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Hello all, I recently decided to re-do my 1969 Gauge Cluster lights (no-tac). I had installed LED lights years ago, and, overtime, I had a few lights that had spotty and intermittent connections and the rattle of the engine combined with LA streets would turn them on and off. Once I pulled the stock PCB (dated Nov 1968!) I saw that the gold/copper "ring" for several of the light sockets were quite worn down and likely the culprit of my one or two flickering lights. ** To clarify, all dash lights work - just one or two goes out occasionally, but a *tap tap* to the cluster will illuminate them again**. I figured a CJPony parts PCB (printed circuit board) would be a nice upgrade and peace of mind for night driving, but, to my surprise, after the install most of the lights stopped working all together! This prompted a thorough check of all connections with a multimeter, and I could find no break in the circuit on the CJPony PCB or the old PCB. I checked my wiring harness, fuse box, and tested that the wiring harness connector is receiving 12V - all good. The only variable that changed is the new PCB, which I promptly took off and re-installed the old one. Then, my well-intentioned, but electrically intermediate brain, decided I will "improve" my light socket connections with a conductive material (aluminum foil) to make up for the worn connections. After taping foil (shiny-side only) around each socket connection and a quick check with the multimeter, I verified all circuits were still operational, and I re-re-installed the old PCB into the car. Unfortunately, my aluminum trick was only partially successful, and I still had some bulbs stay dark and some flicker with movement of the cluster. MY QUESTION(s): Any thoughts/ideas as to why the CJPony PCB barely worked at all? Also, has anyone ever "re-invigorated" the light socket connections with success? Perhaps electrical grease or polishing? For an "incandescent" look, I am using these LED bulbs without any colored diffusers, all of which have been tested and proven to work. Pictures of the old, new, and "improved" old PCB. drive-download-20201127T031547Z-001.zip

So, I lost my tach after switching to an MSD ignition. (That's the first problem). I just went to switch all of my gauge lighting to LED none of the bulbs are working except for the turn signals. I got one gauge light working for a second and then it flickered out. The high beams light worked pretty well, but I changed the circuit board and I can't get it to work again. My clock light on the passenger side alsodoesnt work. My fuel and speedometer gauges and clock still work. Do I need to change the headlight switch? I keep hearing rheostat, but I don't know what or where that is?