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Everything posted by Nuzzlet

  1. Really? Did you buy the cables aftermarket? The factory ones I thought I have don't fit with the versailles calipers.
  2. I have a 1969 Mustang, 351w mounted to a T5 trans, and aftermarket 4 wheel disc brakes. What options do I have for getting the parking brake to work? What have you guys done to restomod your parking brakes? Currently, I just leave it in gear, but that is far less than ideal. Thanks!
  3. What steering system did you upgrade to?
  4. Thanks! I called and they make a kit that's $1200 said and done. Seems so not worth it, especially considering I'd have to find some sort of exhaust to match it. I gotta be able to find some headers off the shelf or used that fit for under $600
  5. Yes I am. I hear people fit the 302 headers on 351s by dropping the engine almost 2 inches. It might help, I really don't want to go custom. I also heard that the foxbody 5.0 headers clear the floor pan with stock motor mounts. I'm gonna try to find somebody to verify that for me. Thank you!
  6. Just bought: https://www.cjponyparts.com/borgeson-power-steering-upgrade-kit-289-302-351w-1968-1970/p/PSK16/?gclid=CjwKCAiA2O39BRBjEiwApB2Ikpr3Q3oUC-rwY6_r7rG4a9ZSu1l8wWc5vgzKh9TKqFPS8vnoPBT3RhoC07MQAvD_BwE It doesn't fit with the old headers I have. Has anyone here used this power steering box before? What did you do for exhaust on your 351w?
  7. Hi. I was having some weird timing issues with my 351w with a b303 cam in it. I pulled the cap off the distributor and there was a big chunk of magnet flying around, the rotor wiggles, and the vacuum advance doesn't do anything. The trouble is as it is a roller cam it needs a steel gear (I think .531?), however off the shelf distributors for 351s use cast-iron gears. The question is, what distributor would yall recommend? Or should I find a used one / get a rebuild kit and just fix the broken parts leaving my working steel gear and shaft intact? Thank you!
  8. I have a 351w with a roller cam in a 1969 Mustang. Vacuum secondaries. At half throttle everything is great & there is no hesitation. But when I go over about half way there is a stumble right before power kicks in. My best guess is it has something to do with the vacuum secondaries. I'm not really sure though. It doesn't seem to be accelerator pump related. Plus, when I rev the engine in neutral there is no delay or hesitation whatsoever. Any ideas? Thank you!
  9. Hi. So I'm curious what some of you guys have done to light up your brake lights. I'm thinking of switching everything over to LEDs. Any suggestions or advice? Today I bought a pair of 1127 LED bulbs for my break lights. They actually seemed to be slightly darker and give a more orange glow to the tail lights then the old bulbs. This seems like a downgrade to me. Do I need to use different power delivery, or am I buying the wrong light? Thanks for your thoughts and help!
  10. Oh man! Thank you! That looks awesome! Exactly what I am looking for.
  11. Hi! I'm curious to see what kinds of ideas y'all have for center consoles. I no longer need the factory old school seat belt connectors in the console, plus the wood grain is falling off. I want to stick with the woodgrain deluxe interior theme, but I was thinking it would be really awesome to actually have cupholders... The other challenge is how much modification for simple luxury is too far from stock. I'm worried about the quality/stock appearence of some simple center consoles that are out there, so I would love some of your thoughts & opinions. All ideas and input welcome. I've even thought about building my own console, but i found it is really hard to keep with the body lines, plus the original console has lots of tough contours to recreate.
  12. The black plastic thing placed behind the gasket covering that hole there in the middle top of the metering block. Do it need it? The secondarys don't have one.
  13. Firstly, honastly I don't know what the specific model is, I will dig for that though. They are vacume secondaries. I don't know how well you can tell from the pictures but the throttle plates don't seem to be adjusting. I found one screw that only would move a little less than a full turn, didn't want to force it (for the secondaries) and I loosened the stopper on the primary throttle yet the mechanism wouldn't rotate closed any further. Should the throttle plates be perfectly flat and at no angle during idle?
  14. Alright I have the carb apart. All the gaskets look like they need to be replaced. Idk if maybe one of you guys can see something I don't or suggest something. I have pictures in this post. I should also note that turning the idle mix screws all the way does not shut the engine off. Anyone have any ideas? Or should I just go buy a new carb and not deal with it. Thank you!
