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69RavenConv

D*@3n!* turn signal switch!

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Washed and polished the 'Stang for a little 4th of July cruise today, checked the brakes and lights,  and all systems were go - until I get to the end of my driveway. My wife goes "the steering column is smoking!" At least I was still home so I didn't have to deal with traffic without signals. I'm convinced the Scott Drake unit is crap and I'm not thrilled about dropping another $80 on a new one. This is the 3rd switch I've needed in the last 8 years!

I see NPD has one by an unnamed vendor who is not Scott Drake. It's $30 more but if I never have to replace it again it's worth it.

CJ Pony Parts also has a house brand that's a little cheaper but I suspect it's just a re-branded Scott Drake.

Anybody use either of these alternates? Any other suggestions?

Thanks

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Good advice Midlife and I honestly don't remember if I did that the last time I replaced the switch but I will this time for sure. What is odd is that it has worked flawlessly for about 4 years and I exercised all the signals prior to departing; they worked, then failed . I'm an electrical engineer so I should know what I'm doing (insert laugh track). I'll pull it apart tomorrow and see what smoked.

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Mustangs can take up smoking wires at any time . I drove my 66 fast back for several years with out a problem ,one day it decided that pretty pink wire in the dash looked better black ,i still have a scar on my hand where i reached under the dash and ripped it out still smoking 

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Is the failure mode the rivets melting into the plastic? If so, are you still running 1157 bulbs? Of course its worse if its a Shelby with all the tail lights. Some of those guys are lucky to get a year or two out of the switch. You can lessen the load considerably by switching to LEDs, and have less likelihood that the little rivets in the switch will heat-up and melt into the plastic.

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No, it doesn't appear to be an overload/melting problem, although I still run the incandescent 1157  bulbs on the 4 corners (lots of LEDs elsewhere). There appears to be a slight discoloration under the turn signal stalk so I'm thinking my pre-flight checkout may have been aggressive enough to move a rivet too close to ground. I did not have any insulation there but I will on the new install. I've got a new one on order from NPD but of course I missed all the 4th of July sale prices :)

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May not be the switch after all. Put the new one in and still having trouble. Deduced that the right rear brake light/flasher filament is a problem. Step on the brake (or activate the flasher) and there appears to be excessive current flowing through that conductor, which is routed through the turn signal switch as we know. More to come as I troubleshoot. 

On the bright side, I got to take my steering wheel off and remove my radio, heater controls and flashers looking for problems. Probably shouldn't have washed the car; everything worked great while it was dirty.

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The wiser guys on Mustangsteve.com use an OEM nos switch they find on ebay. Expensive, but worth it they say.

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1 hour ago, RPM said:

The wiser guys on Mustangsteve.com use an OEM nos switch they find on ebay. Expensive, but worth it they say.

I wasn't aware they had a forum- until you got me looking around. I guess that's where you were hanging around for the last week, after Randy crashed this site. We all know he's guilty.

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Ya, like this forum, is got a bunch of friendly knowledgeable guys. I think I found it  ~8 years ago when I was searching for brake info. 

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