Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted July 7, 2006 Had the mobile media blasters in today, 7/6/2006, to clean up the front clip and inside the trunk. Nice job and saved hours and hours of stripping for me. Also have my upper arms complete with roller perches as well. Bad news is I am now sure I have to replace the passenger side shock tower and front apron now. Although it appears solid it just isn't right and will come out. The apron is brazed in as well so I guess I'll figure out how to melt out a panel. For more info check out the update page: http://www.protowrxs.com/Nolen/Stang/Rebuild/2006-07-06.asp -Stephen 3 AndrewPaype, Xde4hewkew and unlinihada reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bswor 71 Report post Posted July 7, 2006 Wow i cant believe they actually come to your house to blast it. Nothing like that is available around my neck of the woods. I'm sorry to see the shock tower needs to be replaced as well as the apron. Great documentation on your website by the way, keep us updated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Carnivore 0 Report post Posted July 7, 2006 Badass.. ah, clean metal is so nice... can I ask what that costed? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted July 7, 2006 Badass.. ah, clean metal is so nice... can I ask what that costed? $90 per hour quoted - Total was $200 but they worked over 2.5 hours. Cool watching it happen. As noted that included the whole front clip, inside trunk, pair of headers, pair of 289 Hipo heads, valve covers, and upper/lower EFI intake. They stayed busy the whole time and it's a "dirty job" for sure. It took me three hours to try to strip about a 2' x 2' area and my wrists were killing me the day after. Well worth it. He looked at my hood and said it would be pretty easy so I hope to get hood/fenders done later. Great documentation on your website by the way, keep us updated. Thanks and will do. Guess I'll figure out how to replace a tower. -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted July 17, 2006 Bump... Just a bump update. Have the problem shock tower now removed and waiting for the replacement parts. Also have the spindles and brakes ready to roll but without a front end there's nothing to do with them. :sad: I did pretty much finish up the drivers side outside by seam sealing and welding in the outside brace on the reinforcement kit. I modified the brace slightly to provide the ability to keep junk from building up underneath it. Plus I think it looks better as well. Check out the full update here: http://www.protowrxs.com/nolen/Stang/Rebuild/2006-07-16.asp -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted July 17, 2006 looking good Steve. i'm sure glad i didn't have to go through that ordeal. mine had a small crack but were able to weld it up and then we plated it for strength. when/if i sell mine and i get another 69/70 cougar i won't have to worry about the old cracked shock tower bit since all of the cougars got the "bigblock" shock towers, even the measly little 351 2v cars. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted July 17, 2006 ...i won't have to worry about the old cracked shock tower bit since all of the cougars got the "bigblock" shock towers, even the measly little 351 2v cars. Really? I didn't know that.. interesting. I have an old friend that still has his 69 Cougar. Was his first car as well. I had a '67 XR7 car that I brought back from the grave back then. It was an original 390 / 4 speed car but was just a rolling chassis (well, almost rolling.. no wheels) when I bought it and put my old 351w out of my Mustang it in. Was a daily driver for several years. Another one of those "I wish I didn't get rid of that car" stories.. -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted July 18, 2006 not sure if the 67/68 cougs had the BB towers or not but the 69/70 did for sure. my old 70 was originally a 351c 2v and it had them. i guess it was because the cougar was a slightly bigger and heavier, not to mention more expensive, and the smallest engine offered for 69/70 was the 351 2v, other then the boss 302 so they decided it was better to use the BB shock towers to make the chassis more stable. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwcstang 201 Report post Posted July 18, 2006 good job man this should be a good reference when i take my towers off. for the re-enforcement kit did it come with any instructions templates like where to put them at?