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10yearsgone

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10yearsgone last won the day on February 25 2015

10yearsgone had the most liked content!

About 10yearsgone

  • Rank
    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 01/07/1973

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Chicago - NW burbs
  • Interests
    fishing

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  • Biography
    married, 2 kids, 2 dogs
  • Location
    Huntley, IL
  • Interests
    fishing, football, baseball, movies, beer
  • Occupation
    systems administrator

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  1. Thank you both for the detail and thoughts. I'm curious to see the percentage change from the original specs.
  2. So thanks to other postings I was able to get the actual alignment specs (1/4 positive caster, 3/4 positive camber, 3/16 toe in). I went by a sears automotive shop the other day to discuss alignment with them, While their system works on degrees is was accurate to the specs I listed. Here is the question: The tech told me this was "era specific" and not what is common in today's world even given the stock steering, suspension, etc. present on my vehicle. I don't profess any knowledge in this area (or many areas for that matter), but the response seemed a bit odd to me. I would think the specs are the specs and unless you are tailoring the handling to a specific purpose, it wouldn't change. Any wisdom here? I don't plan to emulate Fast and Furious, just a cruiser and maybe lite strip with my Cleveland power train.
  3. Just went through using both the exterior and interior kit. Well worth the money, but know going in they are incomplete. Everything that was supposed to be there and quantities seemed accurate, but relying on the kit to be all that you will need is going to lead you to disappointment. Had a few different weekends end in frustration when the screws I needed weren't in the kit. For example the door frame weather-strip channel (if I remember correctly).
  4. There is a ½†hole on the tunnel side front corner of some standard bucket seats, on the frame horizontally no cutting required. A standard hardware switch would fit perfectly
  5. The new door jam weatherstrip at the top of the door (see picture) is constantly jumping out of the track when the door shuts/rubs. Seems like a bit excessive pressure at the door striker and release button as well. The door/fender lines are pretty decent so I can't adjust much more at the hinges. Weatherstrip adhesive isn't strong enough. Could cut some back or screw it down. Just wondering if this is common issue and what others had done or if the WS flattens a bit over time.
  6. I talked to the guy who installed the windshield. He went to Ford and discussed with them. They call it a GM style mount and directed us to a 2001 Ford Explorer rear view mirror. Slight difference is that it uses a spring clip as opposed to a set screw. Aside from that it looks the same. I did a search on google for "2001 Ford Explorer rear view mirror" and it returned a CJ Pony hit on a 94-98 coupe: 6U5Z-17700-A I'm not seeing it in person as the car and mirrors are at the shop I work on it at so I'll look this weekend, but from what I have been told (and looking at the 2 on CJ's site) I'm not seeing a design/shape difference with C8AZ-17700-A I also do have the original mirror (M3523A) I purchased not realizing the mount would already be on the windshield. Slight variation in look from the others above, but if you have the arm from the 6U5Z-17700-A, the ball and socket design would seem to be interchangeable.
  7. I saw a few old posts about where to mount and luxury mirrors, but nothing that quite answers the issue I'm having. The new windshield came with a mount on it. I'd like to go with a mirror design that looks original but that will work with the mount already on the windshield. I purchased a Scott Drake - C8AZ-17700-A, but the female mount that came with the mirror is slightly more narrow (perhaps even tapered) than the male on the windshield and it will not slide down more that 1/2 way. This seems rather silly, but I've looked around for step-down adapters or even a new ball & socket style arm that I can replace the Scott Drake one with. I'm struggling here. Anyone know what the "standard" windshield mount is? Is there a sizing for theses things? I see a "14" on the mount that came with the windshield. Or if there is an alternative mirror that still looks original, but will slide down on the upside down U style windshield plate.
  8. I also had a Shock Tower thumbnail show up on my reply to "Let's talk undercoating"
  9. I've done most of my restoration thru CJ because of the website and what I saw were the cheapest prices. About a year ago that stopped and the "free shipping" became very apparent in their pricing. What really troubled me with it though is that at virtually the same time they started using USPS as well and the shipping has been abysmal since. What used to take 3 days now takes 5 or 6. They provide no definition for what qualifies for UPS. So unless you pay for UPS ground, free shipping is subject to the shipping department's discretion. So I ask, well can you call down to the shipping department and have them provide some framework that your customers can use.. Yeah right, they make it seem like it's 2 unique companies and they can't be talked to. When pressed their response is "it's free shipping dude pay for UPS Ground." Here is the kicker... UPS (and FedEx) started outsourcing deliveries to USPS. So even when you pay for UPS Ground it can still go to USPS at UPS's discretion and yes you guessed it.. 5 day shipping without any criteria other than Murphy "the more quickly you need it, the slower it will come". CJ also has multiple UPS pick-ups during the day, a mid-afternoon and an evening. Order in the morning and in stock, it goes out in the afternoon shipment which cuts a day off the shipment. Unfortunately this isn't consistent either and yes no one can answer why. The mythical beast known as the shipping department can't be asked that either. If you are looking for a vendor look elsewhere. 12 months ago I would have told you different. Shall I continue... Customer service, product knowledge, 60 day return policy... The list of my beefs is pretty long. Blood Pressure rising, I'll save for another day/thread.
  10. I delivered mine on the rotisserie to a local shop that does powder coating. They did the sandblasting and powder coating for $1200. I had planned on sandblasting myself and using POR15, but for the cost differential on rental and media for the blaster, this was a good alternative. All of my suspension parts, driveshaft, pedal assemblies are all POR15 (agree with Coz.. awesome stuff). Inside the fender and shock tower area as well as the rear wheel wells we sprayed Sem Rock-it-liner. Inside we used Silent Running (like Lizard Skin) spray sound deadener and thermal coating. The Silent Running is paintable and you can use it as undercoating as well, but it's not as durable as bedliner.
  11. What do you mean by looking correct? What is off on them? I saw a set of dynacorns on CJ. I bought chrome ones made by Vintage Wheels and they rusted badly within 3 years while sitting in the garage (of course they wouldn't warranty) so aluminum really interests me.
  12. I'll look over the wiring diagram again this weekend. Appreciate all the feedback.
  13. just did this a few weeks back so the detail is fresh. my metal tray was uncut so we used the middle opening on the metal tray and the spacer ring included with the 6x9s as the template to determine what we had to cut. Lined it up and traced the opening. Used an air cut off tool (I think a jig saw w/a metal blade would work if you could hold it down good). Once we cleaned up the holes and got the speaker to fit well, we drilled 4 small pilot holes for the speaker screws, then line up the insulation and cut out at least as wide maybe up to an inch larger diameter than the speaker opening. Completely re-mounted the metal tray, insulation, and uncut fiberglass package tray for proper alignment (this includes the metal trim cap behind the backseat to hold the tray in position). Drill straight up from the trunk through the pilot holes into the fiberglass tray itself and trace the opening from the metal tray to the back side. Take it all off again, cut the fiberglass out. I used a Roto Zip with a fiberglass bit and it worked really well and controllable. If the speaker fits flush and the screw holes all line up then hook up your wires through the openings and lay your speaker on the package tray. Screw down from the top into the pilot holes of the metal tray not too tight, barely starting to compress the insulation. Put the grills on and your done... Not the greatest picture but should be good enough
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