Jump to content

Kilizyrag

Members
  • Content Count

    1
  • Joined

  • Last visited


Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    Kilizyrag reacted to stangs-R-me in 1969 Mustang Summit M2008 Series Carburetor Install ...   
    I had started a thread asking about repro O.E. ford 4BBL Throttle Cable Brackets, which started to morph into a thread about modding one to mount on one of these Summit carbs.   Instead of continuing with that thread, I figured it would be best to start clean with a NEW thread on all that needs to be done to install this series of carburetors on a 1969 or 1970 Mustang / Cougar.
    I'm installing the 600 CFM Vacuum Secondary version (M08600VS) on my 1969 mustang with 351W and Offenhauser 360Deg Equa-Flow Dual Plane Intake.   I'd guess the installation would be very similar on any 1969-70 Ford V8 that uses a square hole throttle cable & bracket that mounts to the rear carb studs.
    FIRST STEP ... Modding an O.E. Ford or reproduction 4BBL Throttle Cable Bracket to fit the back end of this carb.   
    In my case, I bought the Clear Zinc Plated '69-70 Boss 302 bracket from NPD (9741-6A).   The  '69-70 302,351 & 390 with 4BBL (NPD 9741-5A) could also be used, but I bought the Boss one because they sell for the same price and it was plated and the other one appears to be bare steel, plus I was hoping maybe it had a little more "drop" in the section that goes under the rear of the carb.
    Well, the Boss 302 bracket only has 1/4" of drop to it and the Summit carb needs at least 11/16" so it needed to be modded to fit.
    The 12/26/20 post in the original thread has pics of how I planned to mod the bracket: '69-70 O.E. 4BBL Carb Accelerator Cable Brackets ... - 1969-70 Technical Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite
    MODDING the BRACKET:
    I cut a 0.83" wide strip of steel out of a RACO 2-Gang Electrical Switch Cover using a 6" Drill Master Cut-Off Saw I bought from Harbor Freight.   Had to put the back stop at the further back position and remove the clamp assembly as the cover was maybe an 1/8" too wide and just held it down by hand.   Had to flip over to finish the cut, as it only went about 80-90% thru.   A larger abrasive chop saw would be able to do in one cut or could also use a band saw.   
    I used an old Holley carb base I had in my carb parts box as a "weld fixture", used a Ryobi 18V 3" cut-Off Saw to cut away the center section after welding the outside welds, then welded the inners after the piece was removed.   A little grinding to clean up my welds then removed from fixture.   
    Cleaned it up with Lacquer Thinner then Wax & Grease Remover and then masked off the ends and painted the center section with cold galvanize paint.
    Mod is pretty much unseen as mounted in the last pic.
    I'll post other steps for this carb installation as new posts.     
    Doug
     
        







  2. Like
    Kilizyrag reacted to RPM in Strud Rod Bushings   
    Solid adjustable rod ends are preferred by many as it keeps the lower control arm where it belongs. Full rubber is too flexible (imo) and (some say) full poly too stiff and might break the strut rod at the threads.
    I've read where one poly half and one rubber half were used on each side for a happy medium. I have rod ends and like them. 
×
×
  • Create New...