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aslanefe

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aslanefe last won the day on June 27

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About aslanefe

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    : Mid GA

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  1. I would put in a 1 1/16 MC on it, it should stop the car before pedal goes all the way down.
  2. Pedal movement (for example 5 inches) moves the MC piston a lot less (for example 1 1/4 inches) due to the fulcrum of the pedal. Fulcrum is different between power and non power car pedals. Yes the booster has a straight rod (connection) to MC piston. The diaphragm in the booster converts the vacuum to force and reduces pedal effort needed to press the pedal when you press the pedal. When you release your foot from brake pedal, the vacuum on one side equalizes to other side (if it does not equalize, the brakes will be kept applied). If when the engine is off (and brake was applied a few times to spend the vacuum in the system) and you press the pedal, it should stop higher and with more effort. If the brake pedal goes down more and takes less effort when the engine is running (and providing vacuum to the booster), your booster is doing it's job. I put a booster on my 70 with non-power front disc brake car almost 30 years ago. The MC and brake pedal are for non-power cars and I installed a Fiat booster in between. Brakes work good with minimum pedal effort but full braking power comes on with pedal closer to floor (more pedal travel) compared to my 69 with booster, power MC, and power pedal. If it is 390 car, don't burn it, I'll try to make room in my shop for it while wife is not looking.
  3. The cheap parts are great to cut a section for a patch from. Saves you a few bucks if you do not need the whole piece.
  4. I hear your frustration; that is why I bought a brake pressure gauge that I connect to bleeding ports to test the pressures at each corner individually. On a side not, what year, model, engine etc is the Mustang you are going to burn or sell? As if I need an other Mustang.
  5. Just FYI, as far as I remember front splash shield for 70 is not same as one for 69 but similar, Brian's photo should help you install a 70 shield.
  6. Booster does not affect the pedal height where the brakes stop the car. Booster only reduces the effort your foot excerts on the pedal. MC diameter change changes how far down the pedal goes to stop the car. If your original MC diameter was bigger (let's say it was 1 1/16) and now that you have 1 inch MC, the pedal needs to go down more to move the same amount of fluid to the calipers (and rear cylinders). After you fill the calipers then the pressure in the caliper goes up and stops the car. MC dia goes up, the brake pedal travel goes down but effort goes up. MC dia goes down, the effort goes down but pedal travel goes up. Booster makes the effort go down, but not affect pedal travel. Above is assuming your push rod is adjusted correctly.
  7. If you have smaller diameter master, your pedal will go down more compared to bigger dia master before stopping. Need to know your master diameters (the old/original one and the one you have now).
  8. As I modeled it after the original, I ground the swaged end of the stud that attaches the roller and removed the stud (and broken roller) out. Then drilled a hole in the middle of the stud I removed (the swaged end), threaded the hole and used a screw and 2 washers (one with an inside hole bigger than the diameter of stud, one smaller) to attach the stud back to frame with new roller. The screw and washers are where the swage was. I guess you can use a bolt and nut but you have to make sure the bolt head sinks inside the roller and does not scrape on the channel it runs on. You might be able to find a roller in hardware store which can work (or modified to work). I couldn't, so I made my own. I found the model and can print when I get a chance. If you want 3D printed one, PM me how many you want and your need to have date and we can go from there.
  9. A couple cars i dealt with same issue is that what usually happens is one of the tabs (springy parts on the side of the roller) breaks and creates slop/rocking of the glass and jams while rolling up and down. Slot you see on Kris' photo is also on original rollers to prevent them from rolling so they slide with springy sides always touching the slide. I modeled the roller very close to originals (with springy part etc)If you do not want to follows Kris'DIY, I can look around and see if I can find the 3D file and print for you; won't cost much if I can find the file.
  10. Are you talking about the rollers that are installed with swaged stand off to the glass frame and slide inside the 3 rails? If so, I could not find any reproductions. I had a couple which had the springed edges broken. So I 3D printed a couple from ABS, ground the swaged part of the stand off, drilled a hole through the stand off and tapped it. Installed the 3D printed roller using the modified stand off and a bolt. Have been using them for a few years now and still working (but the rear windows do not get rolled up and down a lot).
  11. Is the starter slow/lugging when the engine is hot and you do a real short stop? If so, your starter may be getting heat soaked. In that case, you need a shield around the starter (or wrap the headers) to keep the heat from headers etc away.
  12. I did not want to cut the doors either; look at my post from 22 April 2021 on "What did you do to/for your Mustang today" thread on where I put front speakers.
  13. Don't know which one is correct, but I would start with 18 (the middle one) and check speedometer reading with GPS then go up or down if needed. At least it is easy to change the gear.
  14. I put a face shield, thick welding gloves and a thick coat to wire brush it, then put "Ospho".
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