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Everything posted by barnett468

  1. Ok, one way to determine if it has a flat lobe is to remove the rocker arms then check the amount of lift each lobe has by measuring how much the push rod moves up and down when you rotate the engine. Another way is to remove the intake and look at them.
  2. With the horns disconnected, you should get the exact same reading as you do when you touch both ends of the meter together. You can also put power from the battery to the horn wire with both horns connected and see if both honk.
  3. Need more info. Were you breaking in a new cam? Is it a roller cam? A flat lobe will typically cause a ticking sound. Free spinning push rods doesn't mean it does not have a flat lobe etc.
  4. If it has an auto trans, you will probably quickly turn it into scrap metal if you add horsepower to the engine and start driving it hard unless the trans has been properly rebuilt and is still working properly. Also, changing gear ratios is the best bang for the buck to improve performance. Do a compression test with a good battery and the throttle propped open. Let the engine rotate 5 revolutions for each cylinder test. Does it have white smoke billowing out the exhaust when you accelerate hard? How many miles are on it? How often do you plan to drive it?
  5. Yeah, you can just leave the cables loose enough that you can take them.off without having to loosen the nut.
  6. If the shift shaft is leaking, the valve body needs to be removed to change the seal but it's not complicated. Also, the bolt holes in the pan are sometimes warped from people over tightening them, but they can be straightened, or you can get a new steel or aluminum one.
  7. Here's the method I use for flat tappet and roller cam engines. 1. Use Joe Gibbs 30w Break In Oil 2. Remove thermostat. 3. Retighten all hose clamps 4. Use straight water in cooling system. 5. Spin oil pump drive counter clockwise with a big drill for 30 seconds. 6. Rotate crank 1/2 turn and spin oil pump for 5 seconds. 7. Rotate crank 1/2 turn and spin oil pump for 5 seconds. 8. Rotate crank 1/2 turn and spin oil pump for 5 seconds. 9.Reinstall distributor. 10. Remove all plug wire except for number 1. 11. Remove vacuum line from distributor and leave it off and plug the vacuum fitting. 12. Connect timing lite and have someone turn the engine over, or jump it at the solenoid, and set timing to 8 degrees btdc. 13. Look inside carb and open throttle to insure the carb is squirting gas. 14. Place a fan on a stool etc in front of the radiator so it is blowing on the rad. 15. Put on some protective goggles. 16. Have someone start the car while you work the throttle. Once it starts, immediately rev it to around 2000 - 2500 rpm and set the idle screw to keep it there. If you have a choke, you can monitor it to make sure it eventually opens or you can disconnect it and operate it by hand for a minute or 2 until the engine warms up slightly, then leave it open. Monitor the engine rpm and keep it the same, because it will rev higher after a couple minutes, then it may rev a little higher agai after 5 or 10 minutes. 16. Let it run for 25 minutes. 13. If the carb is squirting gas, have someone start the engine, and
  8. All spray can paint is crap. Catalyzed paint is the most durable. You may also have a paint reaction spraying some paints over the existing crappy paint, so you will have to try a small area first.
  9. Unfortunately, guessing isn't going to help.
  10. xlnt,...you are doing a great job! If this virus lasts long enough, you should have your car fully restored by the time it's gone!
  11. The thick spring is supposed to stay in its original location and you should use the original thick spring. The original thin spring was the one I wanted you to replace with one of your new, thin, silver or blue springs.
  12. Oh there's definitely more than one way the thingy can go in, and they even have books on the subject.
  13. In the example below, the mechanical rotor/advance unit is positioned in the 15L slot. This will provide more advance than the 10L slot. This rotor unit can be removed and rotated 180 degrees so it will then be in the 10L slot.
  14. No. Unfortunately that is common with some mfg's, where they make a part that will fit one specific year or group of years, but can either also be made to fit other years, and they will include those "other" years in their description, or it won't fit "other" years and they simply assumed it would etc. In fact, a 69/70 tank will also bolt right into all the earlier Mustangs as well, ad vise versa. The only way to find out if they knew about the difference is to email them and ask them. I seriously doubt that at this point in time, they are not aware of the difference, and that they should note it in their application info, ie "This tank will also fit a 69, but require the use of a 70 filler tube.", etc.
  15. These are not results. These are just the steps of the test. I need to know exactly what the engine did as far as changing rpm and running smoothly or running rough when you advanced the timing. The purpose is to run as much advance as the engine will tolerate. If the engine does not have enough timing, the engine rpm will increase as the advance increases until the engine gets as much advance as it should have. Once the engine has as much advance as it should have, the rpm will either not increase much more if you continue to advance the timing, or the rpm will not increase at all, or the engine will start to run a little rough. The higher vacuum at idle suggests that it did not have enough timing at idle if the engine rpm is the same at idle as it was before the test. If this is the csse, it is good, however, it still needs to be determined if the engine has enough advance at around 2000 to 2500 rpm or too much advance at that rpm, or just the right amount of advance at that rpm. Typically, it should have around 30 degrees of total advance at around 2500 rpm. If it only has 20, I can guarantee you it will run better at high rpm with more advance. If it needs more advance at high rpm, you will need to check the position of the rotor in the distributor. There are 2 different positions it can be placed in. One position gives it more advance at high rpm only . Neither position will affect the amount of timing it has at idle. Basically, you can set the engine rpm to around 2200 to 2500 rpm, then start advabcing the timing until the rpm stops increasing very.much as you give it more advance. In other words the rpm may increase by 300 if you give it 4 more degrees of advance but may only increase by 100 if you keep turning the distributor to give it another 4 degrees of advance. When this happens, it shows that 4 more degrees of advance is what it wants and 8 degrees of of advance is a little too much. If you try this method, do it a few times, meaning that you leave the engine running, and retard the timing after each time after you advance the distributor until the engine finally no longer increases much in rpm. Basically slowly twist the distributor back and forth until you think it runs the best, then tell us how much advance it has.at high rpm and at idle. This info will tell us what you need to do with the distributor. Also, again you changed the wrong spring.
