ralt962

I have a reverse light housing PN C7ZB-15A509-A Complete housing. Wire was cut off but have a new connector in its place. Will plug into OEM harness. I would hate to toss this part is someone wants and OEM part. Just pay for shipping and its yours.

I'm looking for a nut plate that fits into the trunk hinge for a 69 Sport back. Just discovered that the shop that did the body welding must have lost one of the plates and made their own. Its garbage. You cant just buy the plate, NPD CJs both sell the entire hinge assembly but not the plate. Looking to see if anyone out there has one. thanks

Thanks for the information. Understand my issue now. I had the rear rails replaced and they installed ones that did not have the stay bar attachments included. Nice install on the track bar. My racing days are well passed otherwise that would have been a fun add.

bigmal, thanks, thats interesting. The bar I have is a simple wide U shape. It was clamped to the spring. Unfortunately I don't recall where it was mounted to the body. I've redone so much of the underbody (new trunk and all) that the attachments are no longer there. I assume you bolted to the body near the small step for the rear seat?

Does anyone have pictures of a rear sway bar installation. My car had one but I now have exhaust in the way. Just trying to see what ideas others might have for attachment.

Thank you for the links. No issues with fitting the back end of the lamp through the can? They look pretty large diameter. But so far no issues with their performance?

Has anyone had an recent experience converting to LED healights? Searching the forum brought up some older posts but the technology has changed more recently. Looking at CJ's and NPD there were no reviews listed for their LED headlights. thanks,

Are you talking about the bad that goes across the back of the seat or the side pieces that bridge between the bard and the side trim? I did check the usual sources and didnt find anything. Someone from this site had the end trim parts. Good group of people here. Suggest adding a note to the parts wanted forum.

I just have the base 20" radiator for my 351W. Al heads and about 10.5:1 compression. Last night I did the Dream Cruise traffic jam with temps around 88 deg. Stop and go for an hour and the temp was above mid point but held there. I was impressed it didn't react worse. I was considering the 3 row but so far happy with this. Although I'm not sure I would go there today for the actual Dream Cruise due to the heat.

I installed Willwoods base disc brakes last year. Soooo much better than my old drum drum. Easy to install the brakes. Only difficult part was using a GM proportioning valve. I only had a distribution block but added the GM valve. Had to replum the lines around the master cylinder. Good balance in the brakes and good stopping distance.

If you need a good video on the rebuild check out the WCCC. Its Cougars but the part is the same. Just look up the part and the video is there. He does a great job walking through the rebuild of both parts.

det0326 is right. You want the two angles (diff and trans) to be roughly the same. They will off set the U Joint velocity changes as it rotates. Also check the plan view of the Trans. They can be slightly off creating the same issue in that plane.

Sorry it doesn't say dielectric grease. But it is a Silicone grease. So how ever I put it in must have rubbed off enough to make good contact. But that was the issue and at this point I dont want to touch it. But some time this summer I'll pull it and wipe it down to see if it made a difference. you are absolutely right about non conductive. I'll wait until after the Dream Cruise, or this year the non Dream Cruise. I'm about 40 minutes from there. I'm sure it will be good just no Corp tents.

danno, Mach 1 Driver, and of course Midlife got it right! It was the contacts in the fuse block. To me they looked clean, didnt appear to have rust. But I used wet/dry paper on all contacts plus used dielectric grease. Problem gone. Just took it for a nice ride. NO cut out with turn signals or with the reverse lights. Thank you guys! Makes the cruise that much better! And its still Candy Apple Red!

Great suggestions, I'll go after the cleaning. I would guess that is a high probability. Next would be the connects I made to the radio harness. Crimps are always suspect. But hey the red has to stay.......that car has to be ticket me red. How else would I donate to the local authorities.