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Mach1 Driver

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Everything posted by Mach1 Driver

  1. We had Fortran and Cobol and big tape drives everywhere. I was the stereotypical nerd with a white shirt, tie, a pocket protector, and a little pocket calculator in there too.
  2. If the other gauges work, then replacing the IVR with an aftermarket replacement won't help, and actually slows down the gauges at start-up. As said previously, if the float isn't full of gas, then bending the float arm or MeterMatch is probably the solution. If you need to buy a new sender go with NPDs best (call them). None of the replacement senders match the OEM according to Rick , the owner of NPD. The following may be of interest:
  3. That's because we have incredibly good taste, and are modest as well.
  4. Maybe you should stick a pink flamingo in your rock pile- in Tucson they won't know what it is and it'll scare em away
  5. sounds nice, good luck
  6. Correct, but that never happens. It took a while for AFR to get it together. For a while they were known for bad springs, but they improved, and now there is no place to go but back down. Investors want a return on their dollar, and that means cost cutting.
  7. Too bad, I intended to go with AFR, but I'll be looking at Trick Flow when engine building time comes. Dang, TF combustion chamber volume is less, gotta look for different pistons now too.
  8. Maybe bigmal will drop by here, or you can send him a message. He also lives down under and has a 70. I have a post here that describes the 70s turn signal system, and he said it helped unscramble the problem. Perhaps he can guide you through what he did. Look in "How to's" for "1970 Mustang Exterior Lights (turn signals)".
  9. I wasn't aware they had a forum- until you got me looking around. I guess that's where you were hanging around for the last week, after Randy crashed this site. We all know he's guilty.
  10. Is the failure mode the rivets melting into the plastic? If so, are you still running 1157 bulbs? Of course its worse if its a Shelby with all the tail lights. Some of those guys are lucky to get a year or two out of the switch. You can lessen the load considerably by switching to LEDs, and have less likelihood that the little rivets in the switch will heat-up and melt into the plastic.
  11. I see the Rust-Oleum even has a professional grade of this stuff that is a 2k epoxy, but it appears to be very textured.
  12. Yes, I like the OpenTracker stuff and will probably go that way- if nothing else, just to keep the car closer to stock. But this is an interesting approach that I haven't seen before and it tweaked my interest. The movement of the lower arm depends on the position of the two pivot points, and they don't appear to be parallel to or align with the upper arm, so they may follow a slight forward- back arc. The intent was to get rid of the strut rods and stabilize the wheel assembly. This video of stock strut rods makes me cringe when the bushing compress, the strut rod flexes and the wheel assembly moves forward and back, but yes adjustable strut rods would eliminate this problem: That's a great link to VMF, thanks
  13. Well those sneaky SOBs !! I just looked at the tach version wire diagram and sure enough there is a resistor, but it doesn't give a resistance value. I assume they used a resistance wire? You may be the only guy on the planet that knows that. However, I checked out a typical 30A 12v Bosch automotive relay. They have a 75 ohm coil and 160ma current draw, with an 8v pull-in and 1.2-5v drop-out. If you put that relay in series with a 15 ohm resistor it still has 10v available for pull-in, and as I mentioned it only needs 8v. So the relay would still work, even on a tach car. Thanks for the info Mid, I'm always learning from you.
  14. This is an alternate to adjustable strut rods. I'm just curious if anyone has tried this kit and how they like it? It has a tubular lower control arm with two pivots. This removes the strut rods and has a 1/4" steel plate for the forward lower pivot, with the stock lower pivot remaining in the rear. You drill out the spot welds for the strut rod brackets and drill holes for the plate, which bolts into place. No welding required. https://www.ebay.com/itm/284107627733?epid=25006561315&hash=item4226225cd5%3Ag%3AozUAAOSwuFxcvgsZ&fits=Year%3A1969|Model%3AMustang|Make%3AFord They install disc brakes and new steering gear in this article too, but steps 14-21 show the mini sub frame kit:https://www.classicperform.com/tech_articles/PDF/ModifiedMustang11-13.pdf
  15. Well that's interesting Mid- I have the ammeter version and am not familiar- what makes the indicator light version unsuitable to run a relay coil?
  16. ?? Yeah I remember reading that somewhere, but I don't see your post in this thread. Have you been using your magical powers again?
  17. Well, I mentioned wire 904 in my previous post. It should still be in the harness, even if the regulator has been removed. That is really the only source for switched power in the engine compartment. See the bottom of the page:
  18. Well, wire 904 Green/red stripe that goes to the regulator plug "stator" pin is live when the ignition is in "start" or "on". Since its only about an 18ga wire, I would connect that to a relay coil and use the N.O. contacts to drive the choke, wired directly from the battery.
  19. Jay, what products did you use; engine primer, caulk, and bed liner? Doesn't bed liner have a rough texture?
  20. D'oh, we all have our Homer moments ;)
  21. I'm just curious what triggers the vacuum motor for a 70. Is it some carb condition? I know there are different setups for different engines, and apparently its used as far back as 68. On a 69 351W there isn't vacuum involved- its strictly controlled by the heat from the exhaust manifold. It is mechanical and there is a thermostat with wax as the internal working medium and a couple of external springs. When it gets hot enough it flips the heat door open for cold intake air. Mine still works after 52 years.
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