69ShelbyGT350H

Its been a while, and COVID has slowed things down a little, but I keep taking her out. The 2020 Ponies in the Smokies event was canceled, as was Mustang Week, but there were still about 1000 of us that ended up at Myrtle Beach. I even had a little fun at Darlington Dragway. And yes, there is a new (07 GT500) Snake in the Pit. Darlington Burnout 1a.mp4

Its been a while, so here are some photos from events and shows.

I know he is working with a Cleveland and posted as such before. I also stated I am not familiar with the Cleveland as I am the Windsor. I am not sure why you have to be concerned with the actual look of the cover when the issue at hand is the leaking seal, and that is all I was trying to point out. But as you seem to know all this better than I do, I will step aside and stop making incorrect comments. Its not the first time you have criticized my comments and I doubt it will be last unless I just stop posting on this forum. So best to all of you!

This one then? I am not familiar with the Cleveland and got the image from google Cleveland search. Guess its not giving proper results, but the damper seal is in the same place. :-)

If its the damper seal that is leaking, your going to have to remove the cover and replace it. If its the oil pan seal, then you can just lower the pan and replace or reseal the gasket.

Yep. One of my mistakes was firing order. The old 280H had the 289/302 firing order and that is what I kept using on the new 280H cam. The engine ran poorly, 4 black plugs 4 white plugs. Exhaust port temps varied greatly. Helps to read the instructions that came with the new cam and the new firing order.

So it sounds like it is assembled correctly. Not sure how you are getting a reading of the timing so far off unless you had the timing light trigger on the wrong wire or the wires are not in the correct firing order. Not sure that re-degreeing your cam is going to do anything for you. When degreeing my cam, I found my pointer is about 4 deg off from 0 on the damper. Got one of those strip timing tapes and put it on so Zero lines up with the marker. It's a Summit harmonic and possible the wrong timing marking on the timing cover, but it all measured out OK thanks to the degree wheel. I have one of those blue 1 piece oil pan gaskets. Really nice but I have to drop the front of the pan to get the timing chain cover to seal with it. I will install the damper before I tighten the cover bolts so I can do a better job centering the damper seal.

Took the Shelby to Cars & Coffee this morning

These are for my 69 Shelby, so you would not have the shoulder harnesses and would have the starburst instead of the snakes. These were restored by Python Restoration. If you do not have core's, they can supply them.

You did not mention where your timing pointer is at with the marks lined up? AT TDC the rotor is pointing at #3? Can you turn it so its pointing at #1? With the motor at TDC, pull the distributor and put it back in so the rotor points to about 12 O'clock looking at it from the front of the car. That should be about where #1 wire is at. If you have a vacuum advance, that should be pointing about 6 O'clock. I know, you might have done it already, but here are some things I can suggest, in a random order that I am thinking of them. Check your wires for proper firing order. Check your cam specs and make sure this is the correct firing order. Make sure the wire tips are still connected to the wires, and that each has a positive connection to both the rotor cap and plug. Pull your plugs and see if they are all a uniform color. Make sure you do not have any intake or carb vacuum leaks. Do you have a vacuum gauge to check the intake manifold vacuum? Check for a non-firing cylinder, check the temp of each exhaust port with a temp gun or water bottle with a small hole in it to create a small stream of water.

Sorry, I have not been following your entire issue, but you said you replaced the cam due to a wiped lifter/lobe? I recently did the same thing but as I was destroying distributor gears. It was determined that the gear on the cam was bad and so I order a replacement CompCams 280H. After installing I could not get the engine to run well at all. 4 clean plugs and 4 black plugs. I checked firing order, valve lash, and yes, even pulled the timing chain cover to see if I had somehow missed a tooth when I put the new gear set on. It was all good. I had purchased my 280H back in the late 80's, and it used a 289/302 firing order. Turns out, the new cam Summit sent me, is also a 280H, but its the 351w/302HO firing order. They made a new version since I had purchased the original and when I asked for the same cam, I guess they assumed I had the newer version and so sent me that. So all I had to do was go back to the 351 firing order and it woke right up. That will not explain your timing mark being so far off unless you have the trigger on the wrong spark plug wire. When installing the gear set, the crank key is usually straight up, as well as the dot on the crank sprocket. If you can pull the harmonic bolt and see the keyway in the crank you can get a pretty good idea if your harmonic balancer has spun or not. Straight up your 0 timing mark should be at your timing pointer. As you know from degreeing the cam, even pulling the valve cover and watching the rockers will not tell you if the cam is a tooth off. But, if its 60 degrees off, you can see by rotating the crank in each direction and noting how far till the intake and exhaust rockers move, that you will be able to see if it really is that far off. I miss my gear drive, but replaced it to see if it was what was causing my distributor gears to fail. It was not the problem.

