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1969_Mach1

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About 1969_Mach1

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  • Birthday 02/21/1965

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  1. I'd hang on to the press. You can do more with it than you think, and not just axle bearings. If you rebuild your own differential, it's needed, manual trans, it's needed, a simple distributor gear change or removal and installation, it's needed. Need to dimple a piece of thin wall tubing or thin sheet metal, the press can do it with a little creative setup. It will also straighten or bend thick steel pieces. Need to modify an air cleaner base so it drops down a little more, you can do that with the hydraulic press. Want to change out some rubber suspension bushings, the press is needed or at least makes the job much easier. So there are many uses for it, not just axle bearings.
  2. You might need to get away from a stock style starter and move to a permanent magnet gear reduction starter. They're smaller in size so are less prone to heat soak from close proximity to headers. Powermaster usually offers several options.
  3. Yeah, it doesn't sound good. I think I'd look for something else if I were in the market for cylinder heads.
  4. I installed Moser Engineering axles in my 1969 Mach 1. I like them, no issues. However, make certain you get axles with the access hole for the retainer plate nuts otherwise it's more difficult to install and remove them. Also, just my preference, but I don't like the C-shape retainer plates aftermarket axles come with. They are made of a thick material, but the stock style seem better.
  5. That would be my first option as well. If there is no success finding an OEM booster, maybe a different set of valve covers. The Ford Racing valve covers are fairly large. Also, think about later down the road if the booster or master cylinder needs to be removed when putting together the combination of parts. Getting to the spark plugs will probably be fun with those tall valve covers. I had Ford Racing tall valve covers on my 351W. Everything fit okay but I got tired of the struggle to get to some of the spark plugs. I switched to short valve covers. They clear the roller rockers and spark plugs are much easier to reach.
  6. Have you removed the hold down clamp and looked closely at the dist. housing where the clamp contacts? There might be some kind of indentation in the housing from the clamp which is why tightening the nut moves the timing. Also, like aslanefe mentioned, 6 deg. BTDC base timing is usually not enough for small block Ford's. Most start at 10 deg. BTDC as long as that doesn't created too much total timing, then adjust from there as needed.
  7. Glad you got those removed. In the end, those were the wrong clips for that application. For that application, I've always seem internal snap rings with an eye (small hole) at each end for use of snap ring pliers.
  8. On my 1969 Mach1, 351W I use the Weiand 8023 with a 1/2" tall phenolic carburetor spacer. With stock motor mounts, an aluminum Moroso drop base air cleaner with 3" tall filter has almost 1/2" clearance to the stock hood (no shaker). I did trim the air cleaner base slightly, about 1/8", to drop it a little more. Without the carb spacer it would fit much better. So far, the air cleaner hasn't yet touched the hood. The shape of the air cleaner top makes a significant difference for hood clearance. A stock air cleaner or the K&N style of air cleaner top type might not fit. Another think to keep in mind, some drop base air cleaners do not clear electric choke assemblies.
  9. I installed the 5-leaf mid-eye rear leaf springs from Mustangs Plus a long time ago (about 1996) and haven't had any issues with them. The car is rarely driven, but they have been fine. If you want stock ride height springs I think you will be shocked on how high the ride height is regardless of who makes them. Many have a first thought there is something wrong with the spring, but these cars had a fairly tall ride height in stock form.
  10. Those valve covers are worth a fair amount of money. The originals are sought after for anybody with a Y-block motor. And they are rare and extremely hard to get these days.
  11. When I did the conversion on my 1969 Mach 1 a long time ago, I kind of "eyeballed" it using the clutch rod then noticed a dimple in the firewall where is looked like the rod should pass through. Maybe I got lucky, drilled the hole to fit the rubber boot using the dimple for the center and it worked.
  12. In 1969 the Ford shifter was being used. In 1970 Ford used a Hurst Competition Plus shifter. However, it sounds like somebody installed the wrong Hurst shifter in your car. I installed a Hurst Competition Plus shifter in my 1969 Mach1 and it fits just fine, no odd interference anywhere.
  13. I'm looking at mechanical fuel pumps for a 390 in another project of mine. The specs for stock pumps give a minimum flow rate of 25 GPH at 500 engine RPM. Aftermarket performance pumps like Edelbrock or Holley only give a maximum flow rate spec. Before spending $160 and up for an aftermarket pump I have some questions. 1) Motor is mild and will make roughly 400 hp. I know 25 GPH is too low for that, but that is an idle spec for the stock pump. Will the stock pump flow much more at higher engine RPM? 2) Is there a stock pump that flows more than 25 gph? If so what is the application? Thanks
  14. In my experience Valvoline oils tend to leak more than most others. Try a different oil. I've had good luck with basic Sta-Lube GL4 rated gear oil. I just replaced it again this last weekend and refilled with Pen Grade GL4 rated gear oil. I'll see how that works after driving it a bit. If the trans is out of the car, I'd also vent the trans through the original top plate. It seems to be a more direct path for venting the trans than through the rear bearing then the vent installed in the tail shaft. When the top plate gasket is installed correctly the vent hole in it is no where near the vent hole in the top plate.
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