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted July 18, 2006 good job man this should be a good reference when i take my towers off. for the re-enforcement kit did it come with any instructions templates like where to put them at?? Thanks.. They come labeled as to what is up, front, etc. as well as a bad Xerox copy of this: http://www.pro-motorsports.com/?page=article_102 - It was better to print out that story than trying to see the pics they included. They look more confusing laying there all together in pieces. Once you separate them out and test fit it makes more sense. Really though it is very straight forward to install. Only some slight twisting of the "L" brackets to get them to match up with the wrap arounds and a little grinding here and there to get the best fit to your tower. There are some close ups of the drivers side here before any grinding. I still haven't gotten welding down to an art form.. lol http://www.protowrxs.com/Nolen/Stang/Rebuild/2006-06-06.asp -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwcstang 201 Report post Posted July 18, 2006 yeah i got some welding experience, but im still learning. i just grab a few pieces of old metal and weld em up to see if i got right or what i need to improve. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted July 20, 2006 Bump again... Got the shock towers and apron in today (7/19). I have to say I am impressed with MustangsPlus. Ordered the parts last Weds and arrived this Weds, well boxed and packed. Anyhow.. unless I am missing something (which is very likely) this isn't going to be near as bad as I had thought it would be. With the rear apron staying in the outer shock cover holes line up and hold things in place and with the export brace I can get the tower planted. Just a bit of trimming to get it to drop in the front a bit and it *should* be ready to tack in. I've been advised by Leonard Compton (http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=1365) to mock up fenders and check hood fitting to make SURE there is enough adjustment prior to final welding so that may take some time. Sure feels better not having 1/2 the frontend missing though. -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bswor 71 Report post Posted July 20, 2006 Your the man, i wish i had the nerve to attempt something like that. But luckily i dont. Good luck man, glad to see it coming together again. This gives me some inspiration to tackle a few things on mine. Keep us updated! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted July 20, 2006 Bump again... Got the shock towers and apron in today (7/19). I have to say I am impressed with MustangsPlus. Ordered the parts last Weds and arrived this Weds, well boxed and packed. Anyhow.. unless I am missing something (which is very likely) this isn't going to be near as bad as I had thought it would be. With the rear apron staying in the outer shock cover holes line up and hold things in place and with the export brace I can get the tower planted. Just a bit of trimming to get it to drop in the front a bit and it *should* be ready to tack in. I've been advised by Leonard Compton (http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=1365) to mock up fenders and check hood fitting to make SURE there is enough adjustment prior to final welding so that may take some time. Sure feels better not having 1/2 the frontend missing though. -Stephen yeah i would definietly mock everything up. i would also take a lot of measurements diagonally between the firewall and rad support at the corners as well as horizontal and parrallel measurements everywhere you can. you don't want to get it all put together and then realize something is out of whack. i'd also recommend mocking up the suspension and wheels/tires and make sure everything looks good there as well, although i'd wait until you have a few good tack welds to hold up all the weight. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted July 21, 2006 Thanks for the encouragement. I don't really think I had much choice but once I dug into it I feel much better. I took several measurements prior to pulling out the old and feel pretty good about getting everything located. The new parts really fit well and appear to be good quality so I'm ready to give it a try. Hope to work on it this weekend if the garage AC will cool it down enough. It's been 105+ here every day lately.. supposed to be a 'cold front' moving through Friday and drop us to the 90's.. oh boy... -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted July 25, 2006 Bump - Tower back in - fender test fit - Ready for final seam welding Got it all back together tonight... nice to have a solid front end again.. :) Things went back pretty easy. Lots of in and out to test fit, measure, document, and double check but I think it's better than the original repair work for sure. I pulled a fender out of storage and mocked it up and I can get all the holes to line up. Also checked the measurements for suspension mounting points, checked squaring, and more and feel confident it will work just fine Since the frame rail was in excellent condition I had good references for re-mounting even after etching primer was applied. The worst part was grinding off all the brazing from the replacement apron a shop did in the late 70's. I had to get it all off since it would mess with any welds. I still have to final seam weld and weld in the re-inforcement kit but am quite happy with the results. I opened up the hole on the right side in front of the battery since I plan on putting the mass air sensor and K&N filter there and wanted a fresh air opening for it. I can't remember what is in front of that hole but I think