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lalojamesliz

157 or 164 tooth flexplate?

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How is this figured out?  I'm trying to figure out what flexplate I need but I don't know if I need the 157 or 164. 

I have a 4r70w for my 351w stroker and it needs to be neutral balanced. I've seen recommendations for a 157 and some for a 164 flexplate.......Thanks guys.

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as far as I know the c4 aod and 4r all use the 164 tooth flex plate. The weight imbalance would depended on the engine application, if your engine is internally balanced then I don't see why u couldn't cut the weight off the stock one that was on the 4r. Now there is a long and short starter snout, there again tho if you have the starter that came with the 4r it should be correct. If u go with a used flex plate be sure it is for the c4 aod or 4r. there are some out there for eod or c6 that just looking at them seem to be the same but has a slight different offset and won't work it will damage the pump.

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My engine is 0 balance so I'll look for one. I just read a post of a guy that ran one that looked fine but the flexplate was too thick or something and it was pushing against the torque converter then ruined his trans.... 

I need to look into that to make sure I don't do the same

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I know some people had trouble with the after market stoker crank where the snout of the converter mates. I would check that ID and depth on all the steps to make sure that yours is same as a stock crank. Other than that when u mate the trans with the engine and u can slide the converter forward and back 3/16 to 1/4 inch u are golden.

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2 hours ago, det0326 said:

I know some people had trouble with the after market stoker crank where the snout of the converter mates. I would check that ID and depth on all the steps to make sure that yours is same as a stock crank. Other than that when u mate the trans with the engine and u can slide the converter forward and back 3/16 to 1/4 inch u are golden.

The converter I have now came with my trans and was used with it.  It even came with a flexplate but I think it's 28oz so I can't use it since I need a neutral weighted one.

Once I find a flexplate I'll try assembling it and check for move like you said.  Thank you

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Just a quick look on the web and found this one. They are out there but because of covid a lot of places are out of stock, I would make sure they have in stock ready to ship. I would not have a problem cutting the weight off the old one that came with the 4r, it is only welded in a few spots in most cases. 

 

https://blueprintengines.com/products/ford-flexplate-164-tooth-steel-external-50oz-imbalance-bppf50164

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So by cutting the weights off they become neutral/0? I thought those also would balance the flywheel like how tires use weights to fix any fitment issues

The flywheel that was on my c4 trans (I-6 250 original engine) has no weights. It's neutral balance?

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what kinda rpm's u planning on running this beast?  If u cut the weight off and not remove any material from flexplate it would have to be as neutral as it could be. That weight is only put on there to counter balance the crank throws. If u are afraid of it tho I would get a 0 balanced one but in the after market world that's no guarantee either. Another solution is cut the weight off and get it balanced by whoever balanced your engine. More money more money never ends does it.  I sure know that feeling. Good luck with your engine.

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My trans is buried in my garage now but later when it could down I'll dig it out and look up the flywheel it has again. 

on a different topic, I never put stickers on my cars. Period.  I have a window sticker that has a wrench and it says built not bought.  That will probably end up on one of my windows when I'm done. At least for a short while ha ha ha

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No, I just had the bare block and took that over to the guys at JGM. They ordered the rotating assembly and I took them the cam. They just built the shortblock.

While searching for this online recently I saw someone say the trans is what determines the flywheel besides the weight requirement..... I keep seeing different answers and that's what confuses me. 

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I dug it out and I did another bone head move some time ago. I must have tossed away the flexplate.  I'm sure it's because it wasn't a neutral balanced flexplate and that's what I need.  

It does have a 10" ptc aode converter though.  I need to call ptc and find out what I can. Maybe they can suggest a flexplate 

20210723_213758.jpg

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Sounds like you want to look at a 1998 or so Mustang 3.8 164 tooth flexplate if you want a stocker but it seems to me with what you have going on you might be better off with an aftermarket and custom SFI approved flexplate.

