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Mach1 Driver

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Mach1 Driver last won the day on July 29

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About Mach1 Driver

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    v8 powered poster

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    I'm a retired engineer who is the original owner of an unmodified 69 Mach1 351w, H code with an FMX. It was a daily driver for many years and now that I'm retired I intend to restore the car of my youth.

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  1. This may be more detail than you want or need, but it is sure to have information you can't get elsewhere. The attached Word file describes how to test all the electrical parts of the instrument panel (for a non-tach version). 69-70 instrument gauge cluster3.docx
  2. We had Fortran and Cobol and big tape drives everywhere. I was the stereotypical nerd with a white shirt, tie, a pocket protector, and a little pocket calculator in there too.
  3. f the other gauges work, then replacing the IVR with an aftermarket replacement won't help, and actually slows down the gauges at start-up. As said previously, if the float isn't full of gas, then bending the float arm or MeterMatch is probably the solution. If you need to buy a new sender go with NPDs best (call them). None of the replacement senders match the OEM according to Rick , the owner of NPD. The following may be of interest: Edit: I removed the diagram and data from below, because with further testing done today, I found that both the OEM and aftermarket IVRs bring the gauges up to their operating ranges in about the same time. That was unexpected given the higher voltage for the OEM version just after start-up. What I found interesting was that the aftermarket IVR gave lower values when on high- about two needle widths lower. This may take a bit more investigation, because the OEM version of the IVR was outputting 5v continuous on high, but I'm not yet certain if the aftermarket IVR got loaded down and dropped it's output when on high, because it was also 5v ...when on low.
  4. That's because we have incredibly good taste, and are modest as well.
  5. Maybe you should stick a pink flamingo in your rock pile- in Tucson they won't know what it is and it'll scare em away
  6. sounds nice, good luck
  7. Correct, but that never happens. It took a while for AFR to get it together. For a while they were known for bad springs, but they improved, and now there is no place to go but back down. Investors want a return on their dollar, and that means cost cutting.
  8. Too bad, I intended to go with AFR, but I'll be looking at Trick Flow when engine building time comes. Dang, TF combustion chamber volume is less, gotta look for different pistons now too.
  9. Maybe bigmal will drop by here, or you can send him a message. He also lives down under and has a 70. I have a post here that describes the 70s turn signal system, and he said it helped unscramble the problem. Perhaps he can guide you through what he did. Look in "How to's" for "1970 Mustang Exterior Lights (turn signals)".
  10. I wasn't aware they had a forum- until you got me looking around. I guess that's where you were hanging around for the last week, after Randy crashed this site. We all know he's guilty.
  11. Is the failure mode the rivets melting into the plastic? If so, are you still running 1157 bulbs? Of course its worse if its a Shelby with all the tail lights. Some of those guys are lucky to get a year or two out of the switch. You can lessen the load considerably by switching to LEDs, and have less likelihood that the little rivets in the switch will heat-up and melt into the plastic.
  12. I see the Rust-Oleum even has a professional grade of this stuff that is a 2k epoxy, but it appears to be very textured.
  13. Yes, I like the OpenTracker stuff and will probably go that way- if nothing else, just to keep the car closer to stock. But this is an interesting approach that I haven't seen before and it tweaked my interest. The movement of the lower arm depends on the position of the two pivot points, and they don't appear to be parallel to or align with the upper arm, so they may follow a slight forward- back arc. The intent was to get rid of the strut rods and stabilize the wheel assembly. This video of stock strut rods makes me cringe when the bushing compress, the strut rod flexes and the wheel assembly moves forward and back, but yes adjustable strut rods would eliminate this problem: That's a great link to VMF, thanks
  14. Well those sneaky SOBs !! I just looked at the tach version wire diagram and sure enough there is a resistor, but it doesn't give a resistance value. I assume they used a resistance wire? You may be the only guy on the planet that knows that. However, I checked out a typical 30A 12v Bosch automotive relay. They have a 75 ohm coil and 160ma current draw, with an 8v pull-in and 1.2-5v drop-out. If you put that relay in series with a 15 ohm resistor it still has 10v available for pull-in, and as I mentioned it only needs 8v. So the relay would still work, even on a tach car. Thanks for the info Mid, I'm always learning from you.
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