  15. I'll verify all these things later on. I just let it warm up again and I put an infared temp sensor on each of the cylinders' exhaust outputs. The left half of the engine was between 200 and 250 and the right half was showing around 300 and even 375 on one of them. I immediately shut the car off. Here is a video of the idle before it's warm: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ibmm8eiL5k6ARn5Q7 I hope I'm measuring these temps wrong... This may not have to do with the carb at all
  16. Pretty sure it's what they call the "E" cam from Ford Motorsports. It's a Holley 600 with vacuum secondaries. Edelbrock performer dual plane intake and Duraspark 2 electronic ignition. I hope that is enough, if not ill explore further. Car / engine has basically been sitting for 10+ years and driven occasionally in that time. Don't think it's ever ran right. The manual choke is disconnected, and there is no fast idle. All I've done so far is clean the carb, use some fuel cleaning additive, adjust idle speed, floats, and air fuel mix. Combine the thing ran substantially better and sounds way quieter and smoother than before. The fuel additive actually seemed to make the most audible difference which really surpised me. Thank you for thinking in though, and hopefully I'll get some more responses soon. Appreciate it :)
  17. Hi. So i've been having some issues with my engine running smooth. I recently cleaned the carb and re-tuned the floats and air/fuel mix. It has excellent throttle response and doesn't randomly stall. Problem is, it seems the idle jumps around quite a bit. It fluctuates between 600 and 900 rpm. Occasionally dropping as low as 500, although it has never stalled out. It actually was idling perfectly before it was warm but as it approached temp it started to jump around. Here is a video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/1r2GnW2hwmxB13D4 Note the temp gauge is not currently working. How smooth should the idle be? What can I try to fix it? It has a holly carb and is a manual. One more note, it seems the ventures only squirt to one side of the carb, not both - but it doesn't seem to bog when i step on it. Not sure if it is related. Thank you!
  18. Alright so I installed the CJ voltage converter. Upon simply adjusting the empty and full screws on the sender from min to max I am able to move the girl gauge needle from empty to full. The needle seems to no longer jump around and is consistent when engine running and off in accessory mode. I'm going to remove the probe from the tank and do a full calibration. Sadly I can't take it for a ride nor put a full tank of gas in it as it's going to be a few months before winter is over and I can take it out the garage. Thank you everyone for the help, hopefully I can get this working for summer!
  19. Ok so it has adjusters on it to change how much resistance it creates for different levels of gas. I love in a cold environment half of the year so fuel stabilizer is in there anyway. As for the wiring, that is correct however presumably you would be able to run the 12 volts when you run the wires for speakers/amp which this car has. The sender I believe is working correctly it just doesn't display quite right because of the pulsing 5 volts. We will find out for sure tomorrow.
  20. I was hoping for a simpler solution than what they show. I have a 12 to 5v regulator from Amazon. But then I discovered they make the battery terminal one, do you think there will be a problem with that one? Also it's been connected for years as is using the pulsing 5 volts to the sender. You are suggesting I don't power it on while it's not connected to the send on the gauge and the gauge doesn't have 5 volts or else I'll fry somthing? And no, thank you so much for your time. I appreciate you shedding some electrical knowledge when I simply lack the skill and experience. You've answered more than enough questions. Just wanna make sure nothing blows up.
  21. Yes, so 12 volts from the battery going to the sender is ok? I believe that is how it is wired now. And then it should work when I put all the gauges to constant 5 volts.
  22. Were you using this datasheet: http://www.centroidproducts.com/mustang.pdf? It shows the sender getting 12 volts from the fuse before the 7805 regulator. Either way I am also going to try the 9v battery terminal regulator I got here: https://www.cjponyparts.com/constant-voltage-regulator-1969-1973/p/HW1567/.
  23. Where did you find this? Thank you! Actually I've found a CVR that snaps into the 9 volt terminal on the cluster. But previously I was hoping to use a converter I have laying around, not the 7805. They will be arriving Friday so I'll let you know what happens. Ultimately if I have to buy a new sender I will but this came with the car so I mind as well use it.
  24. Link should be fixed: https://www.cjponyparts.com/constant-voltage-regulator-1969-1973/p/HW1567/ That is what is is, and the 12 to 5 volt regulator I have is actually quite beefy so i will probably end up using it for LED strips, which was actually my original use for it before I discovered an answer to my fuel gauge problem. Thank you for the help, and i'll keep the forum posted when it arrives Friday.
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