the inner headlight is for sure. Might have to duct up something to move the air in later. More here: http://www.protowrxs.com/nolen/Stang/Rebuild/2006-07-24.asp Edit: Fixed link Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bswor 71 Report post Posted July 25, 2006 Ahh i love to see progress and i'm starting to get jealous. Looks like i'll have to make some time to get something done on mine just to keep up. Your page to more pics and information is not working :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted July 25, 2006 Lots of in and out to test fit, measure, document, and double check but I think it's better than the original...for sure ummm...yeah...i can't resist... that's what you say but what did she think about it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted July 25, 2006 Looks like i'll have to make some time to get something done on mine just to keep up. Well it does feel better to see progress. Next is final smoothing, some seam sealing and then undercoating the outside and painting the inside and I'm ready to drop in the suspension and actually start putting it back together up front at least. ummm...yeah...i can't resist... that's what you say but what did she think about it? Hehe... she was very happy on both accounts... at least that is what she SAID :huh: Also fixed the link up above as here: http://www.protowrxs.com/nolen/Stang/Rebuild/2006-07-24.asp -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted July 30, 2006 Update 7/30/2006 Got a few more things done this week/weekend. I finished welding the passenger side tower and battery apron in and smoothed the filled holes. Also primed the engine bay and fixed a missing hood hinge capture nut. I undercoated both sides of the front fender wells and primed/painted the inner firewall area. I pulled the pedals out of storage and plan on working out how the automatic to manual conversion is going to work. More info here: http://www.protowrxs.com/Nolen/Stang/Rebuild/2006-07-30.asp Oh.. and I caught my pants on fire. Obviously I'm a little dangerous around the welder and grinder. -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
R4K 10 Report post Posted July 31, 2006 Liar, liar!!! :001_tt2: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted August 10, 2006 Bump again...<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p> <o:p></o:p> A little more progress made. Dropped in the front suspension for a test fit to see how things were going to look/work. Biggest issue appears to be getting nuts on the roller perches even with the dents made in the race.<o:p></o:p> <o:p></o:p> Purchased a power brake booster, master cylinder and some brake line since I'm ready to get front brake lines setup. It needs painted and detailed but is nice to have a new one. <o:p></o:p> Cleaned up the clutch/brake pedals and mount. Waiting for roller bearings to arrive to upgrade the clutch pedal.<o:p></o:p> <o:p></o:p> I also bought some Moog inner and outer tie rod ends. <o:p></o:p> <o:p>More detail and pics here: </o:p> http://www.protowrxs.com/Nolen/Stang/Rebuild/2006-08-10.asp -Stephen<o:p></o:p> <o:p></o:p> <o:p></o:p> Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted August 14, 2006 Re-Bump.. Not sure if anyone wants to know but here is the install of the roller clutch bearings I did this weekend. Very easy to do with the pedal assembly out of the car. Just removed the material around the bushing, popped it out, cleaned up the area around the hole and installed the new race, washer and clip. I also installed an improvised safety start switch. The switch will have to drive a relay that will handle the starter solenoid interrupt but will require the clutch to be depressed to hit the starter. More here: http://www.protowrxs.com/Nolen/Stang/Rebuild/2006-08-13.asp I've also decided to go the hydraulic clutch method for better or worse. Ordered the CNC cylinders which should be in next week. After many measurements and review it appears the master cylinder will fit directly where the clutch linkage/boot would fit and I'll use a heim end to make the connection. Since I do not have a tranny yet I'll make the slave setup later. -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted August 20, 2006 Bump again.. I know this is likely getting boring but here's another update; Installed the hydraulic clutch master cylinder. I am quite happy how it fits with the vertical mounts in the 69. I have a heim joint ordered for the connection to the pedal and drill a new hole but it should work out. Also installed the rear proportioning valve and line lock and routed brake lines for both front and rear. I installed a vacuum canister under the driver fender to insure there is enough vacuum for power brakes with any radical cam I *might* run. More here: http://www.protowrxs.com/Nolen/Stang/Rebuild/2006-08-20.asp Couple pics: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bswor 71 Report post Posted August 20, 2006 Not boring at all, keep updating everyone, its fun to watch the progress of a car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
