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aslanefe last won the day on March 28

aslanefe had the most liked content!

About aslanefe

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    : Mid GA

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  1. As far as I know, head rest that moves up and down was standard on 69.
  2. Shemp, if you have a dremel and burr set, use it to dig the pits like a dentist would clean a cavity and clean all the oxidation; then fill them with body filler or JB weld. Then sand it smooth and prime/paint (or just epoxy primer). That is going to be my back-up plan if I can't braze or weld the pits on my header with kinds of filler materials I have on hand.
  3. Vic, can you post part numbers, suppliers etc of the replacement rivets and other hard to find parts related to the vert top? I started restoring a 70 vert couple weeks ago and can use any info/references you have.
  4. Hi Mike, thanks for your generous offer. Is the clock you have round or rectangle? I believe round ones use Borg, and rectangle ones use General Timing mechanisms In any case I will gladly pay the shipping as the gear I need may be a common part between the two. Let me know how much I owe you.
  5. Looking for non-working "General Timing" clock (not "Borg") mechanism for parts. This is the mechanism found in rectangle clocks. May be some folks converted to quartz clock and still have their old mechanism they don't need in the attic or in a drawer.
  6. I had installed small speakers inside the kick panel vents which still let me use the vents when needed. The small speakers did not sound decent so I decided to increase the speaker size while keeping them functional. So I modified the vents to mount pod I manufactured which holds 5.25" speakers. Now I have bigger speakers and vent is still functional (it does not open all the way, just about half way now). While I was covered in resin, I decided to make a pod that replaces the whole vent and let me mount up to 7" diameter speaker on my 1970 vert. You remove your vent, install this pod which acts like a cabin for your speaker). One for right side, one for left side (which are mirror images of each other). Then decided to see why the clock on the vert was not working; opened it up and found a gear had broken spindle. Does anybody have any old clock mechanism that I can use parts from, may someone who converted to quartz etc? While I was working on the vert, I decided to polish the windshield trim. the one on right is polished, the one on left not yet. As you all know one think leads to another, so while I was at it I decided to take the vert apart and restore it while changing the color back to it's original competition yellow. Looks like it is going to need some (maybe a lot more than some) rust repair/metal replacements. I will be changing it a little bit, will use modern cloth top with glass, will change the upholstery and door panel designs to vinyl/cloth and make them resemble 1980s Recaros.
  7. RPM, those are real clean fingers; that means you neglecting the Mustang and not getting your hands dirty.
  8. With 5.5 degrees of caster, does it come back to straight ahead when you let the wheel loose after a turn or do you have to steer the last 15-30 degrees to go straight? Also, does it hit the stops at the ends of strut rods when you do a full lock, in other words, did you loose any turning radius?
  9. How is the return to center on CPP400 box you are using?
  10. I see 3 69s and a 70 Mustang regularly; anytime I go to my shop :)
  11. aslanefe

    I blame RPM

    Yes, I also say it was RPM.
  12. I welded the minor cracks it had on bolt tabs and it seems to be working fine. If it does not hold up and let go, I'll let you know.
  13. This is what I would do; get some nuts with the correct thread. Then use a small file and make channels inside them like a die would have (basically make a die out of the nut). Then use it as a tap. As the nuts are smaller than a die, they will not hit the sides of the channels.
  14. One advice from me; build more than what you think you need. Built a 54X42 over 10 years ago as my 16x20 shop was getting small; looked like this. Now it looks like this.
  15. As far as I remember, the hose from the power bleeder sticks out a little bit from the adapter/cap. So when you remove the pressure from the bleeder, some fluid moves from master to bleeder and the fluid level in the master drops below the cap level which eliminates spill when adapter is removed from master. But if you remove the adapter while bleeder is still pressurized, you will make a mess.
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