i do have to grind the edges down because in many causes the 1/8 rod is too much. i use a d/a to get a slight radius when it's done. Edited March 13, 2010 by BuckeyeDemon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted February 7, 2010 (edited) rear valance. i'm sure you could weld it solid. to much of a deviation from stock on the exterior for me. i spent a couple hours on the rear valance to get the fit right. with all the metal that was replaced, i can't necessarily say the valance was bad. here is the fit after some work. Edited March 13, 2010 by BuckeyeDemon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69boss408 11 Report post Posted February 7, 2010 There has got to be some money to be made on those frame connectors they are perfect.Need to send a pic to a subframe maker and get more made I'd love a set .I am far from being a welder my welds take alot of grinding haha. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted February 7, 2010 Your rear valance fits beautifully compared to my remplacement valance, its got almost a half inch gap at the top LOL, part of the reason I want it all welded into one. Your cars loooking GREAT Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
klevor 10 Report post Posted February 9, 2010 Great work and car. I wish I was that talented. Keep it going. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted February 9, 2010 (edited) the last few months have been spent on fitting some of the driveline. as mentioned this is a 351W car with TFS high port heads. The one complaint about these heads is the raised exhaust ports (3/4"). I have a set FPA 1 3/4" stepped long tubes. i expected clearance problems, so i ordered them uncoated. they have excellent clearance to the chassis. however one tube was hitting the oil pan both on the mounting flange and the side of the pan. this was NOT because of the raised port heads. one of the tubes just really seemed to go where it shouldn't have. i will count this as the one strike on the FPA's. because of the shaker and a victor Jr. intake that sits considerably higher, i decided to drop the motor using ron morris drop mounts. i didn't want to do this because of the potential dominoe effect, but i'm trying to squeeze every 1/10" i can get. i also decided now was the time to convert to a 5-speed. i spent several days reading trying to determine how much modification would be required. i've read many posts concerning driveline angles, many of which i don't necessarily agree with. this is a TKO 600. the bellhousing is for the early toploaders. i used the spacer plate because of the longer input shaft. i have a little concern about this spacer because it seems to fit a little sloppy. if i were to do it again, i would have ordered a shortened input shaft version. that would have shifted the trannsmission forward 0.675". This would have reduced the amount cutout of the floor support and reduced the needed offset of the crossmember. i'm not a fan of the aftermarket swap crossmembers. i wanted the liberty to make something similar to a stock piece while allowing me to position it where i wanted. finished crossmember. it has an offset of 1.5" and is made from 10 gauge steel. this stupid thing took me two days to build! here is the final fit. FPA's tuck under the car nicely here is one of the trouble spots. i had to cutout the support. i will box the support in once the car is back on the rotisserie for the final time prior to getting topcoated. as mentioned early, i could have cut 5/8" less if i would have used the short input shaft version. there is probably 5/8" to 3/4" of clearance here. the tight spot exists about 10" forward. there is currently about 1/8" of space right where the floor pan meets the firewall (overlap area). I'm going to have to cut a slit, hammer it out a little and then reweld to get about 1/4" of clearance. after everything was bolted down in the final config (including engine drop mounts), the driveline angle for reference is around 2.75-3 degrees. before the mods i recorded a measurement of 2.5". this mod has added about 0.25-0.5 degrees. i'm showing the measurement on the carb plate of the intake. the victor jr. carb plate is level (not angled like most other intakes). this measurement was to take a before and after. this does not represent the actual driveline angle for two reasons: 1. the car is not level (rockers measure about 0.5 degrees. 