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36 minutes ago, GypsyR said:

Sounds like you want to look at a 1998 or so Mustang 3.8 164 tooth flexplate if you want a stocker but it seems to me with what you have going on you might be better off with an aftermarket and custom SFI approved flexplate.

I just want to get whatever will work and won't give me fitment issues and not push my converter to far in and destroy my trans.

Should a flexplate from that mustang work? Do you think it can cause any other issues?

Would the converter I have change what flexplate I need?

To be honest,  if I didn't already have a 4r70w and new fpa headers for it I would just go with a manual trans to avoid this headache and just teach my family on how to drive a manual trans. 

My wife told me to stop stressing and just get a manual trans and that she doesn't have to drive it. Then I told her that a new trans will be 5k+ for everything. She stood quite ha ha ha

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22 hours ago, lalojamesliz said:

I just want to get whatever will work and won't give me fitment issues and not push my converter to far in and destroy my trans.

Should a flexplate from that mustang work? Do you think it can cause any other issues?

Would the converter I have change what flexplate I need?

To be honest,  if I didn't already have a 4r70w and new fpa headers for it I would just go with a manual trans to avoid this headache and just teach my family on how to drive a manual trans. 

My wife told me to stop stressing and just get a manual trans and that she doesn't have to drive it. Then I told her that a new trans will be 5k+ for everything. She stood quite ha ha ha

U are making way to much out of this. Buy the neutral balanced 164 tooth  flex plate that  is advertised for the C4 Aod 4R and when u marry the transmission to the engine check the clearance as I posted above and u have no worries.  

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The PAX looks to be your best choice. At least they SAY it fits. All I know is the 3.8 flexplate I mentioned is zero balance from the factory, is the right diameter with the correct number of teeth, and I think has the correct offset. But the only one I actually have on hand is a flywheel for a 3.8, not a flexplate. Though I do have a 157 tooth 5.0 flywheel handy I'm not at all sure the comparison between those two would translate usually into pertinent info for what you need. 

I've personally compared the offsets between an AOD/e/4R70W flexplate and one for a C6/E4OD and found the difference surprising small. You about have to use a micrometer to tell them apart. But that tiny difference very much matters. Trying to say though I can do my best to compare two apples I can't say that what I find will the same for two oranges. In fact I doubt it would.

 

By the way, I had to go to Summit and search up what you bought. When I look it says it would be backordered until mid-October. Link:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pma-pax30210

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34 minutes ago, GypsyR said:

The PAX looks to be your best choice. At least they SAY it fits. All I know is the 3.8 flexplate I mentioned is zero balance from the factory, is the right diameter with the correct number of teeth, and I think has the correct offset. But the only one I actually have on hand is a flywheel for a 3.8, not a flexplate. Though I do have a 157 tooth 5.0 flywheel handy I'm not at all sure the comparison between those two would translate usually into pertinent info for what you need. 

I've personally compared the offsets between an AOD/e/4R70W flexplate and one for a C6/E4OD and found the difference surprising small. You about have to use a micrometer to tell them apart. But that tiny difference very much matters. Trying to say though I can do my best to compare two apples I can't say that what I find will the same for two oranges. In fact I doubt it would.

 

By the way, I had to go to Summit and search up what you bought. When I look it says it would be backordered until mid-October. Link:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pma-pax30210

I saw others but they aren't neutral balanced. What do you think of getting one of those and removing the weight and welds carefully. Do you think it will work?

People have good luck with aod transmissions with this one but it's not neutral.  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pma-pa26467/make/ford#overview 

it has a 2.5mm thick center plate. The other I was looking at also has a 2.5mm center but people were complaining about it cracking.  

the one I ordered has a 4mm I think.  That might be a bad thing since I need all the space I can get but I'll just have to find out

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On 7/24/2021 at 12:52 PM, GypsyR said:

Sounds like you want to look at a 1998 or so Mustang 3.8 164 tooth flexplate if you want a stocker but it seems to me with what you have going on you might be better off with an aftermarket and custom SFI approved flexplate.

GypsyR check your message box please

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