  16. 1. Every guy that wants a performance car, likes to have light weight parts, however, there are some instances, where it is more prudent to go with stock, heavy parts that are guaranteed not to fail, instead of the newest fancy, ultra light weight ones, which definitely have a potential to fail, especial where suspension is concerned. If you install a light with hood and it flies off the car at 60 miles an hour, you can still drive the car, however, if you install light weight suspension springs and one of them breaks, not only can you no longer drive the car, it can also cause damage to the car and quite possibly cause you to crash into something or someone. Also, I guarantee you with 110% certainty, that you will not be able to feel a noticeable difference in the suspension feel between a steel spring and a composite one, and the lighter springs will not lower your 1/4 mile t one tiny bit. 2. Xlnt, choice, and glad you looked into it a bit more. 3. Don't forget to consider reinforcing the upper shock mount hole due to the stiffer shocks and springs, and if your shock pushes thru the hole, it will be much harder to repair.
  17. I just posted about the fuses, lol. No need to switch to a different box, and that is way too much unnecessary cost and labor. If you simply clean the tabs on the box that are corroded, it will work for many years if you live in an area that is dry like the Desert, and if you live where it is humid or are near the ocean, you can put a little Dielectric grease on the tabs with a Q Tip or small tip screw driver after you clean them, and this will help protect them from the humidity. The Dielectric grease is available at most auto parts stores, and is a silicone base, and is hard to wash off your hands or other surfaces it gets on. Also, avoid getting it on any painted surface.
  18. 1. I'm glad it has improved, so you are saying that it no longer stalls when it is hot and it also now restarts easily when it is hot? 2. I wanted you to remove the THIN spring in your distributor, not the thick one. Even though your car has improved, your timing "curve" is probably not as good as it could be, and an incorrect timing curve can cause the engine to run hotter than it otherwise would, and cause it to have less power than it should, and will cause it to get worse mileage. 3. What was the results of the timing test I posted? 4. That's very good, and is a noticeable improvement. A typical engine with a stock camshaft, should have around a minimum of 18 hg. Does your engine have a performance camshaft? 5. Remove the fuses that are for the clock and lighter and see if the tabs in the fuse block that holds them are rusty. This is the first place to look because they often are after 40 years, and if they get rusty, they can cause odd problems. You can clean the tabs with a small sharp pick or a small bit on a dreme tool etc.
  19. I will believe that when see an independent dyno test.
  20. You can remove the trans cover on the front of the trans then you may be able to use a small telescoping mirror to see if the rear seal on the engine is leaking. You can use the same mirror to look at the top of the trans. Auto parts stores sell them cheap.
  21. http://www.mustang-village.com/ or Mustang Salvage in Orange, California (714) 997-2000 .
  22. Ok, you can have that tig welded by a good welder. They will grind enough material away so they will have a gap to fill that is pie shaped. Now, here's the problem, it should not have broken in the first place, so this suggests there is another problem somewhere, ad it should be found, otherwise the same thing can happen. Also, after that small piece is welded back on, that area will need to be reinforced, or it will crack again. There are a few different ways to do this and 2 of them are listed below. 1. Have the welder make 2 straps around 5/8" long and around 1/4" narrower than the bracket then bend these pieces to conform to the 2 areas they welded, then place them so they are 1/2 way onto the broken off piece and half way onto the larger piece and bend them so they conform to the shape of the metal then weld them. 2. Weld around a 1/4" thick aluminum "washer" to the sides of that piece after it is repaired, however, this will require the use of a longer pin, which might be hard to find.
  23. can't you just re-weld the bracket? can you post a photo of the offending item?
  24. Why do you want composite springs? You still haven't mentioned how you will be using the car. Also, as one person states on the vintage mustang forum, it is possible for those composite springs to crack, so I for one wouldn't use them, especially because steel springs have worked just fine on all vehicles ever since they first started making them over 100 years ago, and I have never seen a single one break yet. I have zero experience with composite springs, however, 150 lb spring is a 150 lb spring as far as the amount of resistance it will offer, and that resistance is supposed to be linear if it is a single rate spring and not a dual rate spring, however, the speed at which they compress and/or rebound will not be exactly the same, which can sometimes mean that you might need to use a slightly different spring rate when switching from steel springs to titanium or composite springs, but this rate difference is typically not more than around 20% at the extreme outside and is more commonly around 10%. As far as not needing traction aids with the composite springs, I am confident that none of these people did a back to back test with and without traction bars, therefore, if that is the case, then they are making an inaccurate, or incomplete claim, meaning they may be getting better traction with the composite springs over their previous steel springs, but they can't say with certainty that it is because their new springs are composite, or because they are simply stiffer than their previous steel springs, or because their composite springs have "anti wrap" qualities etc. It is always best to take anything you read or hear in cases like this, with a grain (and sometimes a pound) of salt, and do some research and ask a lot of questions, and if the people making extraordinary claims about how a part made improvements to their car, and do not have reasonable sounding explanation as to how and why their car is better with the new X, Y or Z parts they installed, I would be skeptical. Many people simply get the "Placebo" affect, thinking that because they just spent $1200.00 on a fancy new carb etc, that their car suddenly has 200 more hp. .
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