I'm not even sure the engine would run at all with the cam off that much. 1 tooth would be about 16 deg at the crank, 8 at the cam. Sounds like something else is off.

Advance notice of the Space Coast Mustang Club's 2019 Mustang & Ford show.

A proper one for your 70 would be an Autolite single or dual diaphragm. Guess it makes a difference if you have that heat operated valve by the thermostat or not. https://www.npdlink.com/search/products?search_terms=distributor&top_parent=200001&year=1970

Yes, bolt and big washer go on from the inside of the trunk. Mine did not have a rubber washer. I did have to use my shims as when I changed the angle of the bracket it brought the bumper in too close. https://redshost.com/gt350/images/20161030_143136.jpg https://redshost.com/gt350/images/20161030_153953.jpg https://redshost.com/gt350/images/20161030_214001.jpg

Another option is to go over to http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php and do some searching before asking questions. Make sure you get the right assembly plant as they did not always place them in the same locations. Also, for here, try breaking it down, which decal, where to place it. And do not put the "Caution" sticker on your fan shroud just because they gave you one. :-)

That's why I like these tools. Pistons slide right in.

Exactly, and why just saying "M" code does not fully describe the engine in the car. I no longer have a standard Mach 1. My Shelby does not have the Oil light as they installed a gauge in the center console. Ok, I'm sure the indicator is still there, but it's not used.

Follow up here as well. https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/1157538-oil-warrning-light.html And yes, the non tach cluster seems to have a BELT lamp on the right of the Fuel/Temp gauge.

Edit/Correction, Deluxe only indicates wood grain dash, the standard is the mat black dash. Both have the option of having the Tach or not. Belts lamp is not in the instrument cluster, but on the dash by the ignition switch.

Per my wiring diagrams: Deluxe has a Speedo, Tach, Temp gauge, Fuel gauge. For the lights, it has Oil Pressure Warning lamp, Alt Warning lamp, and Dual Brake Warning lamp. Std dash has Speedo, Ammeter, Fuel gauge, Oil Pressure gauge, Temp gauge. Dual Brake Warning lamp only. Optional dash mounted were Belts lamp, Park lamp. As far as I know, all Mach 1's had Deluxe dashes? Neither a deluxe or std cluster has both an Oil Pressure gauge and Oil Pressure Warning lamp.

Oops, saw the 351M and just went on like it was a 70 when you said 69. Yes, 69 is the 351w, Ford rated at 290 hp. Now I'm losing it, who knows what the 3 lights are under the Tach? One is a brake system warning. Did the deluxe cluster come with an oil pressure gauge and a warning light? I'd think that would take 2 senders. Researching now and will respond with results unless someone else can clarify.

70's came with the 351C (Cleveland) unless it was changed out with a 351M (Modified, long stroke). Yes, your oil light should come on once the key is turned on and will stay on until the engine is running and the oil sender registers oil pressure. I am not sure of the exact lower limit that turns the light on/off. Obviously, the engine should produce oil pressure fairly quickly and 1-2 sec should be normal before the light goes off. You should also note that the light does come on every time the engine is started as a test of the oil pressure warning system.

R12 Freon systems use Mineral Oil or Alkyl Benzene Oil. The oil is not usually red in color, but it is possible that Freon or Oil with a red dye was used to help find leaks easier.

Actually, that is a myth. Though they do not recommend a gear drive with a supercharger.