Mattmustangman1969

Thanks guys for all the advice... basically what I did was pressure bleed the clutch for about thirty minutes cycling fluid through the system.

Hey guys, I've havn't been on here in a while and i've finally hit a road block with my car... Basically I need some help bleeding my clutch. I have a wilwood 3/4 MC and a mcleod throw-out bearing. i've tried to bleed it normally just pumping and cracking the bleeder. I've tried pressure bleeding it and believe it or not I got pretty close to getting most of the air out, but there still is air in the system and it is causing a loss in travel of the throw out bearing.... so any ideas would be great Thanks Matt

Hey guys I was going throught my extra parts and curious if you guys needed any of this stuff, 1. Moroso fabricated aluminium valve covers for a 351w they already have a baffle welded in one and drilled for a PCV valve in the other... they were on my motor but two of my rocker arms hit the back of the valve cover 2. two different AOD pans, both aluminum and one is +1 quart and the other is +2 quart over stock capacity 3. Original 1969 mustang steering column 4. also a built AOD transmission with torque converter and crossmember, and TCI shifter... 5. Built FMX transmission with shift kit, 6. Set of 15X7 (front) 15X8 rear crager wheel with tires, i'm not sure what there called but there chrome with the five straight spokes... 7. Canton fabricated Oil pan, with seven quart capactiy, for a 351W Most of this stuff has been sitting on the shelf in my shop for about a year, and if you guys are interested let me know with a offer....

Hey guys I went with the .82 overdrive, mainly because it would fulfill the cars purpose better. I didn't put 10,000+ dollars in suspension and brake work to put a fuel efficient overdrive in it, I wanted something that I can use 100% and drive the hell out of the car, So thanks for all your advice, ill post some pics up of it soon.

hey guys, just curious if any of you are running 17x9.5 rear wheels with a 28inch tire. I have already have a 25 inch tire in the back but i want the larger diameter... if so let me know what brand and size they are, I havn't been too lucky in my searches

Hey guys, putting a TKO trans in the car and before I ordered it i wanted to get your opinion of what overdrive gear to get the .82 or .64? Basiclly i have researched the forums and found that some guys like each ratio, So any imput would be great! My car is a built 351w with roller cam, and 3.90s, I was thinking about doing the .64, but then read that Coz wished he went with the .82s, so I don't want to be in the same place...

Thanks for the link, i found that very interesting, its pretty much what mine is doing...

Hey, Interested in a manual brake pedal, w/ clutch pedal...

Hey Guys, havn't been on here a while, but i'm hoping you guys might have some input...Basicly I purchase a "Performance Automatic" AOD from Hawaii Racing in simi valley. The trans has been in the car for about a year, while I was finishing the wiring, and other stuff. so last september I started the car up, and had the TV pressure set on the trans... everything seemed fine, I took it for a cruise and noticed it wouldn't shift into overdrive, I called a friend that worked on transmissions, he couldn't figure it out and called performance automatic, and they said to recheck the TV cable. Then about two weeks ago i took it to a shop locally, he said that the trans is bad and totally needs to be rebuilt... not what i wanted to hear. so I called Performance automatic, and Bill there said "you need to adjust the TV cable, and the trans is fine because it was dyno tested" basically no help at all... I told the trans shop what he said , and then disconnect the TV cable completely and with the lever all the way back it was still making 50-60 psi... So basically where I am at, is that the AOD is brand new, it will shift into gears 1-2-3 but wont shift into over drive, At idle the transmission build 50-60 psi of oil pressure with the cable completely relaxed, two shops locally have tried to figure the problem but come with the same answer that the transmission needs to be completely gone through... I'm at the point where I am going to throw the POS in the ocean, and get a TKO. So if you have any thoughts let me know... Matt

I have a brand new AOD linkage by performance automatic, and a brand new torque converter also built by performance automatic 12", 2500 stall, let me know if your interested, Mattmustangman1969@yahoo.com Matt

Hey, I had a similar problem with the grommets in the doors and door frame, when I purchased my car, the last owner just put some terrible grommets that he bought from a hardware store, and used some electrical tape to fill in around. So i looked for the very grommets you are looking for, and couldn't find them anywhere. They might be sold in a wiring kit, but who wants to spend that much money. What i ended up doing was calling a junk yard a few hours away, and looked for a cougar or mustang, Once i found a yard that had one, they charged $20 bucks for them and to ship them. hope it helps Matt

Hey, I had a similar problem with the grommets in the doors and door frame, when I purchased my car, the last owner just put some terrible grommets that he bought from a hardware store, and used some electrical tape to fill in around. So i looked for the very grommets you are looking for, and couldn't find them anywhere. They might be sold in a wiring kit, but who wants to spend that much money. What i ended up doing was calling a junk yard a few hours away, and looked for a cougar or mustang, Once i found a yard that had one, they charged $20 bucks for them and to ship them. hope it helps Matt

Hey, well I got a voltmeter and checked the sender it was reading 86 ohms at empty and 25 ohms at a full tank. so I went and bought a new sender and checked it out to be safe... it was perfect 73 and 13 ohms, but when I put it in the tank, the gauge would read half a tank, when there isn't any fuel in the tank, so my next questions is could it be the gauge. It is a autometer pro-comp(series) and the gauge is said to be the right ohms (via the part number), just curious if any of you have had this issue. is basicly the next step to buy a few resistors at radio shack and check it through the sender or is there a easier way? Matt

Hey guys, Another issue on my plate.... it seems the AOD trans in my car is having issues hooking up to the stock shifter, and i am still trying to work out the bugs, but i was curious has anyone here mocked up a B&M or Hurst shifter into the mustangs. i have been looking for pics just to get an idea of how big they are and their proportions. i am familiar with the racheting shifters, but i also want it to look some what descent... so if you have any pics of new shifter post them please.... Matt

just a quick question, I am just putting in my new gauge cluster, and so far they all work good, except for the fuel gauge, basicly it has power and grounded, just when ever the key is on, it shows a full tank even tho i only have 8 gallons in it. now is this sort of reading mean a bad sender? Because if my thinking is correct, when i directly ground the sender wire to the frame it show the same reading, so therefore the fuel sender is directly grounding the wiring not using the resistor( or what ever it has) to adjust the level.... does that sound right? Matt