2. there can be error in the degree meter (mine was off 3 degrees, so i had to open it and shift the paper). the key angles are driveline to driveshaft, driveshaft to pinion and driveline to pinion difference. i have no idea what angle my driveshaft is. thus another reason why i tried to minimize the added angle. generally i read that you want less than 3 degrees of driveline to driveshaft angle (not engine angle with no reference). another reason was the shaker. dropping the tailshaft was going to make it even more difficult to fit the shaker under the hood. i read many times about people who say there fan is sticking up in the air at a severe angle because of this swap. not the case here. it's tough to see any angle for the fan to radiator. i think dropping the engine 0.5" made a huge difference. this is a Griffin radiator. it was supposed to fit in original saddle type mounts. it does sort of. it is a little thicker, so i had to grind less than 1/8" from the rubber isolators at the top. in addition it must be overal thicker. i had to re fabricate part of the lower mounts (make them wider and move them towards the motor 1/2") and add about 1/2" to the top saddle support so that it wasn't touching the radiator support. in addition, because of the dropped engine, the fan was almost hitting the shroud at the bottom. i trimmed about 1/4" from the edge of the fan blades to achieve about 1/2" of clearance. more of the dominoe effect. the engine crossmember had to be notched. because of the 1/2" drop and the larger oil pan. i'm also having a little clearance issue with this Canton 7-qt pan and the steering center link. it is hitting the one side of the pan about 1/4". i'm hoping that once everything is bolted up (steering) that it won't be a problem. if it is, i have a plan. with two of the exhaust tubes completely relocated already and the engine moved around, the z-bar setup was having big problems. first i converted everything to heim joints. this are simply 1/2" female threaded, teflon coated, stainless heim joints. i cut and threaded a 1/2" rod (had to put a slight bend in it). the studs that the heim joints mount to are simply 1/2" grade 8 bolts with the heads turned down to give them a cleaner look. you can see here that the z-bar no longer attached to the block, but a mount on the backside of the bellhousing. i also had to make a new bracket that mounts to the frame rail. i completely cut the bottom arm off the z-bar and made my own. i added a little rod to strengthen it for good measure. also added a grease fitting. because the shifter hole isn't centered, i ordered a low profile shifter from Modern Driveline. I asked for a 1" left offset, so they built one up for me. (fyi, he was willing to make any offset combination i wanted). the low profile shifter allowed me not to have to cut anything out of the shifter opening. of course, i ended up cutting the stub off the shifter. i made a plate and threaded it so i could mount a 69 shift handle. finishing up the shaker base pan is the last item and everything will be finished mocking up. Edited March 13, 2010 by BuckeyeDemon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maxum96 32 Report post Posted February 9, 2010 Your build is looking good. Your fabrication looks really good. I see you notched your engine crossmember just like I did mine. I only had to notch mine on the left side. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted February 12, 2010 Holy smokes, that is why I wont have a standard car LOL Way too much work to get that thing in there...plus my skills are not near as good as yours LOL. Looking great Demon. You can come do my car when your done with yours :P Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted February 12, 2010 great build!!!!! i too have read so much on angles etc ... that i know ill be laying under the car for hours before that bolt/weld goes in.. lol:tongue_smilie: 1 diegoZzisy reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted February 12, 2010 (edited) i personally HATE automatics! the extra labor was worth it too me! Edited March 13, 2010 by BuckeyeDemon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jkskinsfan 19 Report post Posted February 13, 2010 I just noticed the car in your Sig sitting on the BLOCKS and the hair on the back of my neck stood up. Many years ago when I was a Teenager, I had one of my cars up on blocks. One of them cracked and the car came down. Lucky for me, I wasn't under it at the time. Be careful around a car that's up on blocks like that. It could be very dangerous situation. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maxum96 32 Report post Posted February 13, 2010 great build!!!!! i too have read so much on angles etc ... that i know ill be laying under the car for hours before that bolt/weld goes in.. lol:tongue_smilie: That's a familiar story! I'm still working on my angles just perfect. . I'm picking up a driveshaft vibration at higher speeds. I think I might need to have my driveshaft checked even though it's brand new. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted February 13, 2010 nice work! It looks like you are a good welder too. Might I ask what you do for a living? Maybe I missed it but you didnt raise the tunnel? And are you doing the driveshaft and pinion angle next? I am considering a short input shaft TKO500